Input, Next Project , 40 Body on Late RJ/LJ70 Chassis which has Coils all round, 12HT Engine

[watrob]

I am looking at a new project as I have another 12HT plus 5 speed, but I might go auto transmission.

The late model 1988 to 1990 Rj, LJ & BJ70 (Bundera) came out with coil suspension all round, its has a little longer wheel base than a 40 series = 91 ( 40 series around 89") but the track is 20mm wider at 1425mm.

I believe the running gear, axles & diffs are more Hilux standard than Landcruiser?

Will place a 43 series fibreglass body on, so mounting is a lot easier as I can get the reinforcing placed in the body shell in the right areas for mounting to the chassis.

Ok, input in what problem I may have, do's & don'ts ?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

carry on...(popcorn)

 

[watrob]

I have just completed this and having a spare 12HT I thought instead of going down the same route again in putting 80 series suspension on a 40 series chassis, I just buy a RJ70 that has coils all round?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

your 40 series chassis is inspiration for me to do the same to a 55 series; almost have all the parts gathered...you Aussies get all the goodies

 

[watrob]

Thanks, for the amount of time this took to build, a RJ70 late model chassis would have cut a year off the project and probably $10k as well. Chassis wise the RJ70 suspension has coils all round, wheel base is 90" (forty is around 89"), the chassis above is a bit over 92", power steering is done, disc's on front, so all I would have needed to do was rear disc brakes but still would have needed to galvanised everything.

Anyway I am picking up a rolling RJ70 late model chassis this week, going to lock it way for the next project, I have another 12HT to rebuild in the meantime which will take me 6 months or so and I think I might run a auto transmission this time as well.

The fibreglass sports body tube I get is based on a 43 series body size and there is a 6 months wait on the build time for it.

I will sell my other 40 series chassis which has 4 speed & 2H diesel (the one that has the sports tube currently sitting on it) with disc brakes all round, galvanised chassis, lokka rear diff, power steering etc, as a running rolling chassis. (photo below)

 

[watrob]

Picking up another donor 12HT tomorrow morning for parts. The second block at machine shop looks ok, crank ok, & new bearing size replacements standard size, new piston & rings 20thou over, full rebuild of head with new valves & guilds.

So its now down too the chassis, I know the wheel base of a 40 series is around 89" and the RJ70 is 90" but I am trying to find out the distance from the centre of the rear wheel hub to the rear of the chassis on the RJ70, what the difference in length is between it and a 40 series?

I have the distance on the 40 series chassis ( I assume this is centre rear hub position) but not the RJ70 chassis?

OK measured the length, it's 800mm, perfect.

 

[Aussie FJ40]

been thinking about the exact same project,but i would drop my 40 body on,no fibreglass for me,i am looking at a Bundera now that is very tidy but i think it is a good project but like all projects once you start that is when you find out how much stuff needs changing and it can go on and on,might just sell my nice forty and do the bundera,but it has been running thru my head for a few months,maybe you do it and find out how hard it is for me


...via IH8MUD app

 

[watrob]

I don't think there is to much of a problem, more for a steel body but a fibreglass body is a lot easier bolting it down onto the chassis. Photo below is a fibreglass 40 body on a RJ70 all coil chassis.

My current fibreglass body, still sitting on leaf springs.

 

[Aussie FJ40]

my thinking is to just do the chassis swap,run my 2F,my H55 etc,i would put the 2 chassis side by side and make the bundera chassis to suit,but it has been on my mind for the last few months and you can pick up a stuffed rj70 cheap,or do you just settle on a nice bundera,air con etc,i realise you are into fibreglass for your envoronment but it is not an issue with me


...via IH8MUD app

 

[watrob]

Well it's all mine. RJ70 1988 model, will take early model 80 series coil springs, which it will need for the 12HT with 5 speed or auto. The build will be along the same lines of my nearly completed 40 series gal'd chassis with 80 series suspension thread.

Will fit a fibreglass 43 series tub, convert the rear axle to disc brakes (the RJ70 already has coils all round), Lokka rear diff with e-locker front diff, chassis fully gal'd and all suspension components renewed, hZJ75 series power steering box bolts straight on.

40 series wheel base is around 89", if you look at my above photo my yellow 43 tub is sitting on a 40 series chassis and the rear wheel is 2" to close the forward part of the wheel arch. I solved this problem in the new 40 series chassis with 80 series suspension I have just built by having a 92" wheel base, rear wheels 2" back and front wheel 1" forward.

