Is getting a a 2uz powered truck (100 series, 4th gen 4R, gx470, etc) to "downsize costs" a bad choice?

[jmferg]

Good afternoon,
A year ago a purchased a 2021 tacoma trd off-road. I like most everything about the truck except to the payment (and it being slightly cramped). Circumstances have changed slightly and i am less in love with it than i expected. My family is going to add a fourth in the next month. The payment is cutting into my debt to income and my savings towards a home. I would like to get out from under a payment and purchase a vehicle outright and eliminate a payment. I am considering getting a 2uz-powered toyota 4x4. My last couple vehicles have been a 3rd gen 4runner, 1st gen Tacoma, 2nd gen pro4x xterra, and now the 3rd gen tacoma. I still "need" a body on frame 4x4. I do a good amount of remote hunting in areas without cell reception and have a small off road camper to tow.
I have been looking at 4th gen 4runners, gx470s, 1st gen double cab tundras, and 100 series/lx470s (being my preference). After a little more research, i am seeing a lot of commentary on people spending up to $10,000 on "baselining" their newly purchased 100 series. The majority of this cost seems focused around the engine. WP, timing belt, cam seals, plugs, hoses, heater T's, belt, pullies, etc.

I don't see this conversation around any of the other platforms whatsoever. What makes the landcruiser so much needier than they other platforms? Is this just a symptom of the buying demographic of a 20yr landcruiser vs a 20 year old 4runner? I did a quick comparison on rockauto comparing the 2uz prado platform vs a 100 series. Basic repairs items (ball joints, rotor/pads) were only about 20% more in cost. I would like to purchase something within a budget of $15,000. I am comfortable knowing i will probably spend $2,000 a year on basic maintenance keeping it up and reliable. I will do most of the mechanical repairs myself with the exception of the timing belt, waterpump, and cam seals. I drive A LOT, about 80 miles everyday for work, 20-25k/year. i know fuel will be a large expense to consider going from 21 to 16 mpg but that won't be anything too different from my last decade of 4x4s. A small part of me considers buying a 2nd gen Honda pilot and having a dedicated set of wheels/tires and hunting season and winter. It would do 90% of what i need but i would despise driving it. The other part of me "needs" to indulge myself with having a Toyota 4x4 as it is my personal material joy.
I am experienced with most toyota platforms and am aware what to look for while pre-purchase inspecting a used vehicle
Given the above, is a 100 series a poor choice for a reliable daily driver looking to downsize costs and purchase outright? For reference, I have been looking at cruisers comparable to this (year, mileage, price). I'd appreciate honest, (mildly) unbiased feedback and opinions from members here.

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[Trapper50cal]

It's a conundrum. Land Cruisers are so reliable that a lot of scheduled maintenance gets overlooked, I think that's why you're seeing these big "baseline" tabs. A couple big ticket items...steering rack, WP/TB, Radiator, CV's, Brake Booster, Engine Room Block Assembly (under hood fuse and relay box) Lots of bushings that are finally perished, ball joints. A lot of guys are buying these older trucks then just taking care of everything that was put off so they don't have to worry about it anymore.

But once you're over the hump, stuff gives you plenty of warning.

The real question for you is...how thirsty the 2UZ-FE is. So it really depends on your commute distance.

Depending on your current payments, the extra gas will bite into that but you also don't have to carry full coverage on it, so there's savings there as well.

4 kids and two adults is basically right at the limit IMHO for a 100 Series.

The other 2UZ-FE based Toyota I didn't see in your list is the 1st Gen. Sequoia. Those are often used more lightly and the price point is lower for a good example.

My 2 cents.

 

[jmferg]

It's a conundrum. Land Cruisers are so reliable that a lot of scheduled maintenance gets overlooked, I think that's why you're seeing these big "baseline" tabs. A couple big ticket items...steering rack, WP/TB, Radiator, CV's, Brake Booster, Engine Room Block Assembly (under hood fuse and relay box) Lots of bushings that are finally perished, ball joints. A lot of guys are buying these older trucks then just taking care of everything that was put off so they don't have to worry about it anymore.

But once you're over the hump, stuff gives you plenty of warning.

The real question for you is...how thirsty the 2UZ-FE is. So it really depends on your commute distance.

Depending on your current payments, the extra gas will bite into that but you also don't have to carry full coverage on it, so there's savings there as well.

4 kids and two adults is basically right at the limit IMHO for a 100 Series.

The other 2UZ-FE based Toyota I didn't see in your list is the 1st Gen. Sequoia. Those are often used more lightly and the price point is lower for a good example.

My 2 cents.

