Inspecting a "new" 88 tomorrow...any tips for us?

[math]

We have an FZJ80 presently (and we'll be keeping it for serious off-road stuff). We're new mechanics but we know how to follow directions. This is a Toyota pickup with a custom flatbed, and the owner says it's got the following:

* "new" 22re with 5k miles - he says PO installed it, and of course has no receipts. Okay, it is what it is. How can I tell if it's really "new"?

* new trans, new clutch - again, no receipts.

* 488 gears on 35s with 40% tread - Well, at least I know how to inspect tires.

* "New" interior. Admittedly this looks spectacularly good.

The AC needs a belt and some R12. He wants 3500 for it.

Does anyone have a list of "gotchas" for us to inspect? Any way to tell if the engine and trans are "new"? We're still learning, but we listen and we're not completely lost, and this will be our second truck ever. Our DD Prius is getting to be older at 250k and we're moving somewhere pretty rugged, so this would be my new DD.

Pics:

 

[pappy]

Check compression on the engine. Should be in the 170-180psi range and even across all cylinders. Look for leaks on the engine. The front crank pulley is a great spot to look. How clean is the engine?

 

[snobdds]

What pappy said plus check the freeze plugs as they should look new. Look at the hold down prints on the VC, the rubber should look new.

Looks decent though...

 

[Mudder]

Check the flatbed for rust on the underside. Check CV boots as well

 

[math]

Okay, a minor update, talking to the seller, he says that he thinks there's air in the lines, and that he had to change the slave cylinder, so sometimes you have to pump the clutch. He says there's no frame rust. Thoughts? Edit: oh, right, forgot to mention I've never driven a manual and have no idea how. Good thing it's a short drive home!

Also, here's some stupid questions for you:

1) @pappy we don't have a compression checker. Probably worth having the Toyota dealership down the road do it for us? What will a "new" freeze plug look like, just very clean?
2) @snobdds what is the VC and where will we find it? In the 80, VC = viscous coupler. I doubt that's what you mean.
3) @Mudder What will good CV boots look like? Never had an IFS truck before. At least I know what rust looks like, right?

Thanks for the advice, all.

 

[math]

Just got some more photos. He says the 88 didn't originally have a 22RE, nor did it have cruise control. What do you guys think from the pics? Anything I should be wary of? Thanks again.

http://i.imgur.com/t1yes40.jpg

 

[pappy]

Just got some more photos. He says the 88 didn't originally have a 22RE, nor did it have cruise control. What do you guys think from the pics? Anything I should be wary of? Thanks again.

He is wrong. The 22re ran in the mini trucks and 4Runners for 10 years, from 1985-95. Look at the VIN. It will tell you if it originally had the 4cyl or a V6 (RN61 vs. VZN61). Cruise control was also very possible, especially on SR5 trucks (which this does not appear to be).

The header has me baffled. That is NOT a new manifold gasket.
The PCV vent hose is cracked. Manifold gasket leaks are bad ju-ju on a 22RE.
Not sure about all those wires on the battery terminals. Looks bubba to me.
I don't see any indication that this truck has cruise control installed.

 

[snobdds]

VC is the valve cover. The o rings that hold it on looks new and the head casting is not Toyota so its an after market head which means it probably is a newer engine.

Those two red and blue plugs are for the fuel pressure regulator VSV and PAIR VSV. VSV is a vaccum switching valve. The PAIR is not really needed but the fuel pressure regulator is. Probably doesn't start hot well...

 

[math]

He is wrong. The 22re ran in the mini trucks and 4Runners for 10 years, from 1985-95. Look at the VIN. It will tell you if it originally had the 4cyl or a V6 (RN61 vs. VZN61). Cruise control was also very possible, especially on SR5 trucks (which this does not appear to be).

The header has me baffled. That is NOT a new manifold gasket.
The PCV vent hose is cracked. Manifold gasket leaks are bad ju-ju on a 22RE.
Not sure about all those wires on the battery terminals. Looks bubba to me.
I don't see any indication that this truck has cruise control installed.

All of these are excellent spots and I really appreciate it. I don't want the V6, right? The 3.0 is supposedly bad, but this has the 4 cylinder in it. I don't mind de-bubba-ing...to some extent. I forgot to mention it has HIDs. Can't imagine those were installed right. What do you think I should offer him if it's otherwise rust free? Or should I avoid it altogether? Again, thanks.

 

[pappy]

Okay, a minor update, talking to the seller, he says that he thinks there's air in the lines, and that he had to change the slave cylinder, so sometimes you have to pump the clutch. He says there's no frame rust. Thoughts? Edit: oh, right, forgot to mention I've never driven a manual and have no idea how. Good thing it's a short drive home!

