Builds July 1976 FJ40 rebuilding/modifying/fabricating/cool pic thread

[Robs76fj40]

RE: Michigan rust. I saw my first FJ40 in real life when I was in high school, in Midland, Michigan in about 1981-1982. It had ambulance doors, but already had a grapefruit-sized rust hole in the rear fender and was rusty all over. At this point, this truck couldn't have been more than 7-8 years old. It was vehicles like the FJ40 that gave Toyota the reputation it had in Michigan for being rust buckets.

Small world... Midland is but a stone's throw from me.

 

[Robs76fj40]

Well..its been a minute or two since my last post... So I suppose updates are in order. I nearly gave up on this truck. I walked away for months and months. Around last November if I remember correctly I had the tub mounted to a rotisserie, I had, or at least thought I had, all the brackets mounted and braces welded in( used some 1" square tube). Well what was actually the case was several parts were actually in a bind and not really that tight, so when I cut out the front floor pan the cowl fold into the rear bed floor and my day ended quite badly that day... I was pissed, crushed, deflated, confused as to what happened.. all of it. Figured that was that, turned off the lights to the shop and walked into the house.

Well this spring my wife and I came out to take stock and be honest with the situation. With a clear, objective head I started looking it over. My wife asked how I would I fix something like this in the foundry where I work (I'm a Journeyman Millwright with over 24 years experience). She said you can't just quit there, so look at it like you have to fix it. So I did, and I think I needed that kick in the ass to clear my head and get my mind moving in a positive, forward direction. So I ordered a new body mount kit and started by mounting the cowl and front sheet metal, as that is still all OEM. I hung the front doors next and the 3/4 tub and worked from there to set the striker plate/catch for the front door. I also mounted the hard top sides and door bows front and back. It was a long slow process and looking back at it now, these steps I took to fix this should have been blindingly obvious to me, but I beat myself up for not double checking myself on the rotisserie fiasco and got into a rut that took someone smarter than me to point out what I was doing and to stop it.

This past two weeks have been pretty awesome and huge in terms of making progress. The front floor pan is welded in and I'm down to fixing things here and there to finalize the tub rebuild. 4 months ago I didn't even have an inkling that I would be here now. But that goes to show negative thinking can torpedo a project. This is a massive undertaking ( I think anyway) for a home builder/enthusiast. So I'm going to stop blathering about and set out to post some pictures, because they're always better than reading some dude carrying on... Get out in the shop and get something done, every day, no matter how small. Little by little, step by step. Have a great day

 

[Robs76fj40]

 

[Robs76fj40]

 

[Robs76fj40]

 

[Robs76fj40]

Well okay then, there are a few pictures.. I also built a pretty bitchin cart for all of my Vice-grip clamps. I'll dig up some pictures of that and post as well... carry on

 

[Robs76fj40]

My project today is this main “beam” that I made out of 14ga galvanized sheet. It’s all the beef! Taking more adjustment that I had hoped, but it will be spotted in shortly. Little by little, step by step.

 

[mtquivr]

I built my own rain gutter assembly from 14ga galvanized sheet,built my own corner pieces and welded it all together. I'm beyond happy with the results. I'll have get out and get pictures soon.

Rain gutter build would be interesting. I remember reading on a foreign forum, where someone built their rain gutter using stainless steel rectangular tubing. He cut it offset, lengthwise to get two pieces, and constructed the rain gutter.

 

[Robs76fj40]

Rain gutter build would be interesting. I remember reading on a foreign forum, where someone built their rain gutter using stainless steel rectangular tubing. He cut it offset, lengthwise to get two pieces, and constructed the rain gutter.

The side pieces weren't all that hard, just making accurate holes for the top. The corners however, those took some effort. I end up making a top and bottom "clamp plate" out of some scrap 1" plate, clamp the sheet between and hammer forming with a 3 lbs cross peen and moving down to 24 oz. ballpeen then trying to finish as best as I could with a smaller ball peen that I polished the face on. Still I think it was worth it because I plan on this being my DD and I live in Michigan, so lots of snow, salt and rain... That being said, stainless steel would be cooler... maybe next time.

 

[rickpaw]

Looking good

 

[Robs76fj40]

Test fit for the last time, I think it’s time to weld. Need to suit up and get ready to eat lots of galvanize sparks!! Fun times..