Thanks for the feedback.
I don't mind basic maintenance as i keep my vehicle repairs ahead of any symptoms. My xterra was a bit "needy" but i also had the upgrade/mod bug. $150/month for a set of ball joints, then brakes/rotors, then belt/tensioner/idler is normal and to be expected. i am just not in a position to do the $5,000 baseline immediately.
I'm aware i will max out around 16 mpg. My work commute is 95% highway/interstate and i drive conservatively. I worded that poorly but we are two adults and two children (6 and an upcoming newborn). I like the option of a 3rd row and space for traveling.
I have been watching 1st gen sequoia's and they are equal to the cost of cruisers currently. They were actually my first choice but i can't stomach that they are the same price as a 100 series (comparing one with similar miles and options). The landcruisers seem to be MUCH more resistant to rust than my previously mentioned choices. I don't know if the japanese assembly was better with paint and galvanizing but they seem to survive the Northeast salt.
Between fuel, insurance, and maintenance, I net about $600/month and no future financial obligations.

 

[77pantera]

The landcruisers seem to be MUCH more resistant to rust than my previously mentioned choices. I don't know if the japanese assembly was better with paint and galvanizing but they seem to survive the Northeast salt.

Eh, there's a lot of rotted out hundies up here sadly. Rotted out crossmembers and frames isn't uncommon, same with rockers and doglegs on the body.
If your looking for a LX470 (or 06/07 LC) and want to retain AHC, make sure the lines aren't rotted out. #1 killer of AHC is rotted out lines.

Not to hijack, if your looking for a rust free LX470 from out west in your price range, and in the same state, mine will be for sale very shorty. I joined the 200 club on Friday and sadly have to sell my hundy

 

[Bisho]

You won't get 16mpg unless you're driving 55mph. For an unmodded truck, without a lead foot, you can get 15mpg reliably. You start to mod it with armor and tires and your getting 12-13 before long. If you do the math, even with your commute, the extra gas doesn't justify another car, though.

I think many on this forum are pretty particular about their trucks. Folks like to fix oil leaks and creaky suspensions and use OEM parts. I go into the back country a lot, solo, and don't like to risk it, so I keep up on things. The 100 generally gives you plenty of warning you ought to fix something, though. There is rarely a need to immediately sink a lot into these before you can enjoy it, but over time, because you'll fall in love with it, you'll find yourself fixing things and keeping it nice.

 

[jmferg]

Eh, there's a lot of rotted out hundies up here sadly. Rotted out crossmembers and frames isn't uncommon, same with rockers and doglegs on the body.
If your looking for a LX470 (or 06/07 LC) and want to retain AHC, make sure the lines aren't rotted out. #1 killer of AHC is rotted out lines.

Not to hijack, if your looking for a rust free LX470 from out west in your price range, and in the same state, mine will be for sale very shorty. I joined the 200 club on Friday and sadly have to sell my hundy

Retaining the AHC seems beneficial from most people that daily them stockish. How many miles does yours have?

You won't get 16mpg unless you're driving 55mph. For an unmodded truck, without a lead foot, you can get 15mpg reliably. You start to mod it with armor and tires and your getting 12-13 before long. If you do the math, even with your commute, the extra gas doesn't justify another car, though.

I think many on this forum are pretty particular about their trucks. Folks like to fix oil leaks and creaky suspensions and use OEM parts. I go into the back country a lot, solo, and don't like to risk it, so I keep up on things. The 100 generally gives you plenty of warning you ought to fix something, though. There is rarely a need to immediately sink a lot into these before you can enjoy it, but over time, because you'll fall in love with it, you'll find yourself fixing things and keeping it nice.

I feel a little affirmed with me assumption that LC owners are a bit obsessive with maintenance. I generally treat mine with preventative maintenance rather than reactive maintenance.

Completely unrelated, but my 3rd gen tacoma is rough on my back. i installed the seat jackers and padded seat covers to no avail. if i keep it, i'm getting Corbeau seats. How are the 100 series seats from a comfort and lower back support point?

 

[Bisho]

Retaining the AHC seems beneficial from most people that daily them stockish. How many miles does yours have?


I feel a little affirmed with me assumption that LC owners are a bit obsessive with maintenance. I generally treat mine with preventative maintenance rather than reactive maintenance.

Completely unrelated, but my 3rd gen tacoma is rough on my back. i installed the seat jackers and padded seat covers to no avail. if i keep it, i'm getting Corbeau seats. How are the 100 series seats from a comfort and lower back support point?

The 100 is one of the only vehicles I've ever had that I can drive all day and not have a sore back. Now, my wife, on the other hand, does not like the seat, but she has a Jeep, so the smooth ride, elbow room and comfort are foreign to her.

