Is this whining sound from engine bay normal?or a sign of bad PS pump or something? (1 Viewer)

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I found a whining sound from the engine bay after I bought my 04 lc100, so I swapped the alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and belt with new OEM parts. And I flushed the PS system.

But the sound still there, it is not a big sound, I can only hear it in the cab when idle or out of the cab, once start driving the road noise will cover it. And the tone changing along with the steering wheel turns.

I just record a sample of that whining sound I said, you maybe want to turn up to max volume to hear it because the phone did not pick it very well.

does this sounds like it from the power steering pump? or it just a normal working sound?


 
Sounds like PS pump. Possible that you still have some air in the system after your flush. If not air, then the pump can be mostly rebuilt using OEM parts for cheap.
 
Sounds like PS pump. Possible that you still have some air in the system after your flush. If not air, then the pump can be mostly rebuilt using OEM parts for cheap.
I will flush it again this weekend, if it still there I will replace it. Should we use some special tool to bleed the air? (if there is any tool for that pls let me know) or the traditional "Lock to Lock" trick is good enough?
 
I will flush it again this weekend, if it still there I will replace it. Should we use some special tool to bleed the air? (if there is any tool for that pls let me know) or the traditional "Lock to Lock" trick is good enough?
Hold at each side lock for a few seconds, then repeat on the other side. I’d do with both wheels off the ground and both on the ground.

FWIW, vane pump gasket kit that includes new bearings is only $25 (0444653030), whereas a new pump is around $500-600, depending on where you get it. You can also buy most of the internal pump parts separately.

C9B72B38-20AB-48A2-B751-1FC2E8DEE4F5.jpeg
 
Hold at each side lock for a few seconds, then repeat on the other side. I’d do with both wheels off the ground and both on the ground.

FWIW, vane pump gasket kit that includes new bearings is only $25 (0444653030), whereas a new pump is around $500-600, depending on where you get it. You can also buy most of the internal pump parts separately.

View attachment 2601130


If I want to replace it with a new PS pump, then I need to reuse the 44411C in the blue box and replace the 44411D in the red box because 44411D is gasket. Is my understanding right?
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 11.29.05 AM.png
 
If I want to replace it with a new PS pump, then I need to reuse the 44411C in the blue box and replace the 44411D in the red box because 44411D is gasket. Is my understanding right?
View attachment 2601170
I would replace both. They’re cheap.
 
Blue Box is the banjo bolt (reusable)
Red Box is the crush washer set (not reusable)

Will look similar to this (only silver colored):

CW.jpg
 
Unfortunately the vane pump gasket kit doesn't come with new bearings - it is just a shaft seal in that picture that looks a lot like a bearing. If anyone has a documented vane pump rebuild documented (beyond doing the seals) I'd be really interested in going through it. To summarize the FSM, it has you go through and caliper every individual component (including each vane) and if they are out of spec it says to "replace the entire vane pump assembly". You can buy 6 different sizes of vanes for the pump which complicates things as they don't note how to balance or put new vanes into the pump if you do find one out of spec.

They also have you measure the shaft yolks and if caliper fluctuates at all they want you to replace the entire vane pump assembly. The way I read it is, "if everything is not perfect, or if the pump is making noise but everything tests within spec, replace the vane pump assembly".

I priced out the costs of doing a mechanical rebuild of the pump and it was right at (or more) the price of the replacement pump. I have been keeping an eye on an OEM pump for about a year as my vane pump makes noise. It's not getting worse, but not improving either despite flushing, cleaning, and bleeding. They seem to fluctuate a lot in prices. Best I have found was around $250-300 and they go as high as $500-700 with markup. Same part numbers which is the typical Toyota franchise dealership scam.

I'm not disagreeing with rebuilding the pump if its leaking, I think its a very good option as it's not overly complicated and the kit is super cheap for what you're getting. It's the mechanical rebuild of it that seems like a blind spot we have here on the forum. If there isn't a resource out there on this year, I am going to replace my pump with an OEM unit and then do a full detailed tear down of my current pump with 193k on it that is whining when cold and turning.
Hold at each side lock for a few seconds, then repeat on the other side. I’d do with both wheels off the ground and both on the ground.

FWIW, vane pump gasket kit that includes new bearings is only $25 (0444653030), whereas a new pump is around $500-600, depending on where you get it. You can also buy most of the internal pump parts separately.

View attachment 2601130
 

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