Builds Isuzu 4HE1TC into FJ62

[MadTripper]

I thought I'd dish out my 97 80 series and the 4HE1 I picked up but haven't had any bites so....I just found and paid for a 93 A442F and transfer case. I expect it late next week or the week after. Game plan is to dump it all into my 97 and see what I can make. I realize starter position is still an issue but I'll work on that as I approach that point.

For starters, I'm going to just mate everything up with an A450 bell and torque converter much like astr did in the NPR truck at the beginning of this topic. If anyone is in the Northeast PA area or Southern Tier NY region, I'd be happy to have some extra hands and eyes on this so shoot me a PM.

Sidebar over...sorry for the interuption.

Tripper

 

[astr]

Glad to see someone else take the plunge The more hands and minds involved, the better the chances of success.

 

[MadTripper]

Sure is cold in here....I'm getting a parts list together as I'm missing some items from my 4H. My tranny and txfer case arrived and are patiently waiting in the garage. I basically need the b/h and torque converter for an AW450, exhaust manifold and turbo as well as starter for the 4H. Of course my garage is still a wreck but whatever.

Tripper

 

[vsa911]

I started picking up parts and pieces for a similar project a few years ago (4HK1-TC, A442F, LT230 in a '79 Cherokee, somewhat near MadTripper in western NY), and I stumbled on your thread sometime last summer while trying to find people that may have done it already. It's been great reading, but I never figured I would be any help to post as I'm nowhere near as qualified with the transmission work I've seen astr post.

However, I think I might be of some help with the starter issue. Anyone doing this with these motors is going to have an issue if they don't want a 6" body lift, so maybe this will be useful. Last summer one of my part vendors got me a catalog from a starter and alternator manufacturer that detailed the exact specs for all of their parts with cross referenced numbers from the oems. They had listed a direct-drive starter that was a perfect match for the gear-reduced version normally used on the AW450. Much like "the check is in the mail" I don't have the part number at this time (once I knew the part I needed I "filed" it), but I will dig it out. It will definitely take more power to turn the motor over, but I personally prefer this option to lifting the body or modifying the floorboards (much).

 

[AppleTech]

I started picking up parts and pieces for a similar project a few years ago (4HK1-TC, A442F, LT230 in a '79 Cherokee, somewhat near MadTripper in western NY), and I stumbled on your thread sometime last summer while trying to find people that may have done it already. It's been great reading, but I never figured I would be any help to post as I'm nowhere near as qualified with the transmission work I've seen astr post.

However, I think I might be of some help with the starter issue. Anyone doing this with these motors is going to have an issue if they don't want a 6" body lift, so maybe this will be useful. Last summer one of my part vendors got me a catalog from a starter and alternator manufacturer that detailed the exact specs for all of their parts with cross referenced numbers from the oems. They had listed a direct-drive starter that was a perfect match for the gear-reduced version normally used on the AW450. Much like "the check is in the mail" I don't have the part number at this time (once I knew the part I needed I "filed" it), but I will dig it out. It will definitely take more power to turn the motor over, but I personally prefer this option to lifting the body or modifying the floorboards (much).

This would be an awesome help. Where would it mount?

 

[astr]

...However, I think I might be of some help with the starter issue. Anyone doing this with these motors is going to have an issue if they don't want a 6" body lift, so maybe this will be useful. Last summer one of my part vendors got me a catalog from a starter and alternator manufacturer that detailed the exact specs for all of their parts with cross referenced numbers from the oems. They had listed a direct-drive starter that was a perfect match for the gear-reduced version normally used on the AW450. Much like "the check is in the mail" I don't have the part number at this time (once I knew the part I needed I "filed" it), but I will dig it out. It will definitely take more power to turn the motor over, but I personally prefer this option to lifting the body or modifying the floorboards (much).

Any starter info would be extremely helpful. A direct drive starter, even if it mounted in the same place, might work as they are typically smaller in overall diameter and would not stick out as far from the transmission.

vsa911: Could you post up the starter specs?

 

[vsa911]

Well, I'm a little too disorganized at the moment to find everything quickly (my wife and I are trying out a new baby), but I get through life with a decent memory in most cases so here goes.