 

[77pantera]

Retaining the AHC seems beneficial from most people that daily them stockish. How many miles does yours have?


How are the 100 series seats from a comfort and lower back support point?

AHC is fantastic. Honestly, no matter what you buy, I'd look for the least modified example you can find. When I was searching, I settled on this one as it was 100% bone stock. Lot's of peoples "overlanding" projects for sale out there, not my cup of tea. 212k, bought @ 201k. I've driven it to SoCal, and to Key West just a few weeks ago. TB was done in 2020 35k ago. The whole point of a LC/LX, is you don't have to worry, you turn the key and go. Like Bisho said, few things just fail, you get plenty of warning before hand.

Seats are super comfy. I've driven 1000+ miles straight no issues.

 

[rexington14]

You won't get 16mpg unless you're driving 55mph. For an unmodded truck, without a lead foot, you can get 15mpg reliably.

I've gotten better on the highway. I can hit 18 MPG on highway road trips, and that's probably averaging about 70-72mph. I live in the right lane.

I just checked my Fuelly logs from last fall up until now (winter blend gas) and I averaged 15.2 MPG. Total split I've logged as 58% highway / 42% city.

Note this is completely stock (05 LC with 5 speed trans) and properly maintained (plugs, fluids, clean TB, new MAF, new engine air filter, etc), running Michelin Defender's inflated to spec.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

If you’re going to be doing most if not all of the work, for the price and condition of that 2005 is actually a good deal, looks like it has minimal or no rust. And you will end up just spending on OEM wear and tear parts, of course you replace these parts as needed or based off preventative time lines (mileage and years). Rust can be the root of all expensive problems on a 100 series so this specific unit you shared is already an advantage, hoping there is no hidden engine issues. And yes the 2UZ is as bad as it gets in MPG in today’s standards. But this platform is also the reason why the 100 is so popular in the middle east for reliability, timeliness look, IFS comfort, AWD anywhere anytime drivetrain, low end torque and of course it’s off road capabilities like A-TRAC, beefier tie rods, beefier lower control arms, beefier ring and pinion, beefier axles, robust T-Case and it being classified as a full-size suv/wagon - the interior space. I think the $10k cost to baseline from what you’ve read is based from OTD prices parts + labor from independent shops, I certainly did not spend that much to baseline mine in parts under the bonnet alone which I do all the mechanical work on my 06LX.

 

[Kabanstva]

you wanna talk about downsize cost yo ubuy a sienna bud.

 

[LC Lurker]

If you like the 100 then grab one. Don’t sweat it. Assume you pay $5k in maintenance annually on a paid off 100 Series, that’s about $400 per month - lower than most people’s auto loans. Btw, I doubt you’ll pay that much on maintenance, I’m just throwing a bad case number out there.

You’ll be fine. Just find one with minimal/no rust and good service history (recent timing belt, water pump, cv boots, fluid flushes, etc). Get a ppi too.

Life is too short to drive a vehicle that you don’t enjoy.

Edit: My info screen says I got 17.2 mpg on my last highway trip (mostly flat, some small hills). No mods on my LX470 and I was running 93 octane. Probably still on winter gas here in Massachusetts but I’m not sure.

 

[baltistyle]

This is really just going to be a math exercise for you personally. If for instance, your current truck costs you 7000 per year and your new truck cost you 20 grand cash all in, it’s going to take you at least three years to get on the right side of things. The financial benefit of a used vehicle doesn’t normally pay off until you have a few years into it. Drive a bit fast and you’ll be at 11mpg stock.

Since this is about family and savings for you, do you really need a 4 x 4 and could you live with a minivan that is newer and perhaps safer. I completely disagree with the poster about reducing coverage on a vehicle that has four young children in it and a wife….. it’s time to get something appropriate versus cool. Save now, buy later.

 

[Couvi]

We have an 04 LC (mine) and an 05 Sequoia (wife’s) and 4 kids. Sequoia is a fantastic road trip vehicle, so much space and drives buttery smooth. I’ve been driving my LC for 10 years, it’s stock - I commute 24 miles a day on the interstate and get about 330-350 miles per tank if I push it. I’m at 267k and wouldn’t want any other vehicle — so comfortable, solid as a bank vault and safe. I can’t recommend the 100 series enough — my oldest son just bought one the same year with 100k less miles. Love ‘em.

 

[Coin]

Consider the time you will spend away from your family while doing your own maintenance. Is that car parment and no/little maintenance worth more time with the family? It might be.

But the budget may be more important now.

