Intro Xml325 38.5's with no lift 80
- Thread starter Lcshack
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So about how long is the "bed?" I've always wanted to see one of these keep open wheel wells for full stuff with the giant rubber like how they are on short course/baja trucks...
- Thread starter
- #123
I'll have to measure to see what bed length it ended up with, feel like it is longer than my tacoma ' s short box.
I will not be leaving the well open, just haven't fabbed the passenger side up yet.
So far with the bigger wells it will just start rubbing at full compression.
- Thread starter
- #124
The one thing that I really just never cared for on my 80 is the front grill and headlights.
I now have a blank canvas to do something different, any ideas on what you would ?
I once thought about bobbing the front by deleting the clutch fan to allow moving the core support/ radiator ,adding an electric push fan. Then shorten the hood and fenders to fit. This would shorten the front by 3 to 5 inches and put the tires in front of the body and possibly the frame horns. Thoughts?
I now have a blank canvas to do something different, any ideas on what you would ?
I once thought about bobbing the front by deleting the clutch fan to allow moving the core support/ radiator ,adding an electric push fan. Then shorten the hood and fenders to fit. This would shorten the front by 3 to 5 inches and put the tires in front of the body and possibly the frame horns. Thoughts?
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
fj80 with fj60 grill - Google Search
But slide it all back the 5 inches and narrow the front with some flat fenders!! My MS Paint skills don't allow for a rendition.
But slide it all back the 5 inches and narrow the front with some flat fenders!! My MS Paint skills don't allow for a rendition.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Here you go! Front bob. 
But ditch the fenders and replace with flat fenders!
But ditch the fenders and replace with flat fenders!
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Or maybe you drop a widened front FJ40 clip in there with some flat fenders. That would really take some doin'! but you don't seem like you mind.
Just stick a 'pinched' FJ45-esk body on it. Then 40s will clear lock to lock at full bump no problem if you get the backspacing right....
P.S. Don't do that, it's a ton of work!
If you have a second. Could you measure the distance on the front axle from the bumpstop pad to the metal lip on the bumpstop cup? Thank you. I am just just looking for a reference measurement of what 'stock' is.
P.S. Don't do that, it's a ton of work!
If you have a second. Could you measure the distance on the front axle from the bumpstop pad to the metal lip on the bumpstop cup? Thank you. I am just just looking for a reference measurement of what 'stock' is.
- Thread starter
- #130
Just stick a 'pinched' FJ45-esk body on it. Then 40s will clear lock to lock at full bump no problem if you get the backspacing right....
P.S. Don't do that, it's a ton of work!
If you have a second. Could you measure the distance on the front axle from the bumpstop pad to the metal lip on the bumpstop cup? Thank you. I am just just looking for a reference measurement of what 'stock' is.
Mine looks to be 1 3/4"
- Thread starter
- #131
I keep thinking about and 05 er so tacoma grill and lights
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
What do you figure your use to be like once 'finished'?
I ask as projectors / HID's / whatever - if this is going to be rocked the snot out of on excursions, I wouldn't go suggesting big $$$ grill & headlight treatment.
Honestly Treeroot's grill he made had enough bling, and you're probably hiding 2/3 of the front behind a Iron bumper, right?
I ask as projectors / HID's / whatever - if this is going to be rocked the snot out of on excursions, I wouldn't go suggesting big $$$ grill & headlight treatment.
Honestly Treeroot's grill he made had enough bling, and you're probably hiding 2/3 of the front behind a Iron bumper, right?
Do you have a pictures? It's only 1.75" from the metal bump pad to the metal lip on the bumpstop cup? As in you only have 1.75" uptravel before the axle would stop on metal?
- Thread starter
- #134
I measured the bottom of the rubber bump located inside of the coilspring to the metal contact pad. You want metal (above the rubber) to metal to metal measurement?
As long as I know what the measurement was that works, thank you. I think measuring from metal to metal is more accurate in the end. The rubber parts tend to wear over time and whatnot. This is on a stock 80-series? No extra front weight like a bumper or winch?
- Thread starter
- #136
That is interesting that is at some reduced weight. If I remember right the stock bumpstop allows about 2.5" of uptravel if you where to compress it all the way into the metal cup. That would make for about 4.25" uptravel metal to metal. I don't know if the front suspension could ever get that compressed with the factory bumpstop in place, but the suspension will compress that far without anything else hitting.
I pulled the bumpstops on mine and have been building the chassis out at full metal to metal bump in an effort to make sure everything clears. Eventually, I may replace the rubber factory bumpstops with some kind of air bump....
I pulled the bumpstops on mine and have been building the chassis out at full metal to metal bump in an effort to make sure everything clears. Eventually, I may replace the rubber factory bumpstops with some kind of air bump....
- Thread starter
- #138
That is interesting that is at some reduced weight. If I remember right the stock bumpstop allows about 2.5" of uptravel if you where to compress it all the way into the metal cup. That would make for about 4.25" uptravel metal to metal. I don't know if the front suspension could ever get that compressed with the factory bumpstop in place, but the suspension will compress that far without anything else hitting.
I pulled the bumpstops on mine and have been building the chassis out at full metal to metal bump in an effort to make sure everything clears. Eventually, I may replace the rubber factory bumpstops with some kind of air bump....
So basically you are saying with coils pulled out and this thing resting on the metal to metal "bumpstop" everything would still clear? That is crazy!! Would ther be any other factory built suspension that would allow that!?
I'm guessing my factory springs a sagging not sure but from the front end I currently have removed the following parts and pcs:
Abs gone
Cruise control gone
Both inner fenders gone and some of the core support.
Both fenders trimmed
All the lights
Grill bumper
For weight loss on the front I guess having the pass seat out and sun roof out counts to. I have no idea how much weight that equates to but it still sits low in the front
This low stance is awesome. Can't wait to see what happens on the flex side of things!!!
It is close, but yes both ends clear with the bumpstops removed. On the rear I left the outer hard rubber stops on the the frame, but removed the inner large cone units. I think the front stops are designed to almost completely disappear into the metal cup. I didn't want to build the car around a maybe, so I made sure to set everything with the suspension metal to metal.