The starters used on the Isuzu/GM should be a 12 volt, clockwise, 11 tooth off set gear reduced model. I believe the OEM part is a Nippon Denso. I pulled the numbers off the starter and called a distributor for WAI in Syracuse (again, their name is tucked away with the catalog and options you guys really want) and had one of their techs match up some other starters. Most of them still had a solenoid in a poor location, but it was clocked lower on the starter so it was much less obtrusive. Some of the options involved welding and machining an extension onto the housing to get to the offset bolt hole, and this probably allows for the use of the best starter possible using the "make it fit" method. However, they had a couple of industrial engine starters that matched up perfectly in 12 volt and 24 volt flavors. All of them were a little longer (especially the 24 volt), but I don't remember it being an issue. For some reason the website doesn't list everything they offer, and there is no easy way to filter the starters. You should be able to get a local distributor from it, though.

WAI Global - First-to-Market! ... www.waiglobal.com

I really hope this helps. I will go through all of my stuff when I get some time and send over some of the part numbers if you can't get them easily.

 

[SuperHatch]

I've searched through this thread, maybe not too well, but what year NPR/NQR trucks had this engine and transmission combo? Basically, if we want to find a donor truck, what do we look for?

 

[astr]

I've searched through this thread, maybe not too well, but what year NPR/NQR trucks had this engine and transmission combo? Basically, if we want to find a donor truck, what do we look for?

'99 thru '04 for sure. Also late '98 and early '05 maybe.

 

[astr]

Just a quick update - the hybrid transmission is finally all together I'm in the process of rebuilding the T-case that is going on the back of it. I've got to organize the photos and finish the writeup. I thought that it would be better to post the documentation of the whole reassembly process at one time. I should have that done by week's end.

 

[AppleTech]

Just a quick update - the hybrid transmission is finally all together I'm in the process of rebuilding the T-case that is going on the back of it. I've got to organize the photos and finish the writeup. I thought that it would be better to post the documentation of the whole reassembly process at one time. I should have that done by week's end.

Christmas is coming early this year!!!

 

[astr]

Back Together Again!

Here is a photo of the hybrid transmission all back together minus the T-case. I’m still working on the T-case and realized that I need to order the shims used to set the preload on the bearings. Once the T-case is on, I’ll first stick the whole assembly in the Isuzu NPR to do some testing as it’s a much easier install.

Just a quick summary of some of the things I learned during this process:

The FSM is a must-have item but don’t trust it completely. I found several instances where bolt torque values were incorrectly and/or inconsistently stated. I also found that the order of performing some tasks as stated in the FSM was impossible. They wanted you to remove Part A followed by Part B. Well, you couldn’t access the snap ring that held Part A until you removed Part B so I had to reverse the order. My point is that having the FSM is mandatory but the FSM is not infallible.

Don’t disassemble the valve body. I thought that I would pull mine apart to flush it out. Bad idea! I had pulled a couple of the valves out (many parts and piece to each valve) when I realized that the FSM did not show this level of detail related to the valve body. Fortunately, I had another valve body that I could use to determine where what part went. I did finally get all of the valves and the associated bores flushed out. I would pull one valve out at a time, photograph the valve showing the location of each part, flush the valve and the bore, and reassemble that valve before going on to the next valve. This process was repeated 17 times. In retrospect, I probably gained little by going through the valve body flushing process and my biggest concern is that I didn’t get it back together correctly. There aren’t any parts within the valve body that you would normally replace.

Many different length bolts are used, especially to fasten the valve body into the case. Sort them out as to length before you start the installation. The FSM was very good about telling you which length went where.

Leave the various old O-rings on their respective components until you are ready to reinstall the component. Then match a new O-ring with the old and replace the old O-ring. Many of the O-rings are very similar in size so this approach minimizes the chance of installing the wrong O-ring in the wrong place. This is especially true with the O-rings on the accumulators.

There are extra gaskets and O-rings included in the overhaul kit to accommodate variations between models so you will have parts left over. (At least that is how I rationalize the extra parts). Be sure to match up the new gasket and the old, especially when working with the valve body. These have very slight differences.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 2) – 1st/Reverse Brake

Obviously, putting everything back will be in reverse order of disassembly. If you’ve pulled the 1st/reverse brake assembly, then that will be fitted first into the case. Press the output shaft bearing back into the case. I used my home made piston compressor to press it back in (Photo 1). Make sure the bearing is all the way in – the top of the bearing is actually slightly recessed into the case.

Next, the 1st/reverse brake piston goes into the case. Replace or at least thoroughly check the two O-rings that seal the piston (Photo 2). The FSM says to lube the case and O-rings with ATF but I found it very difficult getting the piston back in the case using ATF as a lube. I resorted to using the Parker O-ring lube and it worked great – it’s the K-Y Jell of O-rings. After coating the O-rings and the mating surfaces in the case with the Parker lube, push the piston back into the case, being careful not to cock the piston as you slide it in. (Photo 3) It should only take hand pressure to get the piston into the case.