 

[Kabanstva]

Consider the time you will spend away from your family while doing your own maintenance. Is that car parment and no/little maintenance worth more time with the family? It might be.

But the budget may be more important now.

This is a big one. Spend the week researching forums and hunting down parts. Sometimes spend weeks or months waiting for parts. Spend weekends installing parts.

It’s basically a part time job

 

[Exiled]

I think the stories of people spending $10K to baseline their rigs are not as common as you may think, and likely the result of severely neglected rigs now in the hands of a dedicated enthusiast. Like any old truck, a 100 series will require attention and if you want the vehicle to be as reliable as they are legendary for, you'll want to use mostly OEM parts and those aren't cheap.
One of my 100s has 250K miles and I used it as a hunting/camping rig, going into remote areas. I wouldn't hesitate to jump in it tomorrow to go to Alaska. It does NOT get 15MPG as currently modified, even on highway miles (admittedly, I have a heavy foot and Texas speed limits are liberal). More like 11-12MPG for daily use.

As others have pointed out, this is a financial exercise for you. The current market for 100s is soft and favors buyers. Lots of 100s out there if you take your time and I would focus primarily on rust-free areas. I think you can get a good one for under $15K but you should plan for some immediate baselining. I personally prefer older 100s but I'd recommend you focus on the newer ones (VVTI, 5-speed) as they tend to get better mileage, have a little more power and are likely to have less miles. I would also look at 1st gen Sequoias as others have pointed out, given your family dynamics. I think 4.7-equipped 4Runners and GXs are too small for your needs.

 

[jmferg]

AHC is fantastic. Honestly, no matter what you buy, I'd look for the least modified example you can find. When I was searching, I settled on this one as it was 100% bone stock. Lot's of peoples "overlanding" projects for sale out there, not my cup of tea. 212k, bought @ 201k. I've driven it to SoCal, and to Key West just a few weeks ago. TB was done in 2020 35k ago. The whole point of a LC/LX, is you don't have to worry, you turn the key and go. Like Bisho said, few things just fail, you get plenty of warning before hand.

Seats are super comfy. I've driven 1000+ miles straight no issues.

I may follow-up with you on this.

If you’re going to be doing most if not all of the work, for the price and condition of that 2005 is actually a good deal, looks like it has minimal or no rust. And you will end up just spending on OEM wear and tear parts, of course you replace these parts as needed or based off preventative time lines (mileage and years). Rust can be the root of all expensive problems on a 100 series so this specific unit you shared is already an advantage, hoping there is no hidden engine issues. And yes the 2UZ is as bad as it gets in MPG in today’s standards. But this platform is also the reason why the 100 is so popular in the middle east for reliability, timeliness look, IFS comfort, AWD anywhere anytime drivetrain, low end torque and of course it’s off road capabilities like A-TRAC, beefier tie rods, beefier lower control arms, beefier ring and pinion, beefier axles, robust T-Case and it being classified as a full-size suv/wagon - the interior space. I think the $10k cost to baseline from what you’ve read is based from OTD prices parts + labor from independent shops, I certainly did not spend that much to baseline mine in parts under the bonnet alone which I do all the mechanical work on my 06LX.

you wanna talk about downsize cost yo ubuy a sienna bud.

My closest friend hunts out of his subaru outback. We've hauled countless deer in the back of it. He bird hunts with a 70lb Bracco too. Things a mess though. Muddy, mildew-y, dog hair everywhere. Without dedicate snow/offroad tires, it has got us into some dangerous predicaments though.

This is really just going to be a math exercise for you personally. If for instance, your current truck costs you 7000 per year and your new truck cost you 20 grand cash all in, it’s going to take you at least three years to get on the right side of things. The financial benefit of a used vehicle doesn’t normally pay off until you have a few years into it. Drive a bit fast and you’ll be at 11mpg stock.

Since this is about family and savings for you, do you really need a 4 x 4 and could you live with a minivan that is newer and perhaps safer. I completely disagree with the poster about reducing coverage on a vehicle that has four young children in it and a wife….. it’s time to get something appropriate versus cool. Save now, buy later.

I am debating on buying a $2,000 beater and selling my truck while i can. With a commuter, i can be prepared to buy when "the one" comes up for sale.
My $5,000 in positive equity shriveled to about $1,000 in 60 days. This is a big factor i'm watching. I had an offer from a local dealer to buy out right in January for $32,900. Last night, i resubmitted and that offer was $25,000.