 

[Robs76fj40]

Well, that’s another big job off the check list and boy oh boy I couldn’t be happier with the results! This is really starting to get fun again and I’m excited to come out to the shop to work and sweat. Pretty soon I’ll have to get ready to do bodywork and paint!

 

[middlecalf]

Do you mind sharing a bit on your welding technique and approach, especially on the sheet metal? You clearly know what you’re doing. Incredible!

 

[Robs76fj40]

Do you mind sharing a bit on your welding technique and approach, especially on the sheet metal? You clearly know what you’re doing. Incredible!

I appreciate the kind words. The biggest thing is to not be afraid of the puddle. Make your fit up tight and try your best to get into a position where you can see your puddle. For all the welding I’ve been doing the last few days my machine has been set at about 16.3 volts, around 200 ipm wire speed and I’m using C25 gas at 15scfh or just under, which for me is colder than I normally run. Especially when I’m doing tacks, I’ll run around 19 volts and 300 ipm because I can get good penetration and fill up the hole quick, minimizing my heat effect zone. But that can be too much for some of the longer runs, so I set at 16/200 area. I think or get the impression anyway from looking at peoples posts and pictures that a lot of people struggle with sheet metal welding because they’re moving too fast and the machine is too cold because they’re worried about blow through. You have to let the weld puddle form and the toes wet in properly to have a good bead. The rest is practice. I’ve been welding for almost 25 years now and learned to weld 16-14 ga sheet with a stick welder...

 

[Robs76fj40]

Also I forgot to add, weldingtipsandtricks.com and weld.com are two AMAZING welding resources on youtube. I watch both all the time. Jody on weldingtipsandtricks is a great teacher and a super guy in general. His videos offer something to learn for anyone at any level of welding experience. Check them out, you'll be happy. One other thing I forgot about is cleaning the metal to clean bright metal. The dark blue-ish "millscale" its called that is present on a lot of sheetmetal actually metal close to 1,000* hotter than clean sheet... it sucks to grind off and be careful to not grind away too much metal, but especially for a novice welder it is vital for getting good results. "Hot rolled steel" mill scale is a monster, "Cold rolled steel" is minimal but the oil on cold roll is messy and a pain. Practice, practice, practice!

 

[Robs76fj40]

I posted up so many pictures yesterday that I forgot to mention the patch panel I made to replace the factory fuel tank sump. So I’m kinda proud of this because I actually made a die and stamped this myself on a 300 ton screw press where I work. I’m super happy with how it turned out

 

[rickpaw]

Thanks for posting the pictures. They'll be super helpful when I start on my rusty tub.

 

[Robs76fj40]

Thanks for posting the pictures. They'll be super helpful when I start on my rusty tub.

Most of the replacement panels came from CoolCruisers, and I’m really happy with appearance and fitment. Initially I pulled the tube from the frame to do the floor sections, I think it would be easier to get the alignment right with the tub still on the frame. Though there are a few areas of spot welds that I couldn’t reach with the tub on the frame so those will need to be addressed once I pull the tub to start body work and paint. Plan on rust easily being 5 times worse than you think or can see. I bought a spot weld cutter bit with replaceable broaches. Blair is US made and far better than the off shore junk floating around, plus you can get different sized broaches for their arbor. Worth it.

 

[SteveH]

I'm torn as to whether to compliment you more on your welding skills or your fab skills. You are really going after it. Great work and world-class photos. Nice recovery after the rotisserie fold-up event. Many would have just ditched the project right there. You must have a few neighbors who think you're nuts, right?

 

[Robs76fj40]

I'm torn as to whether to compliment you more on your welding skills or your fab skills. You are really going after it. Great work and world-class photos. Nice recovery after the rotisserie fold-up event. Many would have just ditched the project right there. You must have a few neighbors who think you're nuts, right?

Funny thing, my neighbor who’s property butts up to my driveway and shop(actually at 22’x28’ garage) asked me what I did for a living right after I moved in and when I told him I was a Millwright, he said “Awe s***” lol.. his dad was a Millwright at the same plant, apparently out reputation precedes us. He’s cool and I try to be respectful of not being too noisy too early or late in the day. Seriously though thank you for the compliments, very appreciated.