inner axel seal...

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I need some help refreshing my memory...
I rebuilt my axels a couple years back, but my inner axel seal on the DS is leaking.
Would I NEED to buy another rebuild kit to change it, or could I just tear it down slam a new one in and re-assemble with the existing stuff?
Im gonna go with the Marlin heavy duties this time.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
You might be able to get by with the same seals, but I would do a minor kit just in case.

Most likely, you do not need new trunion bearings or the ball wipers/seals

The short kit is not pricy...
 
You might be able to get by with the same seals, but I would do a minor kit just in case.

Most likely, you do not need new trunion bearings or the ball wipers/seals

The short kit is not pricy...

Did you get trapped under a rock or something?:D
Havent seen you on here in a while Mace.
Roger that. Get the small kit JIC...
Wanted to get the ducks in a row before I order.
Im 99% certain that the trunions will be fine. Theres not a whole lot of miles on them as its a toy, not a DD. Ill check things out when I get in.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
Look into the Marlin inner axle seal. It is supposed to be better than the OEM one.
 
Keith, I 2nd the lite kit, and I hear Kurt now carries the Marlin seals, FYI.
I'd take this time to bypass the brake backing plate mount on the brake hose and go straight from axle to caliper, if'n you haven't already done so. It'll speed up teardown next time. O'course, after you stab in those Longs, it'll be quite a while before you have to dig in at trailside, eh?
 
Take a close look at the axle where the seal runs for wear plus the spindle bushing.......and don't forget to make sure the diff. breather isn't plugged......
 
Keith, I 2nd the lite kit, and I hear Kurt now carries the Marlin seals, FYI.
I'd take this time to bypass the brake backing plate mount on the brake hose and go straight from axle to caliper, if'n you haven't already done so. It'll speed up teardown next time. O'course, after you stab in those Longs, it'll be quite a while before you have to dig in at trailside, eh?

Thanks Wile E,
I actually did just that when I did the SOA. ;)

Great minds...

Chicago
 
If you did a Martack then you would just need to pull the steering arm and lower trunion thingie off to get to the seal. iirc
 
If you did a Martack then you would just need to pull the steering arm and lower trunion thingie off to get to the seal. iirc

Yeppers, if you did not do the inner C clip it is easy to do it this way...
 
Marlin seal

I bough a pair of these, put one in the driver's side, and I haven't done the passenger side yet. This served to illustrate just how superior these things are. I leak, as usuall, on the passenger side but not at all on the drivers side. These are worth every penny and more. GET SOME!!!!
 
Yeppers, if you did not do the inner C clip it is easy to do it this way...

OKAY...WTF are you guyz talking about?
If it makes the assemble/ reassembly process easier, I want to know about it. When Im doing stuff, I want easy for when something breaks if it cant be bullet proof!

Chicago
 
I bough a pair of these, put one in the driver's side, and I haven't done the passenger side yet. This served to illustrate just how superior these things are. I leak, as usuall, on the passenger side but not at all on the drivers side. These are worth every penny and more. GET SOME!!!!

Ive heard good things about em!
I ordered everything yesterday, but they have to wait for shipment to come in Wed.

Chicago
 
YOu can pull off the hub dial, take off the C clip on the Birf stub shaft, unbolt all of the knuckle wiper seals, then remove the upper and lower kingpin retainers (steering arm and the cap)

The entire knuckle will then come off of the axle.

If you are good at it, it is a lot faster than pulling the entire knuckle apart to get at the birf...
 
YOu can pull off the hub dial, take off the C clip on the Birf stub shaft, unbolt all of the knuckle wiper seals, then remove the upper and lower kingpin retainers (steering arm and the cap)

The entire knuckle will then come off of the axle.

If you are good at it, it is a lot faster than pulling the entire knuckle apart to get at the birf...

WOOOOO!
Im gonna try that when I go in again.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
Martack https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/210677-martack.html


more can be found on Marlin's board our the mini truck section of pirate

AAAAAAH!
Thats a great write up!
I have a spare set of axels (birfs/ inners) that I carry in the back of the rig, but Ive never been able to seperate the two. Hoestly, I had never tried all that hard. I always figured on the trail Id just slam the whole shebang in!
Ive not been able to get to the inner c clip on the inner splines.
How is this accompished?
So the weld has to filed down flush with the rest of the spline obviously...
There wouldnt be any play at the distal ends of the assy, where the inners insert into the birf, or is there a tack there as well, or is it the outer c clip that maintains IT'S position?

Chicago
 
to get the birf apart most people just take a pipe and slide the inner shaft in until the birf is sitting on the pipe and slam the hole thing on the ground. with a hammer and vice you can do get the same effect.

you don't need to grind the weld down, just run a file over it, so it doesn't tear up the seal putting it in.

the tack keeps it from walking into the diff and the cclip on the end of the birf keeps it from dropping out of the hub gear.
 

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