Interior lights out - RTH

[gregnash]

Last night on the way home from softball I noticed that my volt gauge seemed to be running a bit low. Got 3/4 of the way home and suddenly the stereo went out and the gauge lights started flickering. Even noticed the headlights do it once or twice. During this time the volt gauge dropped to 12v and just under but held there consistently.

As soon as I got home I checked under the hood to see if there was anything funky and when I touched the fusible link wire that goes to the positive battery cable the lights dimmed slightly and the engine rpm slowed but would return after a few seconds. I did not see if anything was happening inside the car.

Then I went and turned the engine off and the interior lights (dash, a/c console, dome, everything interior) and the running lights went out but the headlights stayed on (first head scratcher). I checked all the fuses and everything checked out fine and messed with some of the wires from the old cruiser control box that were badly spliced in and nothing changed. Since it was late I called it a night and hoped the truck would start in the morning.

So this morning I go out and she fires right up, no issues what so ever with running and the headlights work but again the interior stuff and running lights are a no go. Let her idle for a bit and then head to work to have the stereo and interior lights randomly come on here and there.

Now I can hear a buzzing/whirring from what sounds like the passenger side of the dash. I am thinking that I have a bad wire connection somewhere behind the dash and the fusible link connection may be an issue.

I will play with it more tonight but wondering what others thoughts are... oh and gauges work just fine.

 

[dbleon]

You can check for voltage drop across fissile link to rule that out... there are three or four main circuits IIRC. Looking At the components in question I would back trace the wiring starting from main branch ie. The link.

 

[R.E.M.]

Have you checked the parking light relay by the drivers side kick panel? Maybe swap it with the headlight relay to see if anything changes.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks @R.E.M. I will see about that..

Thanks @dbleon I will check that out as well. I have a feeling that the fusible link is part of the issue. I will take a pic of the questionable wiring at the + battery terminal. I do have @Fourrunner battery terminal kit with the line from the alt to the + battery terminal that I have yet to install. One of those things I just have not had the time to dedicate to it and doesnt look like it will happen this weekend either.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so here is the fusible link that I hear a slight arc coming from when I move it.

And here is the connection I was talking about earlier that I thought was a bad thing waiting to happen.

 

[dbleon]

Ya that battery terminal needs cleaned up for sure. Id start by buying a marine battery terminal and a ring terminal to solder/crimp for that connection. That is definitely a yucky/poor setup.

 

[The Machinist]

This all sounds very familiar. The buzzer noise is a low voltage alarm or something like that in the passenger kick panel. I had these problems when my alternator's voltage regulator went out, over charged and messed up my battery and almost left me stranded alone up hwy 108 last summer. (managed to make it home fine though)

Replace you voltage regulator (if you can do so on your alt), your fuseable link and take your battery in to be tested. Cleaning your battery terminals with baking soda and water (maybe a wire brush if needed) can't hurt either.

 

[gregnash]

So I went through and cleaned up a couple of wires that were electrical taped together. Thought that fixed it but now something different is happening but still think it is linked to one wire on the fusible link..

So the interior lights, gauge lights, etc now work however the stereo goes on and off. When this happens the dash lights flicker and when I shut the engine off, just to ACC not have the engine running but power to everything else, I end up losing power to everything. I located the buzzing somewhat, it is coming from the stereo but since I am out of light and have other things I need to do this will have to wait until tomorrow. I think I might either have an issue with my stereo that is causing this or there is a loose or bad connection associated with it.

In the fusible link pic, the lowest wire (cant really see it) seems to be where the arc sound is coming from when I move the link. I am thinking that may be the power wire for the ACC which controls the gauge lights etc but not the gauges or engine itself.

 

[dbleon]

Check voltage before and after each side of the FL... should be ~ 12v... if voltage drops, your link is bad or going bad (think of it as a slow burning fuse).

 

[gregnash]

Thanks DB... I will check tonight.

Odd thing happened this morning, as I was driving into work suddenly I watched my voltage gauge go up to ~13v and stay there, stereo stayed on, lights werent flickering, etc. Even when I turned the engine off and left it in ACC everything was still on. Thought to myself, ok that is weird, I didn't hit any hard bumps or anything. Proceeded to get out of the truck and realize I had forgotten my wallet and building access ID at the house so turned around and went home (I live a few miles away). When I started the truck up again, it was back to the flickering lights, stereo on the fritz, low buzz coming from the stereo, etc.

This makes me think that, again, I either have a bad ground somewhere behind the stereo or that fusible link is about toast.

 

[dbleon]

I think your on it.... Good luck

PS
get you a new battery terminal anyhow :O

 

[gregnash]

Right, I have Fourrunner's kit so I will probably take the time to install that this weekend to help alleviate that nasty connection.

 

[gregnash]

Found the issue.

Broken fusible link wire.
Now how do I fix it.

 

[gregnash]

Oh and here we go. Finally got the thing apart only to find this.

Looks like I get to figure out how to replace this with some easily accessible fusible links. I know that I have seen some guys that have replaced with normal fuses wires but can't seem to find the builds.

 

[dbleon]

Good find! simple fix... replace the part. ~$40 from Toyota IIRC

Edit, those connectors are toast...lucky you didn't get a fire.

Gonna have to find a parts rig to poach those or otherwise DIY with a BUS fuse or similar with custom wiring. Others may chime in on that...

 

[gregnash]

Guess I will have to stop by the dealership tomorrow with the part to see if they have it. That is of course on my way to the bike shop to pick up my rear wheel that needed to be tru'd and have a spoke replaced after catching my heel in it on wednesday...

 

[gregnash]

Went to the dealership today and looks like the part is still available (well at least one piece) P/N 90982-08135... Thing is that from the schematic you cant tell if it is both parts (white connector end to + battery terminal and the white connector end with wires and green connector end) or not. The parts guy couldnt figure it out either and was going to be about $60.

Can @beno, @Spike Strip, @Sam Stewart, @D'Animal or any of you guys confirm?

 

[Sam Stewart]

90982-08135 $41.85 MUD price on the fusible link, in stock in the warehouse (next day order for us)

Edit: The connector from the battery TO the fusible link is part of the positive battery cable. NLA from Toyota.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Picture is kind of generic. The FJ60 only has the one labeled as (No. 1). The (No. 2) is on an HJ or BJ.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks Sam. Much appreciated. As you can see mine is pretty much toast and no LCs in picknpull around here.

Looks like I will be replacing with generic fusible link wires to the battery terminal. Any idea on the gauge wire? Looks to be 12ga or 14ga for the two but there is a large white wire that goes to the green connector