Intake exhaust manifold repair (1 Viewer)

[Spike Strip]

It's gonna be a PITA getting the manifold assy back on with all those studs anyway. I found it much easier with the correct fastener (bolt) on the end... The bolt that Toyota has succeeded to at that spot is too long. Jim C post a good OEM substitute. 91651-61025

Also, nickel anti-seize is good.

 

[FishTacos]

Link to JimC recommended bolts for exhaust horn fore and aft bolts:

Toyota parts deal

$0.29 each. Not bad.

 

[OSS]

As Spike mentioned- if you put a stud in the very back hole of the head for the rear horn--- I don't think there will be enough room to get the manifold in position. The best solution is the bolt. Yes it's finicky to get started & tighten but I've done it numerous times - always a tight fit.

 

[FishTacos]

Bolts it is.

 

[DFXR]

I did this not too long ago and used the two center-most studs to "hang" the manifold combo in place, and then used bolts everywhere else. I kind of rested the whole thing on the exhaust downpipe connection while I was wrestling it in. Also, I loosened the exhaust hanger a little downstream from there to make this part easier. Considering how much time I spent worrying about it all, it ended up not being that bad.

One thing that mattered a lot on the two end bolts (at the horns) was that they were tapered, rather than having a hard shoulder. Makes it much easier to get them started.

 

[Spike Strip]

Those 61025 bolts aren't tapered, but what is more important is the thick, large washer to clamp as much surface as possible, and the lock washer to keep it that way.

The trick (for me anyway) is to make sure the horns are lined up with those end holes. I used a dowel to align, then it was a breeze. Just finished this a couple weeks ago.

 

[Seth_O]

X2 on the nickel anti-sieze. I use it on everything, and exhaust components get liberal amounts.

I also used 2 center studs for the manifold, and my end-bolts were both smaller and tapered. Getting it all reinstalled was quite a bit less work than I expected. I did get the manifold planed by a shop.

 

[FishTacos]

SOR kit bolt on the right (far right and second from left), Toyotasan bolt on the left.

I'm going with the Toyota bolts.

Dont buy the kit. Buy piece by piece from Toyota. Go to the dealer if you absolutely have to.

 

[Spike Strip]

The SOR pictured bolt looks like the Toyota bolt which is substituted for the NLA stock bolt. The replacement is 30mm. The OE bolt was 28mm. The 61025 bolt is 25mm. The 30mm bolt can bottom out in the threaded hole.

 

[FishTacos]

The studs seem good, at least.

Why SOR builds a kit containing second rate hardware doesn't make much sense to me. All respect to SOR for what they do....but c'mon....charge $50 and stock JIS fasteners of the proper spec. Perhaps they look more like stock hardware? Still, very few of us are doing concours stuff.

 

[Spike Strip]

I don't think there's anything wrong with the sor stuff, it's just they don't read MUD to know what's better...

 

[FishTacos]

A little scope creep here.

I got a replacement cat. Cheaped out a little but I figure it is better that going without one.

Got some weld on flanges:

2 1/8" center hole. Required a little filing to fit nicely.

Fit the down tube back to the truck after a rough fit of the flanges:

Also to the cat:

Rough fit just required a few taps with a hammer to get aligned nicely.

 

[FishTacos]

Welded them up:

I'm not a particularly good welder but I still had a victory beer.

Fit is pretty nice if I do say so myself.

 

[FishTacos]

Fixtured into my friend's Kearney & Trucker horizontal mill. 8 inch fly cutter in this operation. I have a video I will post soon. Just have to upload it to YouTube.

Point of interest:

Cyanoacrylate (aka super glue) was the ultimate solution for fixing the horns in place. This necessitated VERY light cuts on each pass. He didn't take more than 0.010" on any one cut. The first two were 0.005" just to be sure we didn't have any movement. Worked beautifully. He said that if he had 5 to do he would build a fixture that captures the horns via the heat shield bolt holes.

Usually he is building parts for MRI machines with his cnc line. Bores him to death. He was happy to have an excuse to be running one of his 5 or 6 WWII era manual machines.

Couple more pics farther along:

Last one is just before the finishing cut.

Whole process took about 2 hours.

 

[Infinity00]

That looks amazing! Thanks for posting the picture. After I described what everyone says to do to my machinist, I’m pretty sure he just put it on a belt sander - and it’s a fairly reputable shop - the work was terrible. I’m a little green with envy. Your friend set that up right for you. Super glue, huh. Lol

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Super glue is pretty red neck ingenious. Will you then pour acetone into the gaps to relieve them?
And slow and steady wins the race.

 

[FishTacos]

Super glue is pretty red neck ingenious. Will you then pour acetone into the gaps to relieve them?
And slow and steady wins the race.

Actually, a little heat gun and soft headed hammer they came right apart. I was skeptical of the super glue technique but it worked like a charm. Fixturing would be the ideal. You could save an hour for the whole process.