Is this a deal breaker? (real time help needed)

[jgordon]

Guys,

Still working on this truck down in Dallas. It's the dark grey, shiny, perfect interior one. Just had it inspected this morning, and here's what came back as needed:

Valve covers leaking
RMS leaking
Steering knuckles leaking
Front brakes needed
Rear wheel brake cylinders needed
Drivebelts needed

Carb rebuild needed
Engine compression is good cold, but falls to 110 on #2 and 115 on #5 when you let it idle for a while. The tech thought it was related to the carb, and I honestly don't know enough about carbs to agree or disagree.

Here's the work order. He's estimating 3k - 3500 worth of work necessary to bring it up to spec, $1000 of this on safety/immediate work (brakes, belts).

Thanks.

 

[import silvia]

How good are you at turning a wrench? Cause you had either be willing to turn wrenchs or spend a lot of coin to really own a vehicle of this vintage.

For me none of that is a big deal, but I like to wrench....

 

[YODA 88 62]

Stay away from the stealership. They tend to tell you things that could be fixed now, but they actually still have some life left in them.

Most of these problems can easily be fixed:
Valve covers leaking= 4 nuts and a gasket ($20 toyota gasket)
Front brakes needed= (pads are easy and cheap, rotors are not as easy but fun, also depends on how many miles are on the rotors)
Rear wheel brake cylinders needed= unless they are leaking they are fine, pads are easy to change with brake tools.
Drivebelts needed= around $30 for cheap belts, and a few hours
Carb rebuild needed= Do it yourself or trade for a rebuilt one


good luck
Charles

 

[loeky]

i would say that all that work is fairly commonly needed for an older truck. the compression can possibly be directly related to carb and more specficially, the valves.

here's what i might expect to pay for some of that:

rebuilt carb by JimC: $300
new belts: $100?/installed
knuckle rebuilds: $200/side /installed
valve adjustment: $100/installed
valve gasket: $30?/installed
rear wheel cylinders: $150 or so/installed
brakes: $50 or so./done yourself. it's easy.

[no offense yoda, these are what i think it would cost here.]

all that work is really just maintenance and nothing out of the ordinary. the point is that you shouldn't take it to the stealership. they are ridiculous. find a good, recommended mechanic and ask them to take care of you. you'll be happier and your wallet won't feel so light.

from what you've posted, i would go for the truck. it sounds nice and that stuff really isn't a deal breaker at all. to be frank, you could probably drive it as is for a while and not know the difference. my truck needed almost all of exactly what you mention there and it had 170K when i bought it for $3650.

 

[jgordon]

Good stuff. I've been talking to Jose Rivera here, and he seems like a great guy. The stealership entered the picture only because I'm 1,500 miles away from the truck and they wouldn't take it to Dung Nguyen up in Garland for an inspection. Most of that I can tackle on my own - brakes I'm a little iffy on (as I'm kind of an idiot and they seem important). But gaskets and belts, yeah, I can handle that.

Very much appreciated on the input. I'm pretty sure the wrench and I have different understandings of compression - I still don't see how the compression could be affected by the carb.

 

[Mr. Toad]

i would say that all that work is fairly commonly needed for an older truck. the compression can possibly be directly related to carb and more specficially, the valves.

I'm not sure I understand how a carb can cause low compression. During the compression stroke, the carb is isolated from the compression chamber by the closed valves, right?

Someone help me out here?

 

[NocalFJ60]

I'm not sure I understand how a carb can cause low compression. During the compression stroke, the carb is isolated from the compression chamber by the closed valves, right?

Someone help me out here?

The only way the carb could be related to low compression I know of as if it the engine is not getting max air flow when cranking it. So on the intake stroke it is pulling air through a small hole but don't see this being very likely. In the manual it says to push the gas to the floor or hold open the valve while checking compression.

