Input, Next Project , 40 Body on Late RJ/LJ70 Chassis which has Coils all round, 12HT Engine

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I live in the largest parabolic dune system,most definitely one of the largest in OZ and its about tyre pressures not momentum,I cut my teeth in sand and have been driving in some of the largest dunes on offer and it's tyre pressures,TYRE PRESSURE, I have seen my kids when they were 8 and 10 years old drive around so called experienced four wheel drivers in our dune systems in an old 1975 rust bucket Toyota


Mate, that's crock, and you know it, I am talking about pulling dead weight here, dead weight takes momentum, the dead weight of a trailer you pull at low speed the trailer wheels do not turn they drag, at low speed your vehicle digs holes as the 500kg behind you drags along.

And Big Red is hit at speed, its the momentum that gets you to the top, yes you lower your tyre pressure but if you don't have the HP and momentum per ton of weight you don't make it. I have never and I say never seen anyone drive to the base of big red, stop, select first gear and reach the summit? and there would not be a STANDARD 40 that I know of that would reach the top of big red let along drag a trailer over the top un-aided.

Now, you cannot navigate the beach at high tide with a two wheel drive car because the front wheels are pushed thru the sand causing the back wheels to spin and loose traction (lowered tyre pressure or not) unless your diving at 80kph and use brut force and the momentum to keep you mobile. In four wheel your fine, then when you add a trailer your back in the same position that 2 wheels are being either pushed or dragged, and I see no one driving slow pulling a heavy trailer or caravan at high tide, they either avoid the high tide or you get out of there way because there using there momentum.

A good 4 wheel will always drive itself out of soft sand, BUT not up hill, you have to reverse down. Its the momentum of you weight that assists!

I was brought up on the beach and lower tyre pressure on wheels that are not engaged does not help, you would be better off placing snow ski's under the front wheels, add a 1/2 a ton of weight in a trailer and stop in 12" powder ( wet or dry) and see how far you get, if you don't end up in China, then your moving at 1kph, bouncing up & down like an idiot with everybody looking at you because your back wheels have formed a 12" wall of sand in front of the trailer wheels which are not turning but being dragged.

And I drive a X5 on the beach with 20" wheels (run flats), at high tide, what do you think I drop the tyre pressures, (there is no road to my house only beach access), I can drive up the beach, turn around come back and go up again and still beat any 40, its momentum & HP. If I pull up on soft sand I pull up slowly, reverse to create a launch pad and again get momentum.

I am not saying lowering your tyre pressure does not help but all wheels must be driving and with a trailer is where your problem lies, so if you have two wheels not being driven you need momentum & HP to create momentum. This is the point I am making, so dead weight, HP, momentum and a standard 40 does not compute. If you add momentum to a 40 your need HP but the 40 suspension cannot handle this combination, hence you adapt the suspension to handle the terrain and the extra HP to tow dead weight.

This is why I have coils, the beach is 60km long, the speed limit is 80kph, trailer or no trailer I want to get to the other end and at high tide not take all day to get there, a leaf sprung 40 does not cut it, but a coil sprung, fibreglass sport tub 40 with a rebuilt 12HT with a full time Lokka in the rear does, and I don't need a 3 point harness to keep me in my seat?
 
Thank you for taking the time to school me Aussie. You know, sometimes I forget new I am to all this and how much I don't know. Luckily for me and the rest of the guys who clearly don't know what they're doing, there's blokes like you willing to offer up the cold hard facts of sand driving. It's important for a man to have a skill in life.
no worries, I see people with your sand driving beliefs stuck all the time because they think they know it all, I don't know it all but I do know sand better than most,if it is the only skill I have that's okay by me
 
Mate, that's crock, and you know it, I am talking about pulling dead weight here, dead weight takes momentum, the dead weight of a trailer you pull at low speed the trailer wheels do not turn they drag, at low speed your vehicle digs holes as the 500kg behind you drags along.