 

[astr]

Next, the piston return spring assembly goes in, held in place by a snap ring (Photo 1). Compress the return spring assembly just enough to allow the snap ring to seat in the groove (Photo 2). Use caution as not to distort the return spring assembly by over compressing it!

 

[astr]

Next, install the plates and disks. There are four different types: steel cushion plate (1), steel plates (6), composite friction disks (6), and a steel flange (1) (see Photo 1).

If you’ve cleaned the friction disks in kerosene, be sure to soak them in ATF for 15 minutes prior to assembly.

The cushion plate is not flat and goes in first with the concaved side facing up followed by the six steel plates and composite friction disks alternating, starting with a steel plate. Finally, the steel flange goes in followed by the snap ring. The rounded side of the flange goes towards the snap ring (Photo 1). Make sure that the ends of the snap ring don’t end up in the cut out portion of the case (Photo 2).

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 3) – Output Shaft & Gears

Remove the AW450 output shaft from the rear planetary gear assembly by removing the snap ring (Photo 1). Swap in the output shaft from the A440F and reinstall the snap ring taking care that the ends of the snap ring don’t end up in the cutouts in the shell.

The FSM says to next install the output shaft assembly into the case followed by the front planetary gear assembly and one-way clutch. I found it easier to assemble the front planetary gear assembly and one-way clutch onto the rear planetary gear assembly and output shaft and then drop the whole thing into the case. Actually, if you followed my disassembly procedures, the front and rear planetary and one-way clutch parts would still be together and would be reinstalled as a unit. If you did remove the one-way clutch, be sure it is installed correctly as it can be installed backwards which will result in a lot of @#%&!! Photo 2 is an excerpt from the FSM showing the one-way clutch check. Photo 3 is of the assembly (front & rear planetary gears, one-way clutch and output shaft) ready to be dropped back into the case.

 

[astr]

Before attempting to install the planetary assembly into the case, line up all of the flukes on the friction disks to make it easier to engage the splines on the rear planetary gear (Photo 1).

Holding onto the front shaft, lower the assembly into the case. It takes quite a bit of twisting and lifting and jiggling to get every thing to line up so that the assembly will be fully seated in the case. I found it useful to install a temporary bolt (M8 x 1.25) in the top face of the front planetary gear to allow me to turn it (Photo 2).

When the assembly is fully seated in the case, no splines should be visible between the snap ring that retains the 1st/reverse brake disk pack and the one-way clutch (Photo 3).

Install the snap ring that holds everything in the case (Photo 2)

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 4) – Center Support

The center support, which contains the second brake, goes next into the case. Between the front planetary gear (already in the case) and the center support are two thrust washers. The steel washer goes in first against the front planetary gear (Photo 1). Make sure the protruding tabs on the washer engage the holes in the planetary gear. The brass thrust washer goes on the rear side of the center support with the tabs also engaged in the corresponding notches (Photo 2). Use a big glob of grease to hold the brass washer in place while installing the center assembly into the case. Prior to installing the center support into the case, install the three o-rings that seal the transfer ports on the periphery of the center support (Photo 3). Make sure that they are fully seated in the grooves.

These o-rings and similar o-rings in the overdrive case seem to be problematic. They are easily damages during the installation process (See Post # 329 https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62-17.html). Not only did I find several of them mangled on the transmissions that I took apart but this problem was also confirmed by a mechanic who works on these transmissions regularly. I would expect the problem to exist also on the A440F transmissions as they use the same method to seal the transfer ports.

My solution is to liberally coat both the o-rings and the case with the o-ring lube. It seems to work! As a test, I installed and removed the center support several times and the o-rings suffered no damage. I only hope that the lube doesn’t do bad things to other parts of the transmission!

 

[astr]

Orient the center support so that the o-rings in the center support line up with the transfer ports in the case (Photo 1) and slide the center support into the case until it bottoms out. Next, install the three bolts from the outside of the case that hold the center support in place (Photo 2). Before installing the bolts, verify that the bolt holes in the case line up with the holes on the center support. It is possible to have the brass thrust washer drop out of place while installing the center support which would keep the center support from going all the way into the case.

If the hole alignment looks good, coat the underside of the bolt heads with some sealer (I use the gray silicone rtv), install the bolts and torque them to 19 ft-lb.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 5) – Front & Rear Clutches

Begin by lining up the flukes of the friction disks of the second brake contained within the center support (Photo 1). Line up the splines on the rear clutch drum with the flukes and install the rear clutch assembly into the center support, rotating the assembly back and forth until it is full seated (Photo 2).