JT's FJ40 build

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Inside the tub prepped for lining and a little Jrob fab in the driver floor pan...long day on the wire wheel:

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What you gonna line it with?
 
Check out Durabak. Lots of good reviews!
 
Screw durabak....rust bullet and top coat to match blue!


How many wire wheels did that take! I burned through 2 and you did a way more thorough job!
 
Shush this is gonna be a truck that actually wheels! Rust Bullet then Durabak.
 
Going to try Rust-Oleum's bed liner product.

Multiple layers of clothing...no bleeding.

According to Nolen, I'm fairly sure that prettying up the interior with matching blue paint would violate the spirit of the build...plain black rough ass bed liner material it is.
 
Looking good JT!
 
Going to try Rust-Oleum's bed liner product.

Multiple layers of clothing...no bleeding.

According to Nolen, I'm fairly sure that prettying up the interior with matching blue paint would violate the spirit of the build...plain black rough ass bed liner material it is.

I have to agree with Nolen ... Damnit:)

I did the Durabak thing and it looked great at first but didn't wear well over the years. Plain black Herculiner with at least two good coats.
 
no way you would match paint anyway.

I used Herculiner on the zuk and it lasted 4 years or so before it flaked. BUT for the amount of prep i put into it ( just roughed up rust free surface with sand paper) I am very pleased with outcome. I do miss the blue floor though. when ever i drop something it seemed like it went into an abyss. i could find anything against the blue floor.. even contacts for the eyes!
 
4x4 Labs Saginaw frame plates...lots of random pics of the mock up and install process.


Since the frame gets fully boxed with this kit, recovery hook nuts have to be 'captured' first:

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The instructions call for a 3" hole saw, but Jrob made quick work of all the cutting with the plasma:

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The 4x4 Labs steering shaft kit...pieces shown in order from gear box input shaft connection on the left to factory column connection on the right (pics for posterity in case replacement parts are needed in the future):

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One more:

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Jrob did all the real work here; I just showed up with the parts, a sketchy plan, and a couple of bookmarked threads that documented previous installs. I offered to help with the welding, so he threw some scrap on the work table, gave me a 5 minute tutorial, and let me weld for the first time. After seeing these results he promptly reclaimed possession of the welder and got back to work:

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I'm pretty sure he was thinking "I don't wanna have to fix yo s*** on the trail one day." I'll find something a little less critical to practice on...maybe the cage.

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I'm sure many will not agree with this opinion..., but I used to have 3 turn Saginaw box when I had small 36" tires and SUA on FJ40 axles. It was very nice to drive on the street and I never had any issues with the on the trail. I'm sure I would NOT like a 4.25 turn box if you were planning on driving it much on the street.
 
I much prefer the Scout/FJ60/F150 style conversion myself but it Lola like y'all are doing a fine job. Another vote for sending the box off to have it ported now. You will be wanting hydro assist.
 
Beat the first spring pack apart waiting for the bed liner to dry...they need some attention:

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Plan is to hit them with the wire wheel, beat or burn the bushings out, re-drill the military leaf so it can be flipped, paint them, and put some slip plate on them before reassembly. These are 60 series springs, so the center pin is 10mm. I plan to go back with a grade 8 (or metric equivalent) socket cap screw. Any thoughts/opinions on whether to go back with a 10mm cap screw vs. drilling the holes out to 7/16"? I'm thinking availability options should one break and I don't have a spare.

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