Also, here's some stupid questions for you:

1) @pappy we don't have a compression checker. Probably worth having the Toyota dealership down the road do it for us? What will a "new" freeze plug look like, just very clean?
2) @snobdds what is the VC and where will we find it? In the 80, VC = viscous coupler. I doubt that's what you mean.
3) @Mudder What will good CV boots look like? Never had an IFS truck before. At least I know what rust looks like, right?

Thanks for the advice, all.

VC = valve cover. I think what snobdds is talking about are the 4 rubber grommets that hold the cover down. I noticed that the castle nuts have had the studs pressed through the top. The grommets should not be smashed into oblivion. They look new to me.

Find a buddy, or an independent shop, to run a compression test. Takes about 15 minutes. Dealer is over kill.

New freeze plugs should be shiny. Sometime aluminum. Sometimes brass. Regardless, they should look new.

CV boots are rubber and should not have any cracks, or any grease leaking out.

In the nearly 400K miles I've put on my 4Runner I've only replaced the clutch slave once. I go through a master cylinder about every 100K. Look for brake fluid on the carpet inside the truck. Or look up under the dash and see if the master is leaking/dripping. You should not have to pump the clutch. It means there is probably air in the line and it needs to be bled ... after the leaks are fixed. Pumping could also be a sign that the cylinders have failed. I had a friend with a Taco that had a bad clutch master. It was not leaking, yet the fluid was by-passing internally some how. And get yourself a 10mm flare nut wrench to remove the lines. You WILL strip the nuts with a box wrench.

 

[Mudder]

Good CV's won't have grease spilling out of them and no tears in them. And does he mean it was a 22r originally?

 

[math]

VC is the valve cover. The o rings that hold it on looks new and the head casting is not Toyota so its an after market head which means it probably is a newer engine.

Those two red and blue plugs are for the fuel pressure regulator VSV and PAIR VSV. VSV is a vaccum switching valve. The PAIR is not really needed but the fuel pressure regulator is. Probably doesn't start hot well...

Should I be wary of an aftermarket head? I see no oil on the VC gasket. Also, I should just be able to plug in the VSV's again, right? Unless the plugs are horrendous to get to or something - I need an FSM for this engine. We replaced them when we had the manifold out in the 80, actually. All of these I'll keep in mind for tomorrow when I look it over. I really appreciate it.

 

[pappy]

Those two red and blue plugs are for the fuel pressure regulator VSV and PAIR VSV. VSV is a vaccum switching valve. The PAIR is not really needed but the fuel pressure regulator is. Probably doesn't start hot well...

Good catch. Fuel pressure VSV is missing.

 

[Mudder]

Depends on where the head came from.

 

[pappy]

I don't now how different the 88 is from my 85, but it also looks like the VSV for the EGR is missing. EGR modulator is there, but not the VSV. There are several places under the hood that should ID if this truck came with a 22r, or 22RE from the factory. The funky header looks like a 22R header that might have been transferred over during a transplant.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

You can also pull the VC and shine a bright light down into the timing cover. Look for wear in the chain guides. I notice the exhaust mani doesn't have its heat shield. Not a huge deal, because it is not super effective, but I burn myself less when it is in place.

 

[math]

Good catch. Fuel pressure VSV is missing.

Any idea if these are still available? The 80's VSV wasn't cheap.

I don't now how different the 88 is from my 85, but it also looks like the VSV for the EGR is missing. EGR modulator is there, but not the VSV. There are several places under the hood that should ID if this truck came with a 22r, or 22RE from the factory. The funky header looks like a 22R header that might have been transferred over during a transplant.

Likewise, any idea if these are around? I actually prefer for my EGRs to function, typically.

 

[math]

Looks like I forgot another important engine photo, a large version of the first one:

 

[snobdds]

There is no VSV for the egr on the 88. It's handled by the modulater, round thing on the back of the head that the vacuum lines run too off of the vacuum line tree, which appears to be hooked up.

A quick and dirty test for the compression. Put the truck in 1st and let it idle. If the truck doesn't die and moves slowly under its own power without any gas...the compression is usually OK. If it lugs and dies...pay to have the compression checked.

 

[math]

Was the fuel regulator VSV designed to prevent vapor-lock in hot conditions? This topic says it was only present on 4WD 22re's and supposedly you can just bypass it without issues. Hope it's about the same part. Either way, I'm starting to have second thoughts about this. Who knows what went into the block if the rest of the engine bay is any indication.