And Big Red is hit at speed, its the momentum that gets you to the top, yes you lower your tyre pressure but if you don't have the HP and momentum per ton of weight you don't make it. I have never and I say never seen anyone drive to the base of big red, stop, select first gear and reach the summit? and there would not be a STANDARD 40 that I know of that would reach the top of big red let along drag a trailer over the top un-aided.

Now, you cannot navigate the beach at high tide with a two wheel drive car because the front wheels are pushed thru the sand causing the back wheels to spin and loose traction (lowered tyre pressure or not) unless your diving at 80kph and use brut force and the momentum to keep you mobile. In four wheel your fine, then when you add a trailer your back in the same position that 2 wheels are being either pushed or dragged, and I see no one driving slow pulling a heavy trailer or caravan at high tide, they either avoid the high tide or you get out of there way because there using there momentum.

A good 4 wheel will always drive itself out of soft sand, BUT not up hill, you have to reverse down. Its the momentum of you weight that assists!

I was brought up on the beach and lower tyre pressure on wheels that are not engaged does not help, you would be better off placing snow ski's under the front wheels, add a 1/2 a ton of weight in a trailer and stop in 12" powder ( wet or dry) and see how far you get, if you don't end up in China, then your moving at 1kph, bouncing up & down like an idiot with everybody looking at you because your back wheels have formed a 12" wall of sand in front of the trailer wheels which are not turning but being dragged.

And I drive a X5 on the beach with 20" wheels (run flats), at high tide, what do you think I drop the tyre pressures, (there is no road to my house only beach access), I can drive up the beach, turn around come back and go up again and still beat any 40, its momentum & HP. If I pull up on soft sand I pull up slowly, reverse to create a launch pad and again get momentum.

I am not saying lowering your tyre pressure does not help but all wheels must be driving and with a trailer is where your problem lies, so if you have two wheels not being driven you need momentum & HP to create momentum. This is the point I am making, so dead weight, HP, momentum and a standard 40 does not compute. If you add momentum to a 40 your need HP but the 40 suspension cannot handle this combination, hence you adapt the suspension to handle the terrain and the extra HP to tow dead weight.

This is why I have coils, the beach is 60km long, the speed limit is 80kph, trailer or no trailer I want to get to the other end and at high tide not take all day to get there, a leaf sprung 40 does not cut it, but a coil sprung, fibreglass sport tub 40 with a rebuilt 12HT with a full time Lokka in the rear does, and I don't need a 3 point harness to keep me in my seat?
check out Pat Callinan driving Big Red,he is not doing what you say to do, I drove a Canter to the top of that dune,it's not as tough as people make out, I agree your coils will ride a bit better but coils won't make any difference to traction,HP doesn't mean jackchit if you don't have traction
 
White Stripe I agree with some of what you're saying mate :D but I can't come to the table with springs being springs. Can't remember where on here I saw it but the quote was something like 'Leaf springs will never be as smooth as coils because the locating rod and the spring are one and the same. To achieve true suspension, the spring must be a separate item to the locating rod.' or something along those lines. I never thought about it like that until that point. I drive a leaf sprung middy and after two years I'm now finalising my research for a front coil conversion using 80s stuff.

And Aussie FJ40, yep, sand is about pressure. And momentum :D
Their are many baja type trucks that still use leaf springs and they do very well. Even the Ford Raptor uses them on the back. I see what you are trying to say-but again I think it comes down to the leaf spring fabricators experience and knowledge, and the customers intended use and purpose. Stock original toyota fj40 springs are ancient technology and not really specifically made for dune running. But that doesn't mean a good spring pack cannot be built for the dunes that will achieve good results. While its true that often a leaf pack has the job of a suspension link as well-smooth ride can still be acheived with an experienced spring builder.
 
