Lucky for you the front shocks are already assembled... cutting your job time down significantly. I think with a spacer and the 99 springs it will sit perfectly with the bumper on there.
Introducing my 98 4Runner DD. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jynx
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finaly found some time to go thru your build and catch up a bit, cant wait to see that bumper painted and installed. very nice rig all around.
- Thread starter
- #83
Thanks man, I need to get some good pictures of the interior since I have all the seats done now.
And yeah the shocks being assembled is why I decided to go with the short top spacers instead of the taller ones that take new studs (thanks for the offer Jason). They should be here tomorrow along with my bumper paint. I got the railing mostly finished up on my deck project tonight, so I hope to steal a little time to sand and prime and paint this weekend.
Question to you guys who have fooled with it before, about how long will it take me to swap the from coilovers out for the new ones? I really want to get them on before I mount the bumper, that way I can have the alignment done with the front sitting at the new ride height.
The bumper install is going to force some wiring since the light bar will need power, so that will be on deck so to speak.
And all that to get done and I HAVE to get the battery and wiring taken care of on the 80 before our little trip to GMP in a couple weeks. So much to do, so little time...
I also haven't had any little red boxes show up lately, I think I may be having with-drawl, I may need to call Sam to get my fix..
And yeah the shocks being assembled is why I decided to go with the short top spacers instead of the taller ones that take new studs (thanks for the offer Jason). They should be here tomorrow along with my bumper paint. I got the railing mostly finished up on my deck project tonight, so I hope to steal a little time to sand and prime and paint this weekend.
Question to you guys who have fooled with it before, about how long will it take me to swap the from coilovers out for the new ones? I really want to get them on before I mount the bumper, that way I can have the alignment done with the front sitting at the new ride height.
The bumper install is going to force some wiring since the light bar will need power, so that will be on deck so to speak.
And all that to get done and I HAVE to get the battery and wiring taken care of on the 80 before our little trip to GMP in a couple weeks. So much to do, so little time...
I also haven't had any little red boxes show up lately, I think I may be having with-drawl, I may need to call Sam to get my fix..
Thanks man, I need to get some good pictures of the interior since I have all the seats done now.
And yeah the shocks being assembled is why I decided to go with the short top spacers instead of the taller ones that take new studs (thanks for the offer Jason). They should be here tomorrow along with my bumper paint. I got the railing mostly finished up on my deck project tonight, so I hope to steal a little time to sand and prime and paint this weekend.
Question to you guys who have fooled with it before, about how long will it take me to swap the from coilovers out for the new ones? I really want to get them on before I mount the bumper, that way I can have the alignment done with the front sitting at the new ride height.
The bumper install is going to force some wiring since the light bar will need power, so that will be on deck so to speak.
And all that to get done and I HAVE to get the battery and wiring taken care of on the 80 before our little trip to GMP in a couple weeks. So much to do, so little time...
I also haven't had any little red boxes show up lately, I think I may be having with-drawl, I may need to call Sam to get my fix..
If you're swapping the front coilovers only, it can be done in 2hr if you're quick.
Chock, jack, stands
Pull front wheels
Loosen UCA bolts (makes this much easier IMO- no prying the arms down this way)
Remove coilover top nuts
Remove bottom nut/bolt
Coilover is free
Install in reverse, tighten UCA bolts at ride height. Wham bam thank you ma'am.
Couple hours is about rite. I never thought of freeing up the UCA I've always just pried it down I've wound up with busted knuckles or worse every time danger danger I will be looking in to that next time I just hope next time is a long way off for me.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
It definitely helps. In addition, if you're installing a decent sized top spacer (1") or extended shock (OME or 5100) I'd loosen the LCA bolts too, so you don't tear the bushings. I killed two LCA bushings when I swapped suspension the first time from prying the LCA's down.
- Thread starter
- #87
Cool. I saw a youtube vid of a guy unbolting the LCA and just swinging it down out of the way, then ubolting the top of the CO and dropping it out the bottom, the right back in with the new. He was on a post lift but would that matter? I am thinking if I were to go that route I would just replace the lower ball joints while I was at it. Seems like a good time to do it.
