Is the 3UR-FE in a 200/LX570 different/better than one in a Sequoia/Tundra? (1 Viewer)

Is the 3UR-FE in a LC better than in other trucks


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Westwood, Ca/Ixtapa MX/Ahwatukee, Az
My 143k mile '13 Supercharged Sequoia dropped a valve, has 100% leakdown loss and is blowing oil through the crankcase. Labor on rebuilding the heads is 4500, (plus parts) labor to R&R the motor is 3400 and a Tundra/Sequoia motor is 4500 or so vs a LC/LX is 6k+

I'm inclined to bite the bullet & get a motor as I'd be afraid of the 143k boosted for 30k miles bottom end.

Does it make sense to spend another 1500 or so for the LC/LX motor?

Here's what it's doing.

 
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It's moot, ordered an '18 Tundra motor.

The pain could have ben much worse. 3400 R&R, 4k 70k mile motor, ordered 200 starter, 390 alternator, 2x 130 knock sensors (they go under the intake aka supercharger) also working on coolant hoses that live under the SC and at the back of the motor.

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Probably a combination of the Supercharger, Az heat and bad luck.

I'll find out when I open it up (in many months)
 
FWIW, there is said to be a difference in lc/lx motors vs tundra ones. Lc/lx motors are supposed to be built in Japan with blocks with less impurities.

@94landcruiser your numbers are spot on. Did a similar repair in my Tundra recently and with the price of the engine, I opted to do the labor myself. Which was good because my transmission went less than 2 months later. I ended up getting the transmission from the same donor for the engine.
 
@yOHda Thanks, normally I might have done it myself but I am currently dealing with a motor rebuild/r&r that has my garage tied up.

Pulled yesterday.
Plus that 5.7 is a gigantic pig & I'm by myself, also the shop is fixing a parking lot rapist that messed up my door, installing solid motor mounts I have had sitting here for 2 years, doing a trans flush/filter change etc.


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The car care nut guy on YouTube says "Yes" the engines in LC's and Tundra/Sequoia are slightly different.
He is a Toyota mechanic. He made a video on this exact subject. I'll try to post it.
Edit. Touches on it here.
 
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I mean I have a tundra and a 200, the 200's plastics (that are on it) feel totally different compared to the tundra. So i imagine little things are likely different compared to the tundra. I imagine both will easily clear 200k without drama.
 
@yOHda Thanks, normally I might have done it myself but I am currently dealing with a motor rebuild/r&r that has my garage tied up.

Pulled yesterday.
Plus that 5.7 is a gigantic pig & I'm by myself, also the shop is fixing a parking lot rapist that messed up my door, installing solid motor mounts I have had sitting here for 2 years, doing a trans flush/filter change etc.


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That's not 3UR on the last picture :) Is it W12 or I6 slightly tilted?
 
Lol it's an S52 I6 BMW M motor.
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It's moot, ordered an '18 Tundra motor.

The pain could have ben much worse. 3400 R&R, 4k 70k mile motor, ordered 200 starter, 390 alternator, 2x 130 knock sensors (they go under the intake aka supercharger) also working on coolant hoses that live under the SC and at the back of the motor.

[IMG]
Why did you chose to order and install new knock sensors? I haven’t heard of them going bad, throwing false codes or anything, although I realize they’re hard to get to.
 
Why did you chose to order and install new knock sensors? I haven’t heard of them going bad, throwing false codes or anything, although I realize they’re hard to get to.
When they die they don't throw codes. Engine detonates and ECU knows nothing. I think it's just a cheap assurance to replace the knock sensors on engine running with boost.

I would be running 91-93 octane gas, too.
 
Same reason I got a new torque converter, I'd hate for the 143k units I had fail and have to mess with it again, I really don't want to have to remove the supercharger for a knock sensor.

Also, I did not realize there were 4 knock sensors so I got 2 more.
 
It's done, same supercharger.
 
Also curious why you chose solid motor mounts over stock? Which parts exactly, since I’m doing a R&R too?
 

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