Jumper cable quick disconnect locations
- Thread starter 85badger
- Start date
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mounted to the ARB bumper or in the front grill (with a black anderson connector) would be good as well.
Id prefer to mount it in the grill so it is a little more discrete and closer to the battery, but its probably much easier and sturdier on the bumper.
For all the pro's of the anderson connector jumpers, unless you have another short end to plug into it, it is totally useless for taking to another location on the trail or being used to series batteries for a ready welder.
JMO
Id prefer to mount it in the grill so it is a little more discrete and closer to the battery, but its probably much easier and sturdier on the bumper.
For all the pro's of the anderson connector jumpers, unless you have another short end to plug into it, it is totally useless for taking to another location on the trail or being used to series batteries for a ready welder.
JMO
I've used Anderson connectors on a lot of things over the years, but I would not use them on jumper cables. You can't transfer the cables to any other rig/car without them. They will only work on YOUR rig. On the other hand, that could be a good thing!!
Anything you want to know about doing this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/234463-how-worlds-most-expensive-jumper-cables.html
- Thread starter
- #6
NLXTACY said:exactly! No one asks to borrow my cables and no one bothers to steal my cables
Thanks! I searched but did get anythin.! I like your set up and will continue reading thru the thread, although I think I'll take a more simplistic approach than you! I'm confused already, not much of a sparky!
I use mine many times as well. Its an easy build.... NLXTACY has a wire diagram that simplifies everything. I had mine made up my Wrangler NW..
Couple pictures here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/598813-anderson-plug-jumper-cables.html
Post #4
Couple pictures here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/598813-anderson-plug-jumper-cables.html
Post #4
- Thread starter
- #10
I finished mine, short and sweet. I routed mine from the battery to the disconnect, no fancy stuff for this one. I went to Airgas and bought the hammer crimper ($17), got 60" of 2# cable with metal ends at Tractor Supply, cut it in half, added the lugs using the crimper, mounted the disconnect on the ARB. I then cut off the clamps on an old set of jumper cables, soldered the lugs to them and VIOLA!
Cool mod.
- Thread starter
- #12
I spent $22 at TSC, $17 at Airgas, I can't remember how much the disconnects were (had them for years) maybe $50, so for less than $100 you can have one too!
Now I need to find a cover to keep the connections clean.
Now I need to find a cover to keep the connections clean.
FWIW Wrangler NW sells the handle for the connection on the cable end. Makes it easy to connect and disconnect.
Nice setup
Love those things, we have those connectors on the service truck at work ant it really makes jumping a dead truck on the side of the road a lot easier. Great mod
Here is my setup...well out of harms way. Only catch is having to relocate your AC dryer.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/598813-anderson-plug-jumper-cables.html
Steve
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/598813-anderson-plug-jumper-cables.html
Steve
I forgot to mention, the ones on the service truck come out of the grill and at the service box, have no covers for weather protection and have no issues with corrosion. The only reason I could see to "protect" the plug would be for dirt, mud or trail damage. Behind the buper or the pic of the one mounted on the bumper would probably be ok.
Been trying to work out the best way to do something like this with my 80 (both to jump-start it and to jump-start other vehicles from it), and I'm fairly convinced that having an external Anderson port isn't ideal unless it has some kind of phsyical protection (like a big metal piece) that clamps it down.
I would prefer to have something mounted directly on top of the start battery so that the bonnet/hood must be opened to access it, though a lot people would be frightened of that who do not work on their own vehicle.
The other thing to think about is a big-arse fuse. With SB175 Andersons my empircal mind suggests I'd need at least a 250 amp fuse, and to do it 100 percent what about a big-arse isolator switch so that a lead can be connected *without* the connection 'live' to the battery (so there's no arcing)...
That would make it hard to have my above-mentioned idea (connector at battery) workable with physical space available though.
The other question is what colour Andersons, and I don't care for the colour but for the interlocking function that prevents different colours cross-connecting. Given it's meant to be a rugged solution, standard grey would be easiest but is it the most suitable?
I would prefer to have something mounted directly on top of the start battery so that the bonnet/hood must be opened to access it, though a lot people would be frightened of that who do not work on their own vehicle.
The other thing to think about is a big-arse fuse. With SB175 Andersons my empircal mind suggests I'd need at least a 250 amp fuse, and to do it 100 percent what about a big-arse isolator switch so that a lead can be connected *without* the connection 'live' to the battery (so there's no arcing)...
That would make it hard to have my above-mentioned idea (connector at battery) workable with physical space available though.
The other question is what colour Andersons, and I don't care for the colour but for the interlocking function that prevents different colours cross-connecting. Given it's meant to be a rugged solution, standard grey would be easiest but is it the most suitable?