Javelinadave's 1997 Series 95 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Thanks mate,

Have you any problems with Phoenix pollution zone with EGR absent ?
No emissions on old diesels but I still have my EGR in place. Your experience will dictate if I pull mine.
 
Just checked with ADOT and if a car is over 20 or so years old it is exempt emissions testing. Make sure to pull your intake manifold off when you block off Egr. It will be covered in soot so give the intake a good clean and you will only have some light oil in there and not soot.
 
The EGR delete does mean you have to remove the smooth shutdown waste gate and vacuum hoses but its not too bad with it off.
 
You can also just do the ball bearing mod. Stuff a tight fitting ball bearing into the tube that acuates the valve... only costs ~ $ 0.30
 
Stopped by the local Toyota dealer today to order new CVs. I asked about getting a new key programmed and the old school service writer opened up my key and said I don’t have an immobilizer. They cut a regular key and it started, no issues. Guessing the JDM trucks lack this feature.
I cut extra keys at the machine in Home depot
 
Installed a JBL Nano Pro powered sub woofer under the passenger seat today. Amazing difference with my sound system.
Sub Woofer Link
 
Productive day today. Installed a 2" receiver hitch off of a Gen 3 4Runner. It needed a small mod with a cutoff wheel so the fuel tank skid would fit over it and I replace the bottom cushion foam on the drivers seat. I bought the foam on Ebay and used a set of $10 hog ring pliers off of Amazon. It was a much easier job than I had anticipated. Not a single swear word was muttered. 😂
 
Have you played with the boost on the turbo yet? 14 PSI should be a sweet spot when it comes to extra heat. I wonder what HP gains would be with these intercooled ones getting 140HP factory. 180 to 200 would help with overtaking. You just have to install a boost T.
 
Have you played with the boost on the turbo yet? 14 PSI should be a sweet spot when it comes to extra heat. I wonder what HP gains would be with these intercooled ones getting 140HP factory. 180 to 200 would help with overtaking. You just have to install a boost T.
I haven’t touched it nor do I plan to. I arrived here after almost 30 years of Land Rovers. The 1KZ has a ton more pep and HP than the Rover diesel lumps.
 
I haven’t touched it nor do I plan to. I arrived here after almost 30 years of Land Rovers. The 1KZ has a ton more pep and HP than the Rover diesel lumps.
Growing up in Ireland I am curious if you are talking about the 200/300 TDI put in the defender 110 or the diesel lumps in the series 3 trucks.
You could get a factory turbo on series 3 but it only gave 19HP more. I will properly do EGR delete when it arrives in Aug. Does PHX still want these tested? I thought they had us government emissions exemption.
 
Growing up in Ireland I am curious if you are talking about the 200/300 TDI put in the defender 110 or the diesel lumps in the series 3 trucks.
You could get a factory turbo on series 3 but it only gave 19HP more. I will properly do EGR delete when it arrives in Aug. Does PHX still want these tested? I thought they had us government emissions exemption.
Both 200 and 300Tdi motors. I have a love/hate relationship with LR trucks. Since coming over to the Yota world I’m not feeling any more hate.
As far as emissions it’s hit or miss depending on the testing station. If you tag it as a classic vehicle then you skip the emissions requirement.
 
Installed these bulbs in my gauge pod this morning. What a difference and a 2 minute job. I could hardly read the gauges beforehand. If you have not used LED bulb before they are polarity sensitive. If they don't light up, rotate the holder 180 degrees and reinstall. View attachment 3184413
I did this! Thank you, Dave! Hardest part was getting the old bulbs out of the twist sockets. Thought they might break. Altimeter is fairly static down here on the coast but the compass is nice to see!
 

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