Their are many baja type trucks that still use leaf springs and they do very well. Even the Ford Raptor uses them on the back. I see what you are trying to say-but again I think it comes down to the leaf spring fabricators experience and knowledge, and the customers intended use and purpose. Stock original toyota fj40 springs are ancient technology and not really specifically made for dune running. But that doesn't mean a good spring pack cannot be built for the dunes that will achieve good results. While its true that often a leaf pack has the job of a suspension link as well-smooth ride can still be acheived with an experienced spring builder.
Anyway enough off topic stuff-lets see more of this build:beer:
 
Their are many baja type trucks that still use leaf springs and they do very well. Even the Ford Raptor uses them on the back. I see what you are trying to say-but again I think it comes down to the leaf spring fabricators experience and knowledge, and the customers intended use and purpose. Stock original toyota fj40 springs are ancient technology and not really specifically made for dune running. But that doesn't mean a good spring pack cannot be built for the dunes that will achieve good results. While its true that often a leaf pack has the job of a suspension link as well-smooth ride can still be acheived with an experienced spring builder.

You're probably right, White. But I don't have a good spring builder, unless you fellas have a spare :D
 
And while your spending huge amounts of money getting leafs built which takes weeks, half a day to rip the old ones out and install the new ones only to find there wrong and start all over again, coils are 10 mins work and can be reset in 2 days.

Even King Spring's brand new are only $180 a pair and what's more, if you don't mark them when fitting they can be exchanged?
 
Hey watrob I've been doing a bit of research on this of late and I've come across some folks who think the 80 series style arm gives better articulation than the RJ/LJ/Rover (I think the latter is a radius arm and the former is a _________ arm?). The difference being where the arm mounts to the chassis.

What are your thoughts mate?
 
Yes I have heard that also, the LJ, RJ later models came out with bushes on the end of radius arms the same as the 80 series and the earlier models had pins which this chassis I am working on now has.

This build is mainly for beach work (as was the other chassis I built using the 80 series suspension parts) so articulation is not so important for me, I am looking for handling & ride.

The 80 series suspension on a 40 is pretty heavy duty components and you could wheel your heart way no probs, but you have get your measurements right and your spring coils & shocks although you can use the 80 series items the shock valving & springs rates need to be adjusted.
 
Righto thanks mate.
 
The 12Ht engine is fully stripped down to a long motor and off to be fully rebuilt?

IMG_2360.jpg
 
Pickup the rebuilt engine saturdau morning and now back in the garage to have all the components bolted back on, IP has been rebuilt and new injectors again by Diesel Australia,, turbo has been rebuilt.

IMG_2363.jpg
 
Hi Watrob, I've been following you other build for the past few years and you have inspired me to build a shorty. I've used the other build page as a 'shopping list' of sorts and now have all the main pieces, 12v 12ht and an 84' bj42 which has factory 5 speed 40 series h55f, factor power steering, front discs, hand brake rear drum. I also have discs from ln65 for rear conversion.

My question: are coils worth the additional effort over leafs? I can get a 70 series chassis over in Perth quite cheap and I won't start my build until I'm certain of the right path to take. Also, as I understand, the registration will state that it is a 70 series with a body swap rather than a 40 series?
 
Ok well I just bought an 88 bundera coils all round, swb so both options are on the table :)
 
Hi mate. wondering if you have any updates?

Also what are you using for diffs? will you use the existing bundera? or upgrade to something stronger? thanks

Also Just found this coil sprung FJ40

 
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I already have one completed and am working on a second, but this time rather than fitting the coils to a 40 series chassis use the RJ70 series chassis as all the work is already done. If you drove a all coiled 40 you would go back to a leaf sprung one?

I see that @watrob was last on the forum a year ago but thought I would ask the question in the event he receives email alerts. I would like to know more about the comment you made above "If you drove a all coiled 40 you would go back to a leaf sprung one?". I am not sure if there is a typo in there or if the coiled 40 build you did performed poorly. I would like to here a little more about the performance of your coiled 40. I am planning to swap an 80 suspension on my 45 frame and would appreciate any insights you could share about the suspension swap.
 

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