Builds Isuzu 4HE1TC into FJ62

[astr]

Coat the thrust bearing race with petroleum jelly and install it on the front clutch hub (Photo 1). Coat the mating thrust bearing and install it on the rear of the front clutch drum (Photo 2). Line up the rear clutch friction disk flukes and install the front clutch assembly into the rear clutch while rotating the assembly back and forth to mesh the disk flukes with the drum splines (Photo 3).

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 6) – OD Case

Prior to installing the OD Case, check the depth from the face of the front clutch assembly (Photo 1). This measurement should correspond to the measurement that you did during disassembly - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62-17.html Post #322. If it’s not the same, then the clutch drum is not fully meshed with all of the friction disks.

With some grease to hold it in place, install the thrust bearing race on the back side of the OD case (Photo 2). Install the bearing over the front clutch shaft (Photo 3).

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 6) – OD Case

Install the three o-rings that seal the transfer ports on the periphery of the OD Case (Photo 1). Make sure that they are fully seated in the grooves. Lube the O-rings and the transmission case with O-ring lube. Like those on the center support, these O-ring are prone to being mangled during installation of the OD case.

Insert some headless bolts (M8 x 1.25) or threaded rod into the case to guide and align the OD case as you slide it into the case (Photo 2). Photo 3 is of the OD case seated in the transmission case.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 7) – OD/Direct Clutch

Align the flukes of the OD brake friction disks inside the OD case (Photo 1). Install the OD planetary gear/clutch assembly into the case (Photo 2), making sure that the splines mesh with the flukes and that the assembly is fully seated. Photo 3 shows the OD planetary gear/cluch assembly installed.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 8) – Oil Pump

Verify that the OD planetary gear/clutch assembly is fully seated by repeating the measurement that you did in Post #320 https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62-16.html (Photo 1). Install the thrust bearing into the OD planetary gear/clutch assembly (Photo 2). Install the oil pump gasket into the case making sure it is oriented properly (hint – use the “F” stamped into the gasket as a reference) (Photo 3).

 

[astr]

Install the thrust bearing race on the back side of the pump (Photo 1). A little grease will hold it in place. Slide the pump assembly into place (Photo 2). Although not shown that way in the photo, you can use a headless bolts (M8 x 1.25) as a guide. The threaded rods that were used to pull the pump make excellent grab handles to hold the pump as you guide it back into the case.. There is only one orientation where all the bolt holes will line up. Coat the threads of the 11 pump bolts with sealant (I use RTV silicone rubber) and install and tighten them incrementally until you reach the final torque of 15 ft-lbs. (Photo 3).

 

[astr]

Install the two large O-rings that go around the periphery of the oil pump. The O-ring that is smaller in diameter but of larger cross section goes in the groove that is machined into the oil pump. The O-ring that is larger in diameter but of smaller cross section goes in the groove formed between the case and the pump body (Photo 1).

Now would be a good time to replace the front seal. Pry out the old one and drive the new one in until it is flush with the pump (Photo 2). I would definitely recommend replacing this seal because, if it is bad, you will have to pull the transmission to replace it latter. You could install the bell housing (aka Torque Converter Housing per FSM) but I found that it interferes with being able to rotate the transmission on my home-brewed transmission stand so I’m going to defer installing it till later.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 9) – Testing the Seals

As the main gear train of the transmission is now assembled, it is a good time to check the integrity of all of the seals. As mentioned before, some of the O-rings can get mangled during the assembly process and its better to find that out now, not after the transmission is installed in the truck. By applying air pressure (57 – 114 psi per FSM) at various locations, you can verify the operation of the various clutches and brakes and detect gross leaks caused by mangled or missing o-rings. Here is where the air is applied:

• B0 – O/D Brake
• B1 – 2nd Brake
• B2 – 1st & Reverse Brake
• C0 – O/D Direct Clutch
• C1 – Front Clutch
• C2 – Rear Clutch

For C2, there are two ports. You will have to plug one as you apply pressure to the other.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 10) - Manual Valve Lever Shift Shaft

Replace or at least carefully inspect the two seals that the “manual valve lever shift shaft” passes through (Photo 1). I’m trying to use the same nomenclature as the FSM but couldn’t they have just called it the shift shaft?

