Is this right to loosen the cranshaft pulley with starter bump?

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

With just 67,764 miles on the odometer, the crankshaft oil seal leaks like an exxon valdex creating a nasty a$$ oil clean up along the undercarriage of the truck

Anyway, I'm attempting to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt using the starter bump method. The distributor's center lead is already off to prevent the start up and all drive belts are off too. I put on the 30mm 3/4" drive socket and the 3/4" breaker bar extended with 3 ton jack handle and wedged it against the passenger side frame, is this the correct way to loosen it up with a short bump/click on the starter? I read Zane's write up and he mentioned to put the breaker bar against the passenger side frame rail, I just want to positively sure that it is the right way before I turn the ignition switch to ON. Thanks for the help.

 

[KliersLC]

Looks good. Gitrdun.

 

[azTony]

The easier way I found and I just did this last week. There was a post in another thread about taking the "inspection window" off the front of the transmission and putting a deep well socket on one of the torque converter bolts and turn the crank bolt until it contacts the side of the transmission housing. Once the contact is made to the side of the transmission housing and the socket is on straight (watch to make sure it does not go off in an angle, a 8 point socket works best here) then go to the crank bolt and loosen it. I put my feet on the front tire and used the jack handle of my floor jack for a cheater on the end of my breaker bar and it came right off.

The same applies for tightening the bolt. I had trouble finding a torque wrench that went up that high and was not able to rent one. I borrowed one from a diesel mechanic and it took less than a minute to tight it to torque.

 

[nicholas]

The easier way I found and I just did this last week. There was a post in another thread about taking the "inspection window" off the front of the transmission and putting a deep well socket on one of the torque converter bolts and turn the crank bolt until it contacts the side of the transmission housing. Once the contact is made to the side of the transmission housing and the socket is on straight (watch to make sure it does not go off in an angle, a 8 point socket works best here) then go to the crank bolt and loosen it. I put my feet on the front tire and used the jack handle of my floor jack for a cheater on the end of my breaker bar and it came right off.

The same applies for tightening the bolt. I had trouble finding a torque wrench that went up that high and was not able to rent one. I borrowed one from a diesel mechanic and it took less than a minute to tight it to torque.

I used the check window to re-install the bolt and the starter bump to remove it.

It should only take a very very quick bump of the starter to get it loosened. It looks like you have the handle secured to the frame, which is very important. The tighter you can get the wrench secured to the frame and the bolt the better. You don't want to have any slack when you go to bump the starter.

On the re-install I found that a short brass drift worked well to stop engine movement when placed in the check window.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Thanks guys, I did a short/quick start and the darn crankshaft pulley bolt got loose. I removed the main efi fuse though. Yeah, I got the pulley off of the engine now. The crankshaft oil seal is a pain to remove

 

[80ways]

I've done it on two different 80's - once with the socket in the torque converter and once with the starter bump. The torque converter method seems safer to me - less likely to break something. Worked well on my rig, but requires two people - one to hold the socket on the torque converter bolt, and one to push like a mother on a long breaker bar. On my buddy's 80, we busted two thin walled 14mm sockets on a torque converter bolt; the crankshaft bolt on that one was too tight. So we resorted to the starter bump method with a breaker bar duct taped in place under the passenger side frame rail. Shattered the 1/2" breaker bar head the first time, so use a 3/4" if you have it, and don't have anyone sticking their head under the hood when you bump the starter. Good luck.
Bob

 

[darnold87]

I too did the starter bump (just like you have yours setup).
On the re-install, I wrapped a chain around the drivers side frame, then to the crank pulley, put a bolt through the threaded hole on the bottom of the pulley, then around the passenger side frame, back to the pulley and put a bolt in the threaded hole on the top side of the pulley. Sounds complicated but worked great, and you can easily do it with just one person.

When I did mine, I couldn't believe the size of that crankshaft bolt!

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

I too did the starter bump (just like you have yours setup).
On the re-install, I wrapped a chain around the drivers side frame, then to the crank pulley, put a bolt through the threaded hole on the bottom of the pulley, then around the passenger side frame, back to the pulley and put a bolt in the threaded hole on the top side of the pulley. Sounds complicated but worked great, and you can easily do it with just one person.

When I did mine, I couldn't believe the size of that crankshaft bolt!

Sure is, that bolt is pretty big. I have some home made tool that was designed for the 4Runner crankshaft pulley. I'll post pics later.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

cut in the oil seal housing

well as soon as I removed the crankshaft oil seal, I found out that the housing has a cut, torn and or damaged at the 6 o'clock position, will this create another leak once the new oil seal has been installed? The pics are a little blurry but you get the idea Thanks.

 

[Sc0-]

I wouldn't worry about it, use some anaerobic sealer around the seals outer edge and tap home. If it leaks again it will be from the center crankshaft portion.

 

[arndog123]

I'll be doing this to my wife's LX soon and the oil pump seal too since it will be readily accessible. I'm just waiting on a 30mm socket and torque wrench. I couldn't find both tools locally so had to order 'em.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

I'll be doing this to my wife's LX soon and the oil pump seal too since it will be readily accessible. I'm just waiting on a 30mm socket and torque wrench. I couldn't find both tools locally so had to order 'em.

I got my 3/4" breaker bar Northern Industrial JUMBO Flex Head Ratchet — 20in.L, 3/4in. Drive | Ratchets + Handles | Northern Tool + Equipment and Northern Industrial JUMBO Impact Socket — 29mm, 3/4in. Drive | 3/4in. Drive Metric Individual | Northern Tool + Equipment 30mm 3/4" drive socket from Northern Tools (picture is 29MM, can't find the 30mm). They are much cheaper than Snap On or Sears.

 

[unwiredadventures]

Anyway, I'm attempting to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt using the starter bump method. The distributor's center lead is already off to prevent the start up and all drive belts are off too.

I had my front seal changed by my mechanic today. They made a few attempts to remove the bolt at first. The starter bump method worked perfectly for them.