Is TRIPLE BATTERY the new TRIPLE LOCKED?

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There's a quite bit of discussion in this section around battery setups to enhance one's touring and camping enjoyment. There's good reason for this as energy densities in LiFePo batteries are increasing and costs are plummeting. It's an exciting time to look at integrating more electrical camping accessories if that's of interest to you. My setup has been evolving over the past several years, and I think I've reached a point where the system is mature for my needs. It's more complex than most, and I wanted to share to give some inspiration for what's possible. You've likely heard of dual battery systems. I want to introduce you to a TRIPLE BATTERY system.

My Guiding Principles:
1) Don't run accessories on the starter battery.
I'm going remote places and want to minimize the chance of running down the starter battery. I want to let the starter battery do the job Toyota designed it to do, and design a supplementary battery system to run electrical accessories. The exception is the winch, which I wanted to have direct access to the alternator charging node and unencumbered by a DC-DC charger. It should only be used when the engine is running.

2) Maximize trunk space, minimize clutter. If I can distribute items to other areas like under the hood, under seats, etc, do so to minimize the amount of stuff kicking around the back end and maximize the usable volume in the trunk. This could apply to batteries, wiring, DC-DC, or even cooking systems. Part of "minimizing clutter" has also meant that I don't have swing-outs and that drives some interesting design thinking for cooking...

3) Go easy on the alternator. LiFePo batteries are capable of being charged very quickly... but they're also capable of being charged slower. Be judicious in what charging rate is actually needed.
4) Set it and forget it. I want to eliminate any setup time. Energy saved on setting up is energy I can put toward something else I enjoy. This adds up on month-long trips.
5) Go modular. There's no harm in having different batteries for different purposes. Keep the setup serviceable and upgradeable down the road.

6) Make it look stock. Sure, there's a rooftop tent up there, and a snorkel, and a drawer system. But, can I hide wires and equipment and make everything look well-integrated?

Why TRIPLE battery?
It really comes down to cooking, for me. I've had a number of different stoves over the years. White gas, canister-toppers, fold-open propane camping stoves. They all have their advantages and disadvantages but have a few things in common.
-First, there's generally some setup/teardown involved to make them travel compact and safely.

-Second, they suffer from cold, altitude and wind (to varying degrees). On my trip to Newfoundland, I was frustrated by my propane camp stove's drop in performance in windy conditions and decided to look into induction cooking. Induction cooking heats the actual cookware itself, rather than heating the air beneath the cookware. This is said to make it a relatively great performer against propane stoves in wind.

-Third, these stoves run on fire and can be knocked over or pulled off of a table. We have a 1-year-old, so making things safer for grabbing hands has been on my mind.

BUT, induction takes a large amount of power to get the best performance. This leads to a few challenges implementing induction in a standard dual-battery system.
1) Running thicc cables through the cabin. Since most dual battery systems run at a relatively low 12V, the ~1800w that induction requires 150 amps! That's going to lead to very thick, potentially expensive power cables that are difficult to bend and hide.
2) Need more batteries, need a giant inverter. I miiight have been able to get by with my single 100ah battery under the hood. But to be comfortable, I really needed another battery to have the capacity to do induction cooking. Additionally, I would need a large inverter to convert the battery's DC power to AC.
3) In order to charge another battery in a timely manner, would I need to get a bigger single DC-DC charger, or run two DC-DC chargers in parallel?

Finding a tidy way to hide an additional battery, very thick cables, and an inverter to achieve guiding principles 2 and 6 was proving challenging.

The Savior
The EcoFlow Delta 2 has been the component that finally unlocked the potential to do induction cooking for me. It's not much bigger than the 100ah battery I would need to expand my capacity. It has a built-in inverter capable of 1800w continuous that's capable of running the induction burner. It has a built-in charger that's capable of charging several ways: 12v cig socket (150w), solar or DC-DC (600w), alternator accessory (800w) and AC outlet (1800w).

