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just completed birfield repack

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by 97cruiser, Jan 30, 2004.

  1. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    1. I broke a bolt on the knuckle seal with the felt, rubber, metal ring (tightened to 43 ft./lb instead of 43 in./lb ) :doh:. It's the one below where the 2 retaining plates meet, anyways I can't get it out and was wondering how big an issue this might be.

    2. Im thinking I didn't get the rotors cleaned up well enough. On my test drive I noticed a significant lack of braking power. I originally just wiped them down with a rag but upon returning from my test drive (about 2 miles) I sprayed the rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner. Any other tips?

    3. On my test drive I put it in 4low and did some sharp turns, anyhow, when I put it back into 4high (drive) it took a few tries to get the ABS and center diff light to turn off. I could tell it was not in low but it may still have been locked. Any ideas?

    4. I was not able to get a wheel bearing preload of 6-12.6 when torqued to 43 lbs. on the DS . It's currently torqued at about 40 lbs. with about a 12 lb. pull. the passenger side is torqued at the fsm specified 48 lbs. with about 12.5 lb. pull . they are both tight, no play at all. Should this be ok? I used amsoil multi purpose which I noticed was way thicker than what the dealer had used just recently. I assume this amsoil will be more durable and just needs to break-in a 'lil bit?

    All And all it was alot easier than I anticipated. Getting the hub back on the spindle was a bit of a bear, took a few attempts, don't know why. Thanks to all for the great information you all have posted on this Awsome site. I never would have attempted this project without this site.



    :cheers: Vince
     
  2. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    Sounds like you've F'd it up pretty good!

    :D just kiddin, I couldn't tell you, but hope it's all good. Congrats.

    How long? Full two day-er?

    Later,
    R2.

    P.S. - Now it's time to tackle that retainer arch leak..ehh?
     
  3. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    One more question. What does 43 in./lbs convert to in ft./lbs. ?
     
  4. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    R2, Now that I have an fsm I will check into that retainer arch, but my leak is soo small I doubt I will tackle it anytime soon.
    Ya it took me two 8hr.days, that's for a full rebuild. Didn't take the birf's apart but replaced all bearings while I was in there.

    Vince
     
  5. syrinxstar

    syrinxstar

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    [quote author=97cruiser link=board=2;threadid=10821;start=msg97206#msg97206 date=1075523351]
    One more question. What does 43 in./lbs convert to in ft./lbs. ?
    [/quote]

    There are 12 inches in a foot so 43 divided by 12 will give you 3.6 ft/lbs.

    You torqued the bolt 12x more than it was designed for so not too surprising that it gave -

    No one on this list is going to tell you its okay to leave a headless bolt in your knuckle assy so you're best heading off to the hardware store and getting the right tools so you can get it out. Trust me, the next vibration/shimmy/pull/squeak/squeal/crack/clank, you'll be wondering whether it's decapitation you've left behind.

    I haven't done the birf repack though so you're ahead of me and I don't doubt that I'll be posting a similar note when I finish and there's still two bolts and a circlip left in the kit. :D

    :cheers:
     
  6. Pitbull

    Pitbull

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    You sound better than me. Back in 1966 when I rebuilt a 1958 Thunderbird, I had extra parts left over after the engine rebuild. It ran really good with fewer parts :)
     
  7. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    Syrinxstar, That conversion sounds good to me and is what I was thinking but wanted to make sure before I fooked anything else up

    Vince
     
  8. Wayne

    Wayne Bought by His blood, kept by His power

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    Vince,

    You probably already know this, but one method for removing the broken bolt would be to drill a hole down the center for the broken piece. Then, using a hammer, easy out and a pair of vise grips....... drive the easy out into the hole using the hammer, then lock the vise grips onto the end of the easy out. Slowly apply torque to break the bolt free and remove it. Sometimes, tapping on the end of the easy out with the hammer while applying torque with the vise grips will help break it free..... now, get out there an attack that bolt........ :D

    Wayne S :cheers:
     
  9. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Fortunately, you don't have to disassemble anything to mess with that bolt. You can just get under there and unbolt the seals and push them away enough to work I believe. You'll lose proper sealing of that area, and a rainy day or dirt road travel may contaminate the seal area leading to short life. Forget about submerging it, of course. I'd shoot it with PB Blaster each day for several leading up to the day you go for it and you'll triple your chances of success. It's not rusted in place, but this oil is designed to penetrate and that's the lube you'll need. When you drill, it's worth it to buy a new sharp bit for a couple bucks to again up your chance of success and ensure the bit doesn't wander.

    After all your work (nice job, BTW), it would be a shame not to spend another hour getting that thing out and installing a fresh bolt, eh?

