I will be welding together and installing the front hoop and supports for a Metaltech rollcage as well as a set of Whiteknuckle sliders this weekend. I would appreciate any advice based on your experience installing either. Thnaks, Tom
Installation Advice on Metaltech Rollcage & Whiteknuckle sliders needed.
- Thread starter tstepp920
- Start date
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I don’t have the roll cage - if you are planning to tie the cage to your frame, I’d be careful to avoid conflicts with the mounting points. If the cage is bolting to the tub it’s a non-issue.
The sliders were pretty easy to install. I chose to bolt them on as opposed to weld them - it was probably more work than just welding them but I like being able to unbolt them if I dramatically damage it.
The Installation instructions the came with the slider were pretty easy. I removed the rock steps and the step brace. Then disconnected the outer support extension for the step.
The toughest part doing this solo was getting the sliders positioned. Jack stands and plywood/scrap steel for shimming them up into position really helped.
Once I had them where I liked them, I clamped them with a TON of clamps to hold them in place. Then I used a drill bit the size of the holes in the slider as a “center punch” to mark the bolt locations. It helps if the frame is painted beforehand - makes the punch points easier to see.
After that, I unclamped and dropped the sliders for paint. I just used Eastwood Chassis Black rattle cans - it’s tough paint but I knew I’d be dragging these over rocks so I didn’t want to break the bank powder coating, etc.
While the paint was drying I drilled the holes. A right angle drill was super helpful as some of the drilling locations are tight. A super compact drill would work though.
The kit comes with self tapping screws, but I had a really hard time keeping them straight, so individually tapped all the holes in the frame. A ratcheting tap made this super easy.
Then it was just a matter of bolting everything back up. I was worried the steps would flex badly without the supports but I don’t even notice it’s gone.
The sliders were pretty easy to install. I chose to bolt them on as opposed to weld them - it was probably more work than just welding them but I like being able to unbolt them if I dramatically damage it.
The Installation instructions the came with the slider were pretty easy. I removed the rock steps and the step brace. Then disconnected the outer support extension for the step.
The toughest part doing this solo was getting the sliders positioned. Jack stands and plywood/scrap steel for shimming them up into position really helped.
Once I had them where I liked them, I clamped them with a TON of clamps to hold them in place. Then I used a drill bit the size of the holes in the slider as a “center punch” to mark the bolt locations. It helps if the frame is painted beforehand - makes the punch points easier to see.
After that, I unclamped and dropped the sliders for paint. I just used Eastwood Chassis Black rattle cans - it’s tough paint but I knew I’d be dragging these over rocks so I didn’t want to break the bank powder coating, etc.
While the paint was drying I drilled the holes. A right angle drill was super helpful as some of the drilling locations are tight. A super compact drill would work though.
The kit comes with self tapping screws, but I had a really hard time keeping them straight, so individually tapped all the holes in the frame. A ratcheting tap made this super easy.
Then it was just a matter of bolting everything back up. I was worried the steps would flex badly without the supports but I don’t even notice it’s gone.
PS - the sliders are TOUGH. I've landed on them quite a few times and dragged them over a bunch of rocks. They earned their keep their first trip out.
Downey
SILVER Star
When mounting front cage, don't let horizontal connector bars get too close to your head, get them out in the corners as far away from your head as possible. Every time I see a guy mount front cage connector bars too close to head movements I shudder. After mounting front cage to floor, then make/build side gussets to bolt sides of front cage to sides of dash board. If you don't you will get front cage wobble.
1911
chupacabra
I put a MetalTech "Jackson" cage in mine; love it but here's what I learned installing mine:
1) test-fit with the hard doors on (if you're ever going to run your hard top and doors). You want to get the A pillars as close to the dash as reasonably possible, and try to avoid interference with window roll-down handles.
2) I wish now that I had put another horizontal spreader bar between the A pillars right above the dash (or bolted gussets to the dash as @Downey said). Without it, mine vibrates side to side. Yeah, you would lose some dash space to put things on, but you'd have another easy space to clamp things on - GPS, aux. gauges, ham radio head, etc.
3) before you paint it, weld in a flat plate in between the center top bars; super handy to attach a ham or cb radio, overhead console, or whatever.
4) If you put the front header rail for your bikini top on the roll bar instead of the top of the windshield, your windshield and rear-view mirror won't vibrate so much, and you can still put the the windshield down with the bikini top on.
Good luck with your install.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #6
Any recommendations on the spacing between of the 2 overhead bars?
1911
chupacabra
If you're tall like me, you'll want them fairly close together near the center of the cab, so that you don't hit your head on them like @Downey mentioned with the other bars. You can see in the photo I posted that mine are just far enough apart to fit a mobile ham radio in between - less than 12" apart. I'd have to measure them to remember.
teleskier
SILVER Star
Anyone have photos of the front roll bar mount plates in the front floor pan? The plates metaltech provides are absolutely enormous and seem to go half way across the late model floor pan. I plan on using the frame tie in underneath, so it seems a smaller plate would suffice.
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