Intro: 3rd Gen Sequoia (2 Viewers)

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I generally have the 3rd row seat folded down. I haven't had alot of fuss accessing the storage underneath the shelf.

One thing I wish the cargo had more of is, tight down points (for coolers and what not). I have been using the flimsy metal ones in the back and the car seat anchors so far.
I agree with this, and have mainly come across the issue while transporting lumber short distances. I currently have to:
(1) open the glass hatch and put a brass carousel ring in the latch to stop incessant buzzing while driving
(2) feed my tie down hooks to the corners of the vehicle first so that I can access them (or use loop straps), and then do the same to the bottom tracks of the front seats
(3) pad the plastic trim on the bottom of the hatch frame so that it doesn't distort from the force of the boards.

I also use the roof rack for lumber but sometimes it is raining or just easier to throw it in the cabin, etc so I want this capability.

I am currently working on a roof rack project, but my next one is two-fold: a small modular storage system that fills the space behind the 3rd row when folded down, and also provides new tie down points, plus a mountable bracket that goes higher than the bottom of the hatch frame and holds the weight.
 
can 4x8 sheets of plywood / sheetrock fit when all the seats are down? Would be handy for rainy days
Width-wise yes, but length-wise not unless maybe the front seats are moved very far forward. I am 6'3" and with the driver seat all the way back, I can only fit ~80" to the hatch. The glass hatch is also only 44" wide, so can't even fit it out the window.

However I got very good at roof transporting sheet material with my FJ Cruiser, so I just do that for plywood.
 
Width-wise yes, but length-wise not unless maybe the front seats are moved very far forward. I am 6'3" and with the driver seat all the way back, I can only fit ~80" to the hatch. The glass hatch is also only 44" wide, so can't even fit it out the window.

However I got very good at roof transporting sheet material with my FJ Cruiser, so I just do that for plywood.
all good, was just curious. I've got a Tacoma that can handle it but it's the same thing, sheets hanging out the back.
 
So did any of you with the CBI covert bumper install a winch? If so, how did you route the cables to the battery?
 
So did any of you with the CBI covert bumper install a winch? If so, how did you route the cables to the battery?
Haven't don't it yet, but planning on fabbing a mount for marine bus bars in the engine bay to connect to. This would only power source for the winch and compressor- those wires would be heavy gauge and run the length of the vehicle back to the rear battery where I'd put in a switch to kill all power forward :
Screenshot_20231101-225746.png
 
Haven't don't it yet, but planning on fabbing a mount for marine bus bars in the engine bay to connect to. This would only power source for the winch and compressor- those wires would be heavy gauge and run the length of the vehicle back to the rear battery where I'd put in a switch to kill all power forward :
View attachment 3470884
Makes sense. Is that image from someone's show rig? I am likely not doing a compressor this time, so wasn't planning to do bus bars up front, but it would certainly be good for any unknown future projects. I'm mainly trying to figure out how to run the 2/0 cables to the winch. 20 years ago I would just run them up the rails, but with all the sensitive electronics in these machines I'm worried about the EM induction through the rail.


I didn't think I was going to be doing this any time soon, but the November sales on CBI gear are pretty attractive...getting an itchy click finger near the check out button.
 
Makes sense. Is that image from someone's show rig? I am likely not doing a compressor this time, so wasn't planning to do bus bars up front, but it would certainly be good for any unknown future projects. I'm mainly trying to figure out how to run the 2/0 cables to the winch. 20 years ago I would just run them up the rails, but with all the sensitive electronics in these machines I'm worried about the EM induction through the rail.


I didn't think I was going to be doing this any time soon, but the November sales on CBI gear are pretty attractive...getting an itchy click finger near the check out button.
CBI's labor day sales got me good for their front covert bumper.
 
Haven't don't it yet, but planning on fabbing a mount for marine bus bars in the engine bay to connect to. This would only power source for the winch and compressor- those wires would be heavy gauge and run the length of the vehicle back to the rear battery where I'd put in a switch to kill all power forward :
View attachment 3470884
I pulled the trigger on the bumper so now planning my install (for whenever the bumper eventually arrives). Until watching this Dissent Offroad video, I hadn't realized that Toyota added a 250A-rated current sensor between the negative battery post and the chassis, which means that to avoid current bypass around the sensor from the chassis through the winch and the negative cable back to the battery, we actually have to add isolator relays to both winch cables.

You may have already known this, but it was news to me....


DissentBattery.jpg
 
...Toyota added a 250A-rated current sensor between the negative battery post and the chassis...

You may have already known this, but it was news to me....
Oh yea, thx for reminding me...I knew of it but forgot to plan for it!

I want that Dissent bumper so bad...I hope they figure out all the sensor woes...I think secretly, that's why I'm stalling on the CBI install.. 😂

Their bully bar is over the front radar so mounting aux lighting would be no issue, the CBI bar is under, which is my only concern with putting aux up there .. I don't want radar warning lights all over the dash
 
Oh yea, thx for reminding me...I knew of it but forgot to plan for it!

I want that Dissent bumper so bad...I hope they figure out all the sensor woes...I think secretly, that's why I'm stalling on the CBI install.. 😂

Their bully bar is over the front radar so mounting aux lighting would be no issue, the CBI bar is under, which is my only concern with putting aux up there .. I don't want radar warning lights all over the dash

Yeah, I added the CBI bar to the order, but not yet sure I will throw it on. Going for stealth look-- had actually been considering the simple Expedition One Winch mount as well.

As far as lights, I'm surprised CBI doesn't have mounting spots behind the fluted metal areas where the bull bar mounts. That seemed like a perfect place for a couple street legal Diode Dynamics 6" LED fogs or some high powered blinders. Now that I threw a lightbar on the roof, I'm not sure I need much more light from the front, but some low yellow fogs to replace the OEMs I'll be pulling out would be nice.
 
I'm a light whore. This is my LX 😎- over kill for sure:
PXL_20210414_213400916~3.jpg
 
I'm a light whore. This is my LX 😎- over kill for sure:
View attachment 3472165
I feel ya. My FJ Cruiser had about the same, but over time I found myself in 1 of 4 modes: Regular, Brights, Regular+ Fogs for weather, and Brights + roof HID spots for nighttime desert trail running. So for this rig, I'm trying to simplify. Now, if the TRD Pro didn't already have the awesome marker lights all over it, I might be looking to add those :)
 
Are you using a threaded spring compressor yourself or taking it to a shop with a hydraulic one to swap? Are your affairs in order just in case?
Also, I love how you are exactly 2 months ahead of me. I have had an open browser tab on the Westcott lift page for about 5 days. I was going to wait until new tires in many miles but now I'm tempted to do it with the bumper.
 
Much better than most auto-shop rental garbage.
Yea I have those types too- had a spring let loose from my e46 before...decided to upgrade to a new set off Amazon. Now I just hold my breath until all nuts are buttoned up... 😆

I finished but it's dark out now so I don't have pics also don't have my after measurements. I'm strongly considering putting the 37s from my LC80 onto here wonder if the bolt pattern is the same
 
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Measurements: before /after (hub center to lower fender):
DSF: 20 1/2 / 22 1/4
DSR: 21 3/4 / 22 1/4
PSF: 20 1/2 / 22 1/4
PSR: 21 3/4 / 22 1/4

I left the top spacer off the front shock.

PXL_20231111_141640752~2.jpg
putting on the 37s in a bit to see how it looks/rides (edit: maybe not...the TRD pro wheels arent LC80 hub bore friendly, ruins my plans for potentially keeping the icon wheels and swapping TRDP to the LC wjen I sell it)
 
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