The Gamble
I had a short, 5-day trip through the Black Hills for the inaugural run. I initially thought I wanted the 800w alternator charging accessory, but it plugs into the side of the unit, and the charging accessory itself is a decent size, especially with the locking cable connectors. I didn't think I could hide it achieve guiding principles 2, 3 and 6. The DC-DC route would have the same challenges as the alternator charger. So, I gambled and just plugged the Delta 2 into one of my cig sockets that I had run from my existing Aux battery under the hood to the trunk. In this topology, the Delta 2 would charge 24 hours a day whether the truck was running or not. It could top off overnight after cooking dinner, and top off during the day after cooking breakfast. I gave it a go, and it worked great! The original aux battery can be charged via rooftop solar or alternator when the car is running.

Modular Battery Duties:
Starter battery - Runs the truck and nothing else. Charges directly from the alternator at umpteen watts.
Aux battery - Runs a myriad of accessories in the truck and tent. Charges at ~350w via a BCDC that sources power from solar, alternator or both.
Delta 2 - mostly cooking and some accessory charging. Charges downstream of the Aux battery. Will charge at 100w from the BCDC or the Aux battery.

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I could keep going on various other aspects, but maybe should just open it up for discussion here. Let me know if you want photos of things or have questions. Cheers.
 
To each their own I suppose. To me the aux battery is just extra unnecessary weight and I'd rather own or build a larger LFP-based secondary battery inside the rig for that duty.
 
To each their own I suppose. To me the aux battery is just extra unnecessary weight and I'd rather own or build a larger LFP-based secondary battery inside the rig for that duty.
You bring up a couple nuances that I didn't get to above. The Aux battery is LiFePo, so there's no loss in energy density versus a larger single unit setup. And by splitting up the battery across two locations, I was able to fit the delta 2 in an out-of-the-way corner of my trunk that a larger single unit wouldn't fit.

Indeed to each their own and a single, larger LiFePo could work well for lots of folks. A single unit would break a few of my guiding principles.
 
No, triple battery is not the new triple locked.
 
3?! Too much battery mang...too much. I'm guilty too. :poof:

I run something very close to what you're describing, on occasion. Starter battery, house battery for accessory load and fridge, and optional 3rd portable Goal Zero battery. The Goal Zero comes in handy for the inverter and portability to run gear away from the car for induction, blender, crock pot, coffee maker, smoker, George Foreman, etc. If I'm hauling the Goal Zero, I'm usually just heating food/drink and not propane cooktop cooking.

I use the Goal Zero 5A/10A cigarette charger. I have 2 cigarette lighter outputs, one from the starter battery and one from the house battery, for flexibility.

While I like your principles, I don't hold fast to 1) Don't run accessories on the starter battery. Partially to avoid running more wiring than necessary and keeping most of the house battery wiring in the trunk area. Most of my accessory LED lighting is on the starter batt as it draws so little. Key to this is a SwitchPros that manages all the accessory loads, and protects the starter with Low Voltage Disconnect function.

I do wish there existed a smaller high capacity inverter like what often integrated into these portable lithium batts.


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I'm curious to try other electric kitchen appliances like you've outlined. A small toaster oven or countertop pizza oven could be fun for baking.

Yes to toaster oven too. It's pretty awesome that just about anything that can be plugged into the wall, can run off these portable batts.

That said, my Goal Zero is now 6 yrs old. It doesn't like high draw devices above ~1200W anymore (rated 1500W) and will completely shutdown/shutoff, with a couple minute delay before it comes back online.

Next time I buy a portable battery, it will be LiFePO4/LFP chemistry. They last longer and deal with desert heat better. Those EcoFlows look tasty.
 
When I see significant added complexity to an electrical system, the paranoia in me (that comes from experience with accidental DC welding) says one of the guiding principles has to be safety. Fuses and circuit breakers and good connections and correct size wire and protected terminals must be first and foremost.
 
mini waffle iron. ;)
 
When I see significant added complexity to an electrical system, the paranoia in me (that comes from experience with accidental DC welding) says one of the guiding principles has to be safety. Fuses and circuit breakers and good connections and correct size wire and protected terminals must be first and foremost.
Agreed. Added complexity always seems to guarantee an on-trail failure in my experience.
 
