Jancy 7" Slugger Saw

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Yep, another new fab toy. I got this for a song with case, two new mild steel blades, one new SS blade, and a used mild steel blade.

This thing cuts 3/16" and 1/4" plate smooth as butter..

Anyone use one of these steel saws before? This is my first one.. If so, any things I should look out for?

J

 

[KLF]

That's pretty cool. I have a cordless version of that, made by Makita, for their 18V LXT batteries. Works awesome, I have cut 1/4" plate with it. The cuts look like they were milled, almost no cleanup work involved. Blades are kinda pricy though.

 

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I looked and with my discount at the welding supply is 23.00 a blade. Not too bad. I read that if you don't apply too much pressure and let the saw feed itself the blades last longer and cut faster...

Believe me. I'll try it...

J

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

That's pretty cool. I have a cordless version of that, made by Makita, for their 18V LXT batteries. Works awesome, I have cut 1/4" plate with it. The cuts look like they were milled, almost no cleanup work involved. Blades are kinda pricy though.[/QUOTE


X2, I love my cordless Makita. I let Spresso use it once and I believe he bought one as well.

 

[Trollhole]

Alright who is going to explain where all the sparks go? How does it work? Looks really cool.

 

[Jetboy]

Alright who is going to explain where all the sparks go? How does it work? Looks really cool.

Shouldn't make any sparks. If it's cutting properly it's cutting much like a drill in steel. It's actually cutting the steel rather than abrading it. You know your blade is shot when you see any sparks. Generally the steel should still be cool to the touch after cutting.

Usually there is a chip capture bin built into the saw. I have the Milwaulke version of that saw with an 8" blade. My dad has actually built a 12" version out of a 12" Makita that he built a new foot and sled along with a long straight clamp on guide for it. Works awesome for making very accurate cuts in sheet metal, or projects like cutting a bit off a web on a 40' piece of channel. Odd uses, but it really is a slick saw, cuts really fast.

Anyway, shouldn't have sparks if it's working well.

 

[Jetboy]

You should be very careful to keep constant pressure, but not too much pressure. The blades are expensive and one screwup will ruin the blade. The easiest way to ruin a blade is to hit hardened steel, or to run it too fast. You also can ruin a blade by having it catch on a piece of something light. Don't try to cut something small like 1/2" by 1/2" by 1/8" angle. The teeth will catch the material and jam, often breaking off a tooth or two.

I also have a Evolution Rage 3 dry cut saw (same idea) in a 10" compound miter. I LOVE it. I'm making sliders out of rectangular tube. Yesterday I cut two pieces of 2x2x1/8 and two pieces of 2x4x1/8" tube in one pass all to exactly the same length. - basically a 2"x12" cut in steel with a saw I can fold up and carry by hand like any other miter saw. Plus it does compound angles. Like the idea, wish the saw was twice as expensive and twice as good of quality.

I use a different type blade for thin small steel. I ruined a $50 blade trying to cut some little angle. The blade for thing stuff has raker teeth like a chainsaw. Looks like this:

 

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Shouldn't make any sparks. If it's cutting properly it's cutting much like a drill in steel. It's actually cutting the steel rather than abrading it. You know your blade is shot when you see any sparks. Generally the steel should still be cool to the touch after cutting.

Usually there is a chip capture bin built into the saw. I have the Milwaulke version of that saw with an 8" blade. My dad has actually built a 12" version out of a 12" Makita that he built a new foot and sled along with a long straight clamp on guide for it. Works awesome for making very accurate cuts in sheet metal, or projects like cutting a bit off a web on a 40' piece of channel. Odd uses, but it really is a slick saw, cuts really fast.

Anyway, shouldn't have sparks if it's working well.