Sounds like he was trying to sell you a new OEM carb or he just didn't know and was guessing.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Guys,

Valve covers leaking
RMS leaking
Steering knuckles leaking
Front brakes needed
Rear wheel brake cylinders needed
Drivebelts needed

Carb rebuild needed
Engine compression is good cold, but falls to 110 on #2 and 115 on #5 when you let it idle for a while. The tech thought it was related to the carb, and I honestly don't know enough about carbs to agree or disagree.

Whats a RMS? How many miles does it have on it? Did he check the compression after it had warmed up? A valve adjustment could be needed if the compression is low.

 

[jgordon]

RMS = rear main seal. But Jose was saying it could be one or two other seals in the area mistaken for that.

Good call on the valve adjustment. Hadn't thought of that. Truck has 190k miles, and it doesn't seem like anyone was babying it. The compression seemed good cold (~150 all around) and fell to shyt when hot. I still need to put that wrench in touch with Jose, bc I don't know enough to adequately translate.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Seems like if the compression gets lower as the engine warms up it would be tired rings but have not done a lot of compression test to have a lot of experience. Warming it up and doing a wet test you can find out if it is the rings. Measure it warm and then drop some oil in the cylinder and if it comes back up then the oil is helping seal the rings better. I would try and find some closer to where you live unless you can get it for a great deal.

Goodluck

 

[loeky]

I'm not sure I understand how a carb can cause low compression. During the compression stroke, the carb is isolated from the compression chamber by the closed valves, right?

Someone help me out here?

i should have been more clear by saying that i personally don't know for sure about the carb [though it might], but a valve adjustment would be prudent.

 

[Mr. Toad]

. . . In the manual it says to push the gas to the floor or hold open the valve while checking compression.

Sounds like he was trying to sell you a new OEM carb or he just didn't know and was guessing.

That's my thought too. Maybe you get lower compression if the choke is stuck closed, but any competent wrench would only check with the pedal to the metal (or so you would hope...)

I picked up a 62 a while back that had been "dealer maintained" -- even the tires and air freshener were bought from the dealer. The poor service and care received in return for the outrageous service bills were astonishing. For instance: no springs or pad shims anywhere on the front brakes; charges for oil changes that clearly hadn't been done, and; 90k service receipt that indicated timing belt replacement!

That's not a knock on all dealers (the dealership I frequent has top notch parts and svc -- maybe b/c they know I'm checking ), but I'm sometimes amazed . . .

 

[baldredhead]

knuckle rebuilds: $200/side /installed

you're talking DIY right?

 

[loeky]

you're talking DIY right?

yes. it would be that plus parts for a shop to do.

 

[beaufort-fj60]

i should have been more clear by saying that i personally don't know for sure about the carb [though it might], but a valve adjustment would be prudent.

I'm surprised the dealer even looked at the carbed cruiser in the first place, Half the techs were probably in diapers back in 1985.

 

[Heartworm]

Compression=carb?

I wish somebody would give a really logical explanation for the low compression is a couple of cylinders being related to the carburetor. I can't buy it myself; sounds like worn rings to me. Total motor rebuild with owner removing and replacing motor= $2K.

 

[baldredhead]

yes. it would be that plus parts for a shop to do.

that would be one incredibly fast and cheap shop in the bay area

 

[macneill]

Not a big dealership fan either. I know when I was looking and thought I had found "the one" and didn't get it for whatever reason or another, something else always came along. My .02.

 

[sundaypunch]

The only thing I'd be concerned about is the compression issue. I'm can't say that I'd pass based on it but I would want to find out what is up.

Unless you are buying from an enthusiast that wrenches most of the other items always need to be done. As others have said they aren't that expensive if you can DIY. Knuckle rebuild, brakes, belts, replace fluids, etc. Maybe you can get the owner to come down in price a bit.

 

[Zack1978]

RMS = rear main seal. But Jose was saying it could be one or two other seals in the area mistaken for that.

Good call on the valve adjustment. Hadn't thought of that. Truck has 190k miles, and it doesn't seem like anyone was babying it. The compression seemed good cold (~150 all around) and fell to shyt when hot. I still need to put that wrench in touch with Jose, bc I don't know enough to adequately translate.

What state are you in? Are you in NJ?


Zack