The RJ70 wheel base is 90.89" or that's so close to 91" it does not matter, this mean I can centre the tub and give me that 80mm I need from the firewall to the radiator to fit the 12ht in.

 

[watrob]

Well things are moving along on this build, 43 series fibreglass tub is ordered (6 months wait which is fine). Picked up another 12Ht to rebuild, so it gives me something to do while the tub gets made.

 

[watrob]

So I am on the hunt for parts and I found 4 painted alloy 16"x8" with 31"x10.5" tyres (thought the deal was pretty good at $85 per wheel. They are the same as on my current 40, they will clean up well and are the right offset, no spacers needed.

These are my current wheels

 

[watrob]

I now have the rolling RJ70 chassis in my garage, and it will be a fairly straight forward tear down, sandblast and hot dip galvanising treatment. Rebuild rear diff with a Lokka and a Harrop/Eaton E-locker in the front. Rebuild front & rear axles, brakes etc.

I have a spare rear bench seat, the same as in my current 40.

One good thing about this RJ70 chassis is its got brand new brake lines so that's a saving.

Picked up another radiator cradle & shroud for $0.99 cents, so I still need a radiator. Have a spare (actually 2) HJ47 1984 wire looms, plenty of Fuel & glow relays for a 12ht as well.

Have a spare set of early 80 series coil springs which will fit the RJ70 chassis, as the 12ht is a heavy engine.

 

[watrob]

So I need a H55F 5 speed gearbox, the gearbox cross member is already in the right place so that's fairly easy install as well.

I have a spare 40 series steering wheel & column, and as the RJ70 series chassis still has intermediate steering shaft attached and the power steering box is already located at the front of the chassis that's a straight forward bolt up this time round as well.

Another 110ltr long range fuel tank is needed, as the 43 series tub is a pre 78 version the fuel tank does under the front sports seats.

Also have spare set of cluster gauges, clove box, etc. Will need to get another set of front seat brackets, and front & rear flares for the guards.

 

[watrob]

The another major expense will be a 2" steel roll cage as per the Qld Transport Dept guidelines because of the fibreglass tub and the painting of the whole body, which is not to bad with a 40 as there is only about 12 main pieces to paint.

Most likely run Bilstein Alloy Shocks this time instead of FOX. to match the King springs.

So its just a matter of picking up bits & pieces as you come across them, this weekend I am picking up a 1982-1984 peddle box & brake booster and some sun visors for the windscreen.

Think it will take me around 3 months of scrounging around the countryside for all those little pieces I need.

Then a big box of stainless steel bolts and nuts to put it all together and while I am talking about SS, I still have enough 3" 316 SS for the exhaust, just need to buy another muffler.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

You answered a question that had been bouncing around in my head. A friend has an FJ with a 2H motor in his truck, the motor was put in by a PO and the motor is both shifted to the left side and not straight front to back. I wondered why the PO did that - after all, this is a US truck, and moving stuff closer to the steering column is, frankly, pretty dumb (unless, of course, you can source a rubber steering column). Now I know why, he got the motor out of a RHD vehicle and didn't think when he put it in the LHD drive vehicle that he needs to run a steering column. It's all clear now, still dumb move, but at least it's the error of omission rather than commission (just an idiot rather than a blithering idiot )

 

[cult45]

As the PO of an RJ70 as well as numerous J4 trucks I can say the best ride I ever had was in my Bundy. My only gripe was that it was too small for me at 6' 4" and that it was underpowered. You're right in that the driveline is all Hilux. A potential weak spot some would say, but the Hilux rear end is a favourite for rodders nationwide and they bolt all sorts of torquey V8's in front of them. Will be interesting to see how it handles the 12H-T.

Also when ordering parts, RJ and LJ denote the Toyota light duty Cruisers - BJ is in the same class as FJ/HJ 40 through 46. There will be a lot of parts interchangeability between the light duty trucks in JP, so you may be able to source a factory disc rear end and booster so she's all stock Toyoda engineering.

Good luck with the build.

 

[watrob]

Picked up a two front fibreglass guards, there were just priced right.

 

[watrob]

The old steel body is off the chassis and the frame is in really good shape, mainly just surface rust,

 

[watrob]

Few more.