Next, assemble the modified parking lock rod, spacer (new one to replace the one you cut during disassembly), and the manual valve lever. I’m not really sure what purpose the “spacer” serves other than as a safety to keep the roll pin from falling out. I suspect you’d be OK to leave it out.

Note that there is a dimple in the manual valve lever offset a few degrees from the roll pin hole. This is where you stake the spacer to the manual valve lever (Photo 2). You may want to mark the position of this dimple with some tape as it will be covered up with the spacer (Photo 3).

 

[astr]

Position this assembly in the transmission case. You will have to thread the parking lock rod through the case so it protrudes through the back of the case (Photo 3).

The manual valve lever shift shaft is inserted next. If you are going to use a cable shift arrangement similar to that of the NPR truck, then you would use the unmodified AW450 manual valve lever shift shaft. If you are going try and use the stock FJ62 shift mechanism, you will have to modify the AW450 manual valve lever shift shaft to allow it to accommodate a shift lever on the driver’s side. For more details on manual valve lever shift shaft options, see Post #257 https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62-13.html

Grease up the shaft and slide it through the case and the manual valve lever until the hole in the shaft aligns with the hole in the manual valve lever, being careful not to damage the shaft seals (Photo 1). To attach the lever to the shaft, drive the roll pin through the aligned holes until the end of the pin is flush (Photo 1). The slot in the roll pin should be perpendicular to the shaft. Next, rotate the spacer a few degrees so that the end of the roll pin is covered. Using a center punch, stake the spacer to the manual valve lever at the location of the dimple (Photo 2). Photo 3 shows the completed shaft install.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 11) – Accumulators

Install the accumulators is very straight forward. There are four of them and they correspond to the B0 and B1 brakes and C1 and C2 clutches. Three of them are installed from the bottom of the transmission case and the fourth goes in from the rear of the case (Photo 1). The rear accumulator is held in place with a plate while the other three are held in place by the valve body.

First, sort the new O-rings by size. There are a total of six different sizes and some sizes are very close to others so do this carefully. Next, replace the old O-rings on each accumulator piston, one piston at a time, using the table in Photo 2. Lube up the O-rings and the bores in the case with O-ring lube. Sort out the springs that go with each accumulator. The FSM provides a chart of spring colors and dimensions for each accumulator. I found that the colors weren’t always correct but the dimensions were.

 

[astr]

Begin by installing the C1 accumulator from the rear of the case. Slide the lubed piston along with the associated spring into the bore (Photo 1). Install the cover, steel plate and two gaskets in the order shown in Photo 2 and torque the four bolts to 69 in-lbs. Install the three remaining accumulator pistons and associated springs into their respective bores in the bottom of the case (Photo 3)

 

[Tapage]

outstanding process dude .. thanks !

 

[astr]

outstanding process dude .. thanks !

Thanks - more to come today.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 12) – Valve Body

My standard overhaul kit came with a set of gaskets and O-rings for the valve body. If you break the valve body down into its major components (upper valve body, lower valve body, solenoids, etc.) you will need to replace these items. Breaking the valve body down will require dealing with 11 check balls. The process for breaking down the valve body into its major components is well documented in the FSM, however, breaking down the major components into their sub components is not documented at all. (Ask me how I know). My recommendation is to leave the valve body intact unless you are a glutton for punishment. There really aren’t any wear components within the valve body. At the most, I would suggest only replacing the O-rings on the solenoids, a relatively simple process.

To install the valve body, begin by installing the four sealing gaskets into the case (Photo 1). These gaskets appear to be metal washers coated with a rubber compound. Per the FSM, install them, facing the pitted side towards the transmission case. Next, Make sure the Manual Valve is installed in its bore in the valve body (Photo 2). Next, sort the 21 valve body by length (9 different lengths ranging from 0.87” to 2.24”). Photo 3 gives the lengths and locations.