M, Like Jetboy is saying.. No sparks and it cuts the metal instead of abrading it. Light pressure, let the saw feed itself is the concept. This is my first time to own one of these but, the last 7" blade I used lasted quite awhile on a friends Milwaukee saw/Slugger blade setup.. Built 3 bumpers and a 6 x 16 utility trailer. Almost every cut we made was with that one blade. I think my friend got through part of another project before he changed it out. Compare that to abrasive blades..... This is why I purchased one for myself.

1st pic is the cuttings, approx. 1/16" +/-a little in size.
2nd pic that I'm pointing at is the chip collector.
3rd pic is the collector opened up.

I don't know how to do a video and post it or I would. This saw cuts thru 1/4" plate easily and leaves a very nice edge.

Here's a video I found on youtube.

Weldstar Demo Days - Jancy Demonstration - YouTube

 

[KLF]

My Makita flings a lot of chips, don't even think of using it without safety goggles and gloves, but no sparks. It takes a few cuts to get the hang of it, the rate of cut is dependant on thickness, of course. You get a feel for how fast to go eventually.

My first project was my rear bumper, I had to notch the 4x2 box tube for the license plate, and I also used it to cut the 3/8" mounts.

Prepping to cut:

After cutting the notch:

 

[Trollhole]

Very cool. Have never seen a saw like this. Does it spin as fast as a traditional wood rip saw?

 

[KLF]

Specs on the Makita BCS550 saw is 3600 rpm. Blade is 5-3/8" diameter.

 

[Waorani]

When I first saw this thread, I wanted one and found a couple of used ones for sale. Also found a new discontinued 18v Dewalt cordless metal cutting saw which I already have plenty of batteries for and was going to get it but got to thinking about all the other pricey specialty tools I have that only see minimal use. Ultimately decided to go cheap and ordered a 6 1/2" Oshlun metal cutting blade from Amazon for $20 to go on a cordless Dewalt saw I already had. I'm sure it's probably not the correct RPMs, shielding, etc but I cut a foot of 3/16 sheet a couple of days ago with no issues and the blade still looks new.

 

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Very cool. Have never seen a saw like this. Does it spin as fast as a traditional wood rip saw?

My Dewalt 7 1/4" circular saw is 5800 rpm where this Jancy is max of 3500 rpm.

Here are the specs..

7" Metal Cutter Saw Part #: MCSL07 Features
•Bevel up to 45 degrees.
•Powerful 1200 watt motor
•Weighs only 13.6 pounds
•7" blade diameter
•2" depth of cut, 20mm arbor bore, overload switch
Impact resistant carrying case, standard
•Blade options for mild steel, stainless steel and aluminum

Faster, cleaner, safer and more affordable than other metal cutting equipment, the innovative Slugger Metal Cutter saw cuts steel as easily as plywood! Its specifically designed cover collects virtually all chips and sparks and the ability to bevel increases the tools capability in a way no other metal cutter can match. The Slugger metal cutting saw is an incredible, high quality power tool.

Mine will cut a max thickness of 5/16" mild steel, 3/8" aluminum, and 1/4" stainless with up to a 2" max cut depth as shown in specs.

I have now cut plate, pipe, angle, sq & rect tubing, and expanded metal with mine without any issues.

J

 

[Jetboy]

I believe the most important reason that these saws tend to be expensive is due to the need for a gear box to slow the blade speed. My 10" miter saw has a blade speed of a 2500rpm. In order to extend the gearbox life, they are usually soft-start motors.


I believe a Bosch "glider" compound miter would be a fantastic saw for this. The sliding mechanism could be entirely covered with a "boot" to keep it in good shape. It's robust enough to handle the additional abuse. And it is a belt drive saw. Re-gearing the saw would only require two new pulleys and it should work awesome as a metal cutting saw with an enormous capacity. I believe it would be able to cut something like 14x5" steel in a single pass. If I could find a good used Bosch saw I'd do it. I can't justify dropping $1000 on a saw like that.

 

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However, I sure do miss my Kalamazoo 14" cold saw and 10x 17" Horizontal bandsaw from my old fabshop. Should have never sold that place....

Man, cut those cut through some steel.

J