To be fair, I don't think this is inherently complex. Much of @daneo 's diagram is just documenting loads or use cases for the different batteries. I did most of this with KISS. The 3rd portable lithium is not installed per say, but can plug in when needed.

I also agree, wiring is a huge liability and with the degree of added hardware, splitters, fuses, can be done in a way that is prone to failure. IMO, the often seen instagram pics of "good" wiring is....

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I'm a fuse guy, personally, and all the loads are fused at the battery or power source. I didn't include fusing in the topology image for simplicity sake.

Everything except for the Delta 2 has done a week moving the family cross-country, a month in Iceland, survived 6" of mud water in the vehicle, two weeks to/from Newfoundland, along with numerous trips through the Ozarks. The only teething issue I've had was figuring out why my Aux battery wasn't charging when temps were below freezing. BCDC + Lithium, Undocumented Feature - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bcdc-lithium-undocumented-feature.1308329/

Otherwise the system has worked like Toyota put it in!
 
I'm curious to try other electric kitchen appliances like you've outlined. A small toaster oven or countertop pizza oven could be fun for baking.

My wife is Asian, so naturally, we bought an additional rice cooker that stays packed for trips. 😂 True story!

Also, an air fryer…. You haven’t camped until you’ve had air fryer chicken wings by the fire.

And yes, Induction stovetop all the way! Been induction only for years, mainly for reasons you describe.

When I go solo, I get a case of pop tarts and a handle of whiskey,

When she joins, we basically have a home kitchen with us, and it’s ALL electric
 
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Love the write up. It's pretty cool what doors LiFePO4 and solar are opening. My wife and spent over a year full time boondocking in a trailer I rewired to be fully solar powered (minus stove).
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Did you consider going 24/48v route for your second battery? Would that have avoided the need for the Delta?
 
Holy moly. Bringing the thiccness!

I hadn't thought about going higher voltage. It would help with being able to run thinner wires, but I don't think there are any energy density savings on the battery end to be gained. So, I'd still need the Delta 2. Thinking a little more about it, 12V is handy for the Aux battery since so many automotive accessories are on that voltage already.
 
24V works well with inverters and other potential high draw components in a camper.

Problem in a car is everything runs on 12V. Which requires extra gear to step down negating any wiring advantage.
 
24V works well with inverters and other potential high draw components in a camper.

Problem in a car is everything runs on 12V. Which requires extra gear to step down negating any wiring advantage.

Yes. Me and 2 buddies built similar stupid campers and I went 12v for that reason, one of them did 24v and one went 48v. They have a bunch of extra wiring and electronics for the conversion stuff.

My 12V system has been flawless. Yeah, maybe spent more $ on thicker cabling, but….

K.I.S.S.
 
12V for all your output loads. Keep it simple.

Maybe use 24V for solar input if you have multiple panels since you have to go through a solar controller in all cases anyway to get to the right nominal voltage

At least that’s what I did in my trailer. 271Ah of LFP, two fixed solar panels in parallel, all 12V. The benefit of 12V was immediately apparent when I needed to add a 3rd solar panel that was detachable for the days I’m parked in the shade… if I’d gone 24V from the roof I would have needed to use 2 panels. I probably could get a bit more efficiency from 24V but ultimately that efficiency has been irrelevant. Now if I had a giant fixed solar array on an off-grid cabin it would be a different story. FWIW I step up from 12-24V to charge my Bluetti LFP in my truck, but only because it had an 8.5A limit and with the fridge running it takes a looong time to charge up
 
Can confirm.
Toaster Oven + Power Station absolutely slaps.

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I got the ninja SP151. It’s about the size of a Front Runner soft case. For baking, it uses about 1.5% battery per minute from my ~1000wH EcoFlow Delta 2. So the cinnamon rolls + breakfast sandwich (not pictured) used about 20% of the capacity over 13 minutes. Same for the pizza. 13 minutes and ~20% consumption.

 
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