 

[astr]

Set the valve body in place, making sure that the pin on the manual valve lever engages the groove in the manual valve (Photo 1). Next, install the two diagonal bolts marked with a star in the table above to align the valve body with the case. Tighten these finger-tight. Finally, install the remaining 19 bolts in the locations shown in the table above and tighten to 87 in-lbs. (Note: The FSM specifies the torque as 10 N-m, 1.0 kg-m, and 77 lb-in. If you convert 10 N-m or 1.0 kg-m to lb-in, you get 87in-lbs, consistent with the value specified elsewhere in the FSM).

Note that there are several clips that are held in place by these bolts. These are used to retain some of the valve body transfer pipes and wiring. Make sure you get these clips in the correct positions (Photo 2). Before tightening down the bolt holding the manual detent spring in place, make sure that the roller in is aligned with manual valve lever (Photo 1).

Finally, install the oil strainer and gasket (Photo 3). Although you can use either the A440F or AW450 pans, the oil strainer must match the valve body so you have to use the one that came with the AW450. Tighten the four bolts to 87 in-lbs.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 13) – Wiring Harness

Installing the wiring harness probably would have been easier if it was installed before the valve body. I should have followed the FSM closer.

Begin by replacing the O-ring on the wiring harness bushing and lube it up with O-ring lube. Likewise, put some lube on the inside of the hole in the case. Thread the harness from the outside of the case through the hole (Photo 1). Install the bolt securing the bushing to the case and torque to 69 in-lbs. Route the wiring as shown in Photo 2 and connect to the five solenoids and the temperature sensor. The connectors only go one way so don’t force them. Note that there are several clips securing the wires.

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 14) – Pan

You can use either the AW450 or the A440F pan. I chose to use the A440F pan because it positions the dipstick in the original location in the Land Cruiser, is a little deeper so will hold additional ATF, and comes with the skid plate (minimal protection but better than none!). As I want to add a temperature gauge in the future, I decided to add a bung now to accept the sensor. For a bung, I used a shortened steel 1/8” NPT pipe coupler from my local hardware store, turned down a bit on the OD to form a shoulder. I picked a location on the pan that was below the lowest oil level (Cold low mark), one that would not interfere with the valve body, and a location where the sensor would be protected by the skid plate (Photo 1).

Using muriatic acid, I removed the galvanizing coating from the pan in the area of the bung and from the bung itself, drilled a hole for the bung, and brazed the bung in place. I next restored the galvanizing coating around the bung by heating the area with a torch just hot enough to melt zinc. You can get a roll of zinc flashing from a roofing supplier. Using plumbing soldering flux on the area to be galvanized, I just melted the zinc by rubbing it across the heated, fluxed pan surface. A little touch up with a wire brush and the galvanized coating is restored, ready to face Michigan’s salty winters (Photo 2). I temporarily plugged the hole with a brass pipe plug that I had kicking around. (It must have been kicking around for a long time based on the price marked on the plug).

Next, position the four magnets in the pan per the AW450 FSM (Photo 3). Install the pan to the transmission case and tighten the 20 pan bolts to 61 in-lbs. To seal the pan to the case, you have a choice of using either a gasket supplied in the transmission overhaul kit or RTV silicon rubber as suggested in the FSM. I generally have had better luck eliminating leaks by using the RTV silicone rubber but this time I chose to use the gasket which will make removal of the pan a bit easier in case I have to go back in (Great show of confidence here!)

 

[astr]

Reassembling the AW450 (Part 15) – T-case Adapter

Begin by installing the park pawl into the T-case adapter. You will use the pawl, shaft and spring that came from the A440F. However, you will need to use the park pawl actuator rod guide from the AW450. You will need to elongate the mounting holes in the park pawl actuator rod guide a bit to fit the hole spacing in the T-case adapter. Install the park pawl actuator rod guide into the T-case adapter (Photo 1). Next, install the park pawl, shaft, and spring into the adapter (Photo 2).

 

[astr]

Slide the custom-made spacer over the output shaft (Photo 1). The dimensions of this spacer are given in Photo 2. The only really critical dimension is the length. The OD just happens to be that of some pipe that I had on hand. The ID has to be just large enough to fit over the output shaft without too much slop. It doesn’t have to be stepped as shown in Photo 2.

Finally, slide the park gear from the AW450 onto the output shaft until it is fully seated against the spacer (Photo 3)