I have the early 30 amp and I know it is fine. My question is how sensitive are the later, indirect , models ? If I have my lights on , and use the turn signal and/or flashers , the amp gauge deflects considerable. Also , by definition, an ammeter should be in series with the circuit. Basic electricity 101. The later models really are not ammeters.
Is there a fix for the Amp gauge? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter love2fly
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I have the early 30 amp and I know it is fine. My question is how sensitive are the later, indirect , models ? If I have my lights on , and use the turn signal and/or flashers , the amp gauge deflects considerable. Also , by definition, an ammeter should be in series with the circuit. Basic electricity 101. The later models really are not ammeters.
All of the meters are electromagnets. The read out is the magnetic field, which is the product of amps times volts. Since the voltage only varies between 12 and 14 V, when you put the electromagnet in series, it will indicate mainly amperage or flow. If you put the same electromagnet, in parallel, it will indicate voltage.
It is easier to build an accurate high current amp meter using a shunt to carry 99.9% of the current with 0.1 % flowing through the meter. The early 30-0-30 meters had an internal shunt, so high current wires had to go the dash and back out to the battery, which can cause fires if the wires short out. The later 50-0-50 meters use the fusible link as an external shunt so that there is no high current at the dash. The meter is protected by two fuses near the fusible link so if your 50-0-50 meter isn’t working check the fuses.
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for the PM on this post - the coiled wire trick seems feasible on the my 82 FJ45 and my friends 81 FJ40 as he too has no movement on his amp gauge. Thanks again
Dash / Gauge Lights
Dash / Gauge Lights
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
- Thread starter
- #26
Okay before I send off the Amp gauge I wanted to try the coiled wire trick related to the above (Dash / Gauge Lights) (old post) to see if it would maybe energize the system into working but when I look at the my lay out its not the same as the US models and looks as if it has the jumper wire already at the fusible link but not to sure what that is. Anyone, pin_head, didn't you have some answers on that old post, think it was 2016?
Thanks
This is the wire he used
This is the picture of the FJ40 being worked on in the post
This is my fuse link on the 82 FJ45 (Auz)
Thanks
This is the wire he used
This is the picture of the FJ40 being worked on in the post
This is my fuse link on the 82 FJ45 (Auz)
Hard to be sure what it going on there because the fusible link appears to be some P.O. hack job. I’m guessing. If you look at the red wires connected to battery + post, one goes to the connector marked Y and the other goes to the connector marked K. Cut the wire going to Y in the middle and splice in the 14ga wire. Start with about 24 inches and if the meter is too sensitive, shorten it to your liking. Splicing in the wire increases the resistance of the shunt making more current flow through the meter and increasing its deflection. Also make sure the fuses are good.
AlaskanWheeler
SILVER Star
By increasing and wrapping the wire onto itself, as pictured, it'll induce more current into the circuit.
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
- Thread starter
- #30
I too am not sure what's going on when I fist saw this myself as it is an Australian RHD but is seems to be okay whet ever it does.
Both the connectors K & Y look as they are a Toyota type other than the crimp ring at the Battery (after market). Not sure why the Y 9white and blue wire - Amp) has a jumper going to the K ( black Amp-white/blue and red stripe). Makes me believe that the PO may of been trying to do the same but with a short section of wire.
The Y and K was for me to identify when truck was apart for rebuild.
So - Cut the Y wire in the center ( in half ) and splice in a wire loop. Will give that a try.
Just replaced the two old style 15A Amp glass fuses and plastic holder with two new water tight spade type holders with 15A fuses. None of this changed the 50/50 Amp meter on the dash, still no movement.
Thanks guys.
Both the connectors K & Y look as they are a Toyota type other than the crimp ring at the Battery (after market). Not sure why the Y 9white and blue wire - Amp) has a jumper going to the K ( black Amp-white/blue and red stripe). Makes me believe that the PO may of been trying to do the same but with a short section of wire.
The Y and K was for me to identify when truck was apart for rebuild.
So - Cut the Y wire in the center ( in half ) and splice in a wire loop. Will give that a try.
Just replaced the two old style 15A Amp glass fuses and plastic holder with two new water tight spade type holders with 15A fuses. None of this changed the 50/50 Amp meter on the dash, still no movement.
Thanks guys.
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I just believe a shunt / meter is more precise than a coiled wire. I know you will get results , so maybe a clamp on meter could justify what the meter is reading. Seems the better option is to repair or replace the stock function as designed.
I've never had a problem with a stock Ammeter... so it shouldn't be hard to find a good used replacement.
The ammeter currently in my rig only shows discharge of the OEM circuits because the 120A alternator is wired directly to the battery. I've got a cluster in the works with a Voltmeter in the Ammeter's place... once I'm finished I'll have a spare +30/-30 ammeter to spare. I've found a 'Faria' Voltmeter fits in the Ammeter's place, was reasonably priced, was made in America, and should be accurate enough for the purpose.
My other rig does have a shunt and a +200/-200 Amp ammeter... so that the wiring to the console doesn't have to be '00' Gauge like the wiring between the 4 batteries and the '4' gauge wire to the 215 A continuous duty alternator.
The ammeter currently in my rig only shows discharge of the OEM circuits because the 120A alternator is wired directly to the battery. I've got a cluster in the works with a Voltmeter in the Ammeter's place... once I'm finished I'll have a spare +30/-30 ammeter to spare. I've found a 'Faria' Voltmeter fits in the Ammeter's place, was reasonably priced, was made in America, and should be accurate enough for the purpose.
My other rig does have a shunt and a +200/-200 Amp ammeter... so that the wiring to the console doesn't have to be '00' Gauge like the wiring between the 4 batteries and the '4' gauge wire to the 215 A continuous duty alternator.
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Because the resistor would look like a coil of 14 ga wire because it has very low resistance (like .01 ohm) and would have a very high watt rating of like 500 watts.
