- Thread starter
- #21
Stripe it down and get it ready for sandblasting.
Input, Next Project , 40 Body on Late RJ/LJ70 Chassis which has Coils all round, 12HT Engine
- Thread starter watrob
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- #22
Few more.
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- #23
Going to place a strengthening bars across the rear coil hats as I am going to use heavier coils from an early model 80 series.
And a couple plates on the front coil hats.
The drawings are a little rough but get the idea.
And a couple plates on the front coil hats.
The drawings are a little rough but get the idea.
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- Thread starter
- #24
With this build of mine, putting a 40 body on a RJ70 chassis is forcing me to work backwards. I will have to place the fibreglass tub on for testing and centre the rear wheel arches even over the back wheels. I then will have cut and move the body/step supports back a little (see below)
Then the next thing will be to move forward the chassis engine mounts to suit the 12ht engine.
Then the next thing will be to move forward the chassis engine mounts to suit the 12ht engine.
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- #25
Ordered my Harrop/Eaton 4 pinion E-locker for my 8" high pinion front diff.
And a Lokka 4 pinion for my 8" rear.
Should arrive in about 10 days.
And a Lokka 4 pinion for my 8" rear.
Should arrive in about 10 days.
I have those e-lockers front and rear in my H3. I like them, I like them a lot.
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- #27
My Lokka arrived today for the rear diff.
I used one of those on the back of a 1970 Buick Skylark - I liked it, but it is more spool than locker.
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- #29
Ordered my long range fuel tank, 3 week build date.
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- #31
Yes & no, my daughter & son-in-law borrow mine all the time, so I am left on the beach fishing with no transport which is a pain. Also I am selling off the current leaf sprung galvanised chassis with disc brakes all round, 2H diesel, 4 speed, power steering, ARB bulbar, Lokka rear diff, wheels and tyres as a rolling running chassis. (This will be a good deal for someone, other than 4 new disc rotors and pads being needed, a general clean up of the chassis, its a good little project for someone, I will even throw in a spare working 4 speed gearbox).
Which means when I decide to do a rebuild on the new chassis I have just finished in the other thread, I will have no transport for 12 months or more because I have sold the other chassis off. With this new build which will take a year I will then always have a beach vehicle available for me or for the kids and I can alternate the rebuilds.
The other thing is I can afford to build another one at the moment, the RJ70 chassis makes it a lot easier, the person who builds the 43 series tubs for me is available to do another one, and there are also more parts available as more people are wrecking out 40 series for parts at the moment which will not always be the case.
And by using 70 & 80 series suspension components, future parts will be around for another 20 years, plus fibreglass bodies last forever.
Which means when I decide to do a rebuild on the new chassis I have just finished in the other thread, I will have no transport for 12 months or more because I have sold the other chassis off. With this new build which will take a year I will then always have a beach vehicle available for me or for the kids and I can alternate the rebuilds.
The other thing is I can afford to build another one at the moment, the RJ70 chassis makes it a lot easier, the person who builds the 43 series tubs for me is available to do another one, and there are also more parts available as more people are wrecking out 40 series for parts at the moment which will not always be the case.
And by using 70 & 80 series suspension components, future parts will be around for another 20 years, plus fibreglass bodies last forever.
Cool gotta love the kids borrowing the transport leaving the old man high and dry on the beach. I have been there and had that happen with two kids so I brought them both cars and got stuck with there rego's for a few years. 
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- #33
I attached a photo below as I need to know the width of the engine mounts on a early model 40 series. I know the measurement of the later model but they have there engine mounts further back. It was just every diagram I have does not show this measurement on the earlier model chassis.
So I asked for some measurements on a early 40 series chassis in another thread and Ken White was good enough to help me out.
Ken White gave me the measurement and it is 500mm center to center of the bolt holes.
So I asked for some measurements on a early 40 series chassis in another thread and Ken White was good enough to help me out.
Ken White gave me the measurement and it is 500mm center to center of the bolt holes.
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- #34
I also needed to measure both left & right mounts hole on your chassis to the leading top edge of the cross member where the front bib bolts onto.
Ken ran a straight edge across and came up with 350mm on the drivers side and 375mm on the passenger side.
Ken ran a straight edge across and came up with 350mm on the drivers side and 375mm on the passenger side.
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- #35
Drivers side is 350mm
In the past I have used the rubber & engine mounts from a hj47 that had a 2H in it when installing a 2H or 12HT into a 40 series chassis.
But I have noticed that the RJ70 chassis mounts actually sit higher in the chassis than the FJ40 chassis mounts in the frame and have a steeper slope on them like the 60 series, so I am hopefully I will use the RJ70 mounts but with the 60 series engine rubber mounts & engine brackets.
In the past I have used the rubber & engine mounts from a hj47 that had a 2H in it when installing a 2H or 12HT into a 40 series chassis.
But I have noticed that the RJ70 chassis mounts actually sit higher in the chassis than the FJ40 chassis mounts in the frame and have a steeper slope on them like the 60 series, so I am hopefully I will use the RJ70 mounts but with the 60 series engine rubber mounts & engine brackets.
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- Thread starter
- #36
I spent Sunday hunting for parts and did quite well. Picked up a 5 speed transmission $100 out of a 75 series and he threw in a diesel alternator as well, two seat brackets for front sport seats $60 and already galvanised, 1984 peddle box $50, 1984 brake booster with slave to match and also the clutch slave as well for a total of $150 and it's like new.
Also got a neatly removed 1984 HJ47 wiring loom complete for $200.
The long range fuel tank is ready and it should arrive in the next week, also got another rear forward facing back tumble seat for a $100, its been seating this guys garage as he took it out of the vehicle and its like brand new.
Got a hold of a full set of 12ht turbo and exhaust manifold heat shield from a guy who had a 12ht long time go and was going to throw them out, also picked up a used front fibreglass late model front bib & bezel for $156 and a fuel filler neck.
To finish the day off I got a 1984 radiator cradle/bracket & a fan shroud for 0.99cents.
Thought you might like this, picked up a brand new SAAS steering wheel with horn button for $25 on eBay.
So over the next 3 to 4 months I will keep picking up odds & ends while I start the12HT engine rebuild.
Also got a neatly removed 1984 HJ47 wiring loom complete for $200.
The long range fuel tank is ready and it should arrive in the next week, also got another rear forward facing back tumble seat for a $100, its been seating this guys garage as he took it out of the vehicle and its like brand new.
Got a hold of a full set of 12ht turbo and exhaust manifold heat shield from a guy who had a 12ht long time go and was going to throw them out, also picked up a used front fibreglass late model front bib & bezel for $156 and a fuel filler neck.
To finish the day off I got a 1984 radiator cradle/bracket & a fan shroud for 0.99cents.
Thought you might like this, picked up a brand new SAAS steering wheel with horn button for $25 on eBay.
So over the next 3 to 4 months I will keep picking up odds & ends while I start the12HT engine rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #37
So the long range fuel tank has arrived, as has the fox shocks?
Also the 40 series steering column bearing from Kurt
Also the 40 series steering column bearing from Kurt
G'day Watrob, really like your idea of putting the 40 series tub on the Bundera chassis. But curious to know how will you go about with the body mounts? will your body mounts be sitting inside the chassis rails as opposed to outside? The 40 series chassis seems to be a fair bit narrower than the RJ70.. Look forward to hearing from you
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- #39
I am using a 40 series fibreglass extended tub (43 series length), the thing is you can drill the tub mounting holes in nearly any position you like, so it won't be a drama at all.