I hunt a lot in upstate NY. Most is accessed public land on unmaintained seasonal roads. All my vehicles have had my ARB compressor. Atleast once a year, i have to air down to single digit pressures to safety make it around on snow/ice pack conditions. We still go remote camping and go beach camping on the weekends so something with a low range transfer case is nice. I don't want to be overheating an AWD system with my small camper in tow.

Consider the time you will spend away from your family while doing your own maintenance. Is that car parment and no/little maintenance worth more time with the family? It might be.

But the budget may be more important now.

This is a big one question area. This is dedicated time that I have thoroughly enjoyed the past year. I have all the tools, presses, pullers, etc to do my own work. I remember in high school taking my truck apart and not being able to get it back together on a school night. I had to ask my father for help at 10pm. He said, "it's good to know how to do your own work but one day you won't want to. you'll be exhausted after work and have a family to take care of." Realistically the tacoma won't need any major repairs for another 3 years.

rough financials.
36 month cost of ownership. This assumes:
-22,000 miles/yr on the both with no major repairs (transmission/engine replacement, head gaskets, etc)
-increased cost for fuel on LC
-$2,400/yr for LC maintenance and upkeep.
-Current "over payments" on track for payoff early (Tacoma)
-Excess $600/yr for misc maintenance and upkeep (aside from fluid/filter changes and tires). (Tacoma)

100 series: $14,025
current Tacoma: $36,000

During the 36 month period, i save about $600/month and have an asset vs a debt.
At the end of the 36 months I will have "saved" about $22,000, I have an owned truck worth roughly $22,000 vs an owned LC worth safely $8,000. I will have a tacoma with 125,000 miles vs a 100 series with 266,000 miles.

 

[chuckscap]

I may follow-up with you on this.



My closest friend hunts out of his subaru outback. We've hauled countless deer in the back of it. He bird hunts with a 70lb Bracco too. Things a mess though. Muddy, mildew-y, dog hair everywhere. Without dedicate snow/offroad tires, it has got us into some dangerous predicaments though.


I am debating on buying a $2,000 beater and selling my truck while i can. With a commuter, i can be prepared to buy when "the one" comes up for sale.
My $5,000 in positive equity shriveled to about $1,000 in 60 days. This is a big factor i'm watching. I had an offer from a local dealer to buy out right in January for $32,900. Last night, i resubmitted and that offer was $25,000.


I hunt a lot in upstate NY. Most is accessed public land on unmaintained seasonal roads. All my vehicles have had my ARB compressor. Atleast once a year, i have to air down to single digit pressures to safety make it around on snow/ice pack conditions. We still go remote camping and go beach camping on the weekends so something with a low range transfer case is nice. I don't want to be overheating an AWD system with my small camper in tow.


This is a big one question area. This is dedicated time that I have thoroughly enjoyed the past year. I have all the tools, presses, pullers, etc to do my own work. I remember in high school taking my truck apart and not being able to get it back together on a school night. I had to ask my father for help at 10pm. He said, "it's good to know how to do your own work but one day you won't want to. you'll be exhausted after work and have a family to take care of." Realistically the tacoma won't need any major repairs for another 3 years.

rough financials.
36 month cost of ownership. This assumes:
-22,000 miles/yr on the both with no major repairs (transmission/engine replacement, head gaskets, etc)
-increased cost for fuel on LC
-$2,400/yr for LC maintenance and upkeep.
-Current "over payments" on track for payoff early (Tacoma)
-Excess $600/yr for misc maintenance and upkeep (aside from fluid/filter changes and tires). (Tacoma)

100 series: $14,025
current Tacoma: $36,000

During the 36 month period, i save about $600/month and have an asset vs a debt.
At the end of the 36 months I will have "saved" about $22,000, I have an owned truck worth roughly $22,000 vs an owned LC worth safely $8,000. I will have a tacoma with 125,000 miles vs a 100 series with 266,000 miles.

I paid $6600 for my 2000 LX470 10 years ago. I probably have 4k into maintenance (timing chain, spark plugs, muffler, brakes) the rest of the money I put into I blame on this forum lol. (sliders, skid plates, rear bumper) I have about 15k total into and got 6k for hail damage. Paid cash, no payments, very reliable and capable vehicle 19 mpg highway 15 mpg around town.

 

[medtro]

I paid $6600 for my 2000 LX470 10 years ago. I probably have 4k into maintenance (timing chain, spark plugs, muffler, brakes) the rest of the money I put into I blame on this forum lol. (sliders, skid plates, rear bumper) I have about 15k total into and got 6k for hail damage. Paid cash, no payments, very reliable and capable vehicle 19 mpg highway 15 mpg around town.

What is the trick for 19 mpg highway 15 mpg around town with sliders, skid plates, rear bumper?