Installing OME Caster Correction Bushings

[citadel]

Guys,

I tried to find a good write up on installing the OME caster correction bushings but came up short....

Any ideas or hints?

Wanted to take my '97 to Bearden's (Austin) to get these bushings installed and I am pretty sure they havent installed these before....

2.5 med. lift currently.

 

[DuManchu]

I've always wondered how someone at home could do this accurately. Would be a great addition to the FAQ if someone has the info.

 

[landtank]

to get the maximum from the bushings they need to be installed with the front bushing hole up, the rear bushing hole down with a distance of 7.30" (7 1/4" will work) between the holes centers with the hash marks that are molded into the bushings are parallel to one another.

 

[citadel]

Thanks Rick... I for some reason still cant picture your guidance.... DIdnt understand the 7 1/4 distance part...

 

[MoJ]

Thanks Rick... I for some reason still cant picture your guidance.... DIdnt understand the 7 1/4 distance part...

He's referring to the distance between the holes in the center of the two bushings. If you don't maintain that distance they won't line back up to the mounting bracket.

 

[landtank]

the holes in the bushings need to be spaced that far apart or the bolts won't pass through. Remember that the holes are offset, so if the bushings were pressed in with the holes opposed the distance between them would be more than 7.30" and if they were pressed in facing each other then the distance would be less than 7.30".

I worked up a drawing to show you what I mean. It's not exact but should help you or anyone who might be installing the bushings

 

[citadel]

perfect!

thanks Rick!

Do the straight lines end up exactly perpendicular to the (level)ground?

 

[landtank]

they don't have to and most likely won't.

 

[citadel]

got it. I just read your remarks on another thread as well.... I'll give it a go.

 

[LICruiser]

Citadel, sorry I didn't get back to, I was away. I think that to gain maxium caster the hash mark will be angled a bit. My mechanic has diagreed with me about this and he called Slee. Him and Slee seem to draw to the conclusion my bushings were in wrong and that my castor was at max. I still think that they aren't in right. I may be changing jobs soon so I'm hoping for time off so I can drive out to Colorado and visit friends and to let slee go over my entire LC. I'm all about caster!!

 

[Hayes]

I followed Slee's directions (can be downloaded) for marking the control arm. From there I made a quick jig with some bolts running through the OEM bushings. After removing the old bushings, I placed the arm on the jig, and lined up the correction bushings (how landtank shows, above). All the jig does is eliminate the process of measuring the distance between holes. I'm pretty sure the jig method has been discussed around here somewhere...

Hayes

 

[landtank]

the easiest jig I saw was some 1/2" copper with 2-90* elbows sweated together at the proper distance. Not exact but close enough.

 

[GeoRoss]

Tools-R-Us helped me do my bushings. We had a jig of sorts, a spare set of arms. That allowed for both sets of bushings to be precisely positioned and was very easy. A jig of any construction is the way to go

 

[Tools R Us]

As Ross said I use the other arm and a couple of pieces of 5/8" dowel. I press the rear bushing first, lay it over the other arm with the dowels in it, use the dowels to lineup the front bushing, tap the bushing with a hammer to start it into the hole, holding it in place, then put it in the press and drive it home. Simple, cheap, quick and always ends with lined up bushings.

 

[landtank]

jigs are nice but not absolutely needed. The front hole on the axle bracket is elongated so there is some room for error.

 

[landbruised]

Awakening an old thread as I get ready to install OME bushings (OME medium kit just installed). In Slee's instructions he briefly says to have "the vehicle on the ground, at normal ride height." Is it important to have the vehicle loaded at normal driving weight before marking the leading arms with the plumb-bob method? Currently unloaded and have a full on stink bug stance. Curious how much having it loaded changes the angles up front.

 

[davidp14]

Excellent question. Especially since I'm getting ready to install mine as Well.

 

[BILT4ME]

Awakening an old thread as I get ready to install OME bushings (OME medium kit just installed). In Slee's instructions he briefly says to have "the vehicle on the ground, at normal ride height." Is it important to have the vehicle loaded at normal driving weight before marking the leading arms with the plumb-bob method? Currently unloaded and have a full on stink bug stance. Curious how much having it loaded changes the angles up front.

Loaded would be the best, or at least "The most normal weight/stance the truck will be used for."

Because if it is loaded, then the MINOR rotation of the bushings and the bolts will be in better alignment for the majority of the time and under less active stress. If they are installed and tightened when unloaded, then they are in a free state, and when loaded, they rotate, but the bushing in the center cannot rotate, thus causing the bushing assembly to fail early because the flexing motion causes the material to shear between the outer part and inner part of each bushing assembly.

That's why the FSM states to tighten the bolts when the full weight of the vehicle is on the suspension.

 

[landbruised]

Thanks bilt4me, for the quick response and great explanation. That was my hunch and I overlooked that mention in the FSM.

 

[landbruised]

Finally got some good use out of the weights