    DougM
     
  10. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    <Didn't take the birf's apart but replaced all bearings while I was in there.>
    Why??
    Now you need to do it all over again. While you have it apart you can get the bolt out.
    I don't know why one would take all the time and not get all the old grease out and get new grease in the birfield.
    Usualy when I do something for the first time I end up having to do it over at least once if not more. Lest see... I did this for the tranny drop, rear bearings. It will be three times. The breather was plugged when I packed them and I found out after the fact. So I am sure gear oil is in the bearing again.
     
  11. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    Landtoy80, From what I've read here and elsewhere, it is not really necessary to dismantle the Birf. Sounded like a real PIA so I cleaned it as best I could. Started with castrol degreaser but wasn't happy with it's performance so I grabbed some kerosene I had on hand (much better). Repeated with kerosene then soap and hot water then kerosene again then soap and hot water. Let dry then took a hair dryer to it just to make sure it was dry. There may have been a lil grease left in there but not much.

    Vince
     
  12. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    I did the same, fully immersing my birfs in gasoline overnight after 15 minutes of agitating them. Did the same in the morning, then they dried all day and night before I assembled the next day (was also doing rears).

    Doug
     
  13. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Well... It can be a pain to get them apart but maybe one could get enough grease in joint but... If you are going to do a good job, do it all and not skimp by skipping a step. There is a easy was to remove the joint somewhere on this board.
     
  14. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    Next time I will most likely take them apart, now that I have one repack under my belt. It really is a straight forward job even for a newb. One thing that concerns me a bit is that when I have the truck up on jackstands and spin the PS wheel I hear a lil click click everytime the lil toyota emblem on the center cap makes a full rotation. It happens every time at the same spot...Hmm my gut feeling is its the birfield. It did this before and after the repack.

    I excercised the 4low again and the lights and everything return to normal now on the 1st attempt. The brakes are also working fine now after a lil blast of brake cleaner.

    As for the broken bolt, well I could not get it out after trying with an easy out and drilling. I aventually pounded an aluminum bolt with some loctite into it to hold me over until I can get it to a shop. When I pulled the bottom half of the seal I could definately see where an extra amount of grease was getting through the weak spot. What a pisser.

    Vince
     
  15. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Speaking of not doing a good knuckle gob, I was at the store tonight and a newer 4Runner was parked in a stall like other cars but the front end right side was on the ground. The tire was turned sidewasy like a broken tierod end. One a closer look the bolts that holds the IFS together worked its way out. The CV was hanging out axle. The tierod was the only thing holding the tire on.
    It has IL dealer plates on it. Must of been a auction vehicle. The guy/gal was lucky it happened turning into a stall at the store and not going 80+mph on the hyw like most fibs drive at.
     
  16. Scamper

    Scamper

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    Vince,

    I too broke off one of those pesky little bolts, only mine went when I was taking it out (it was pretty well frozen in there). Ended up drilling and tapping to a slightly larger size.

    I would think that if you're careful, you can retap it in place once you drill it out. I would pump some extra grease (just one or two pumps) into the knuckle once you have the hole drilled so that the pressure will push out any small bits of metal that got inside.

    Too bad you didn't break it when it was on the bench...much easier to deal with.

    Tom
     
  17. Safado

    Safado

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    [quote author=97cruiser link=board=2;threadid=10821;start=msg97194#msg97194 date=1075521629]

    4. I was not able to get a wheel bearing preload of 6-12.6 when torqued to 43 lbs. on the DS . It's currently torqued at about 40 lbs. with about a 12 lb. pull. the passenger side is torqued at the fsm specified 48 lbs. with about 12.5 lb. pull . they are both tight, no play at all. Should this be ok? I used amsoil multi purpose which I noticed was way thicker than what the dealer had used just recently. I assume this amsoil will be more durable and just needs to break-in a 'lil bit?

    [/quote]

    Uhh...Just checking here, but didn't he screw the pooch on #4 too. The preload is set by the adjusting nut and should only be finger tight, or around 43 in/lbs. Then you should put on the locking nut @ 43 ft/lbs and ensure that the preload is still set between 6 and 12 lbs. If so, lock down the tabs and go, if not, then start over again with the adjusting nut. From your description I thing you put the adjusting nut on way too tight. That might explain why you couldn't get the preload low enough. I personally had to tighten the adjusting nut a bit to get in the range, but no where near 43 ft/lbs. You'll wear your bearings out faster that way.
     
  18. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    >> From your description I thing you put the adjusting nut on way too tight. <<

    Agreed, unless we're misunderstanding what was stated.

    -B-
     
  19. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    HOLY CRAP!!!!, Safado you are exactly correct my adjusting nut is set at about 43 ft./lbs. as I type. I have put about 15 city miles on and 15 hwy miles on since the repack. Do you guys think the bearings are ok? I will fixt it as soon as I am done typing. Man, I haven't felt this STUPID in a looong time.

    Thank you Safado, I owe you a big one, :beer:

    Vince
     
  20. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Vince I wouldn't be too concerned.