Also spacers came in today and my paint. Can't speak to the color match yet, but was a bit upset with the rest. I was expecting some special primer for the price I paid... NOPE just duplicolor filler/primer and duplicolor clear. I emailed them and will be returning the clear and primer. Heck even after buying all of it again from summit racing and the parts store I am still going to save over half what I spent with paintscratch.
I will test the color this afternoon and report back. It better match d@M^ good or I am going to be UNHAPPY!!
Also spacers came in today and my paint. Can't speak to the color match yet, but was a bit upset with the rest. I was expecting some special primer for the price I paid... NOPE just duplicolor filler/primer and duplicolor clear. I emailed them and will be returning the clear and primer. Heck even after buying all of it again from summit racing and the parts store I am still going to save over half what I spent with paintscratch.
I will test the color this afternoon and report back. It better match d@M^ good or I am going to be UNHAPPY!!
The LCA works too... BUT... it's a huge PITA to unbolt. Then again, if your ride height will be going up much they'll need loosening and then tighten at ride height anyway.
And the LBJ's are great to do now, but will add about an hour each side. You'll have to pull the brakes and backing plates off to pop the LBJ out. But if they need doing, now's the time to do it.
- Thread starter
- #89
Showing my ignorance of the 3rd gen again... why will they need to be unbolted? Are you talking about getting the LBJ unbolted/ adjusted or is there something else that has to be adjusted?
Just loosening the LCA (lower control arm) is a bitch. You have to move the steering rack and use a big socket on an impact. Not fun. And if the ride height changes, my opinion is that the control arm bushings should be indexed to sit neutral at ride height. The bushings flex when the arm rotates and they shouldn't be constantly flexed while sitting at ride height.
The LBJ (lower ball joint) isn't bad, just remove the brakes and backing plates, pop out the LBJ from the control arm, pop out the Tie Rod End, then remove the 4 bolts on the LBJ.
- Thread starter
- #91
So, because I don't feel like crawling under the truck right now, based on what your telling me, the LCA uses degreed can bolts to set caster and camber like the 86-95 gen IFS rigs, correct? So any good alignment shop should reset them while doing an alignment?
I always end up over-thinking simple projects, but if I am looking at the LBJ while I am under there, and the steering rack is right there, maybe I should pick up some steering rack poly bushings to throw in there too.
I always end up over-thinking simple projects, but if I am looking at the LBJ while I am under there, and the steering rack is right there, maybe I should pick up some steering rack poly bushings to throw in there too.
Yes, the LCA has the eccentric cams to set camber (and caster somewhat) and the bushing sits around the cam tube. When doing an alignment at ride height, they will end up getting reset at that time.
Since you're only installing a shock assembly that's 1/4" longer due to the spacer you can most likely get away with leaving the LCA bushings alone and waiting for the alignment shop to loosen/tighten them at your new ride height.
And if you haven't done the poly rack bushings I would recommend them. Cheap, easy way to tighten up your steering. It's a quick job too.
I agree with Mr Chuck Norris, the rack bushing are an easy r and r job, I did mine when I did my front end rebuild. Wheeler off road sells the most complete kit for around 20 bucks. I'm thinking about doing the newer style rack guide bushings (inside the rack) on my, after changing everything in the front I've still got a slight rattle somewhere.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
Did you weld/pin the steering shaft slip-joint?
No I'm not familiar with that. I guess some research is in order.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
I have pics of it in my thread, you can install a roll pin like I did or tack weld the shaft.
If you look under your dash you'll see the steering shaft. Grab it with vice grips and hold it tight, then turn the steering wheel side to side. You'll feel the slop in the shaft if there is any.
- Thread starter
- #97
I remember reading that in your thread. You did a lot of work trying to tighten up your steering if I recall.
Checked out your thread. Thanks for the info I will have to dig into it when I get a chance.
Sent from my detachment from reality.
- Thread starter
- #100
Minor update, got the bumper drilled for the light bar and got it all primed up. Now just have to find a weekend to block it and put down the color and clear.
