inner tierod replacement 1hr step by step no pictures 1 bannana (2 Viewers)

[1HaytchZed]

edit: just bought all of the above^^^^ if they are 555s in moog boxes, i will be a happy camper. im just gonna return my AA order when it comes


yall trust that moog inner? i just ordered the 555 outer from advanced auto but the 555 inners are $95+ each

Amazon has 555 inners for $41.37 each.

 

[Porter]

I installed the 555 brand inners and outers from Cruiser Outfitters this AM. Good quality. This was on a new OEM rack(second on my rig) I had installed 135k miles and seven years back, with new outer TREs. Taking things apart today, the inners were pretty loose, outers still ok, but of course gonna do them all. One suggestion is to get some of the skinny metal bands for the inner boot, you will break them on removal unless you have some kinda special skills that us normal people don't possess.

Some Napa bands (pictured up top) I had from years ago in the garage did the trick for the boots. Also, placing the Old TRE next to the 555s, the 555s have more threads (threaded to the end of TRE), where the old OEM TRE below has a 1/4" smooth tapered neck before the threads, so counting turns doesn't work for proper spacing. Instead, I counted the exposed threads from the jam nut to inner TRE lip to get a good guess for reinstall. New tires and an alignment done this afternoon and she's back in action. Shudder while braking is eliminated, and no more cupped tires

 

[nissanh]

That's less than half. I'm coming up with $380 shipped via partsouq.
Do you have PNs you used for 555? Are they Chinese?

Why do people think Moog / 555 / Sankei is actually the provider for Toyota OE parts? Is this true?
edit: looks like they are Made in Japan. Nice!!

555 is NOT the Toyota's OEM supplier. Toyota makes their own mechanical parts through AISIN. I used 555 in the past (20 years ago) but had bad experience. Take for example 3rd generation 4runner lower ball joint. OEM lasts 200K miles while 555 (Moog, napa etc.,) lasts max 25K miles.

 

[nissanh]

Here is my coutribution for this thread.
This is passenger side.
25 mm wrench grasp the outer tie-rod
I carefuly removed the inner clamp and reused the boot and clamps
Used a pipe-wrench (jaw opening should be 50 mm (2 inches): Locking plier did nothing!

 

[nissanh]

Continued:
ITR attached
As the OP stated, I measured the distance between the mating surface on the ITR locking washer end to innser surface of the locking nut. It had 15.3 to 15.4 mm (2nd image) and I set this exact number on the new ITR.
Washer is bent with the help of the adjustable arench. I bent all sides.

 

[lesgarten]

@nissanh, Thanx for the PIX, helps a lot!

 

[jammingator]

Thanks @ponytl and @nissanh for these great insights, working on it now!

 

[Miljack]

@nissanh thanks SO much for the pics!

Has anyone here tried the "Proforged" brand listed on RockAuto?

I was gonna take mine to the shop for this repair, but, I think I'll tackle this one on my own!

 

[lesgarten]

@nissanh I am having issues getting one of the boots to go on the rack. Greased the inside of the boot a little and the rack itself and still having problems. Any tricks you used or advice you can give?

 

[nissanh]

@nissanh I am having issues getting one of the boots to go on the rack. Greased the inside of the boot a little and the rack itself and still having problems. Any tricks you used or advice you can give?

Sorry for the delayed response.

Nothing special. I had the clamp loose and the boot went on easily. Do you have the OEM clamp that is crimped? I had the oem clamp at the inner and had to expand the crimp little to make it loose before I removed it. Once done, I used my CV axle clamp tool to re-tighten it to factory specs! See that clamp hanging loose on the last picture I posted

 

[Miljack]

My son and I completed the inner tie rod R/R over the weekend. I will say these instructions were key to making it a smooth job, however(!) those inner clamps on the rack bellows are a PITA! I hate those things! To be fair, I don't own the magic tools required for those things! Driver side probably had a 1/2" of play, PS about 1/4"
It's getting aligned today/tomorrow, will be interested how close we got the toe-in using a metal scale and a vice to measure...

 

[Miljack]

an update, I took it to the Toyota dealer for an alignment and asked that they install the inner clamps. They called me back today and said the tech told them he can't install with the tool from underneath, the rack has to come out to install the clamps?! Anybody else comment on this? I'm just gonna safety wire the inner part of the bellows...

 

[nissanh]

I installed the inner clamp while the rack is mounted. Had to move the clamps mountings tabs downwards as shown in last picture I posted. Get the tool and do it yourself.

 

[mdcoa]

Yesterday I noticed a vibration from the front end on overrun--reminded me of the vibration when I failed to properly tighten a tie rod end after a replacement on our Volvo, so I reckoned it was something steering related. Jacked up both sides--there's some movement on both sides, but only a clunk on the drivers side. No visible play in the outer tie rod end. Lower ball joint is tight. Wheel bearings seem tight (no play when wiggling at 12 and 6).



Truck is an 04 with nearly 150k miles on it--there is some movement in the steering rack. Toyota records indicate that neither inner or outer tie rod ends have ever been replaced. Have not noticed any loss in PS fluid since I've owned it (18 mos/20k miles)

So . . .
replace all tie rod ends, replace only the DS inner, or replace the rack, which comes with inners, so is only about $400 more (in parts, assuming I tackle the job myself) than a pair of 555 inner TREs. Not that that's chump change, but TREs at 120 vs rack at 520 . . . makes me wonder if ti's time to tackle the infamous PITA.

About to go try to pull the boots to verify the play is in the inner TRE and not the rack itself. . .

 

[mdcoa]

Ok, so it’s appnot the TRE. Rack itself may need replacing. Not much fluid in the boot but the play is clearly in the rack—need to find out if that’s an unusual amount. Will find a suitable thread for that question...

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Replaced my inners today. Thanks for all the advice in this thread.
The PO replaced the rack. Probably the inner TREs too, with crappy ones that failed quickly. Must've broken the oem large boot clamps in the process. They used zip ties instead... I'm gonna assume that isn't good practice...

 

[samson365]

Adjustable Plumbers Wrench
Husky PN: 16PL0134
Price: $12.57
Store: Home Depot

This tool helped out with the inner tierod replacement. My adjustable wrenches were too thick and I didnt want to grind them down or use the pipe wrench/vice grip combo (on the new inners).
I used one to counter-hold the rack and the other to break the inner tierod free with a cheater bar for leverage. If I were doing it again I don't think a cheater bar would be necessary.

 

[slangdog]

Hi all, still need to jack up vehicle and do the 3 and 9 o'clock check, but I have the below movement on just the drivers side (RHD). I'm assuming this is not normal. Would this indicate inner or outer, or do I need to jack up and inspect properly?

 

[Bisho]

I’d say outer is gone. It should be too stiff for you to rotate it that easily. Inner will spin all day, the 3/9 test is for it.

 

[100d ua]

Where is everyone getting their inner rods nowadays? Searched around, local dealer wants $285 each, McGeorge wants $192 each and eBay has some “Delphi” brand for like $50.

Part number I’m searching is 45503-69015

edit; the following popped up on Partsouq:

OE Toyota $104
555: $26.65