Inner AND outer anti-squeal shims?

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Through trial and error I think I found the correct configurations for the brake pad support plates. I will upload a photo.

Also, after some research, I decided to use Napa "Syn-Glide" grease for the pins and brake caliber grease for the shims, pad ears and pad support plates.

Being too high strung, I did stress out a little on determining the right amount of grade to use. I coated the inside of the shims with a fair amount of grease using almost all the grease that came with the shim kit on one caliber. It wasn't enough grease that it altered the fit of the shim to the pad, but i did fill up the small groves on the rubber coated side of the shims. Could be I used too much as I know think the the OEM shim kit would have included the correct amount of grease and I added quite a bit more.

Short term results appear to be good. However, after just about 40 miles of driving I did hear a small squeak when I was pulling into a parking spot. Ugh!!!
 
Here is a photo of the left outer pad with the wear clip installed on the bottom pad ear

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After about 200 road miles, I still hear a squeal from the rear right brake when stopping from slow speeds, like in a parking lot. When I arrived home today from my 20 minute freeway commute, I could smell something burning. After further investigation is smells like paint is burning around my rear brakes. Looking through the wheel on the right rear I could see the rear disc appears to have been overheated. There is a blue shinny ring around the diameter and the face of the disc is very shinny with a translucent rainbow of colors. How can this be???? I installed new OEM pads, shims, springs and clips on new Napa "Ultra Premium" discs. I know I didn't get any grease on the pads or disc and I lubed the pins with Napa Syn-Glide and the pad shims and ears with brake caliber grease. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Clean rig, no road rust. I'm sure I pushed the piston all the way into the caliber before install. Could a piston be sticking? Calibers have never been rebuilt and I have 222K miles. Or, is it more likely an issue with pin sticking? Now what??? Thanks
 
So I have the clip puzzle also...Advance Auto Premium Platinum pads. My last pads apparently did not even HAVE a wear clip and I was grinding before I knew it. The "Power Stop" pads only lasted a mere 9 months.

As I am seeing this, the wider clips seem to go on the side that gets the pressure (Bottom)?
 
I'm going to jump in here. With most aftermarket pads there is no need for Toyota anti squeal shim kit (AS shim kit), use of AS shim kit may even be counter productive.

I see some are mixing aftermarket pads in with OEM AS shims. In most cases (all i've seen) aftermarket pads come with AS shims built in/fixed on back of pad. It's a real savings dollar wise, as Toyota AS shims are pricey and FSM states always replace when replacing pads.

You can see anti squeal shim is fixed on this aftermarket pad, so no need for toyota's AS shim kit:
004 aftermarket pad.webp

No AS shim fixed to backs of OEM pads, these need the Toyota anti squeal shim kit installed:
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Ok so when using Toyota pads and anti shim kit. Which shim goes on outside and which side and top or bottom does wear indicator go on. Well the FSM really falls short here. It just states: " Install the shims in correct position and direction" okay what is that? Really I don't know the answer. I've found many 100 series, some low milage with no record of and rear brake work being done (mixing up), that has undercut shim and wear indicator (at top) on back/inner pad next to piston. But this is counter intuitive based on a FSM wear indicate diagram being on outside at bottom. Although I'd like wear indicate on backside as the back/inner pads seem to wear faster.
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I've been putting the shim that has a full back on back/inner pad wich butts to piston. This gives the most (flattest) surface area between pad and piston.
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I've been putting the undercut shim with a horseshoe shaped back on outer pad which matches shape of torque plate. The undercut seem to fit as place to put for the wear indicator without riding on AS shim (on pad only). In all cases I find wear indicator is on pad only. FSM shows it at bottom of outer pad so this works.
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If anyone can shed some more on which shim goes where, I'm all ears?????:confused::(:bang::hmm:


Brake Caliper guru's
I'll adding some info in above thread also.
 
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Here a shot of 07LC w/64K and no record of rear brake work being done. You can see the anti shim plate on outside is the full (uncut). It has undercut shim with horseshoe back on back/inner against piston. It also has wear indicator on inner top. You can also see correct orientation of clips (Rear disc brake support plate)
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Orientation of clips (support plates) is same on rear
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Doing my rear brake pads and rotors using OEM this weekend. @2001LC are the Anti-squeal Shim and Inner Anti-squeal shims integrated in the kit now? FSM looks like they are separate (four shims per caliper) prior to installation. Also, have you determined the shim with horseshoe shaped back goes to the outside and full back shim goes against the piston? If I read correctly that has been your practice, but the 2007 pics above with no prior history of being changed showed the opposite? Has that changed your practice?
 
Shims are integrated now.

I've been trying the shim with integrated horse shoe back on outside pad. I've just done this on a 2000 now and don't here any issues. But indications are I've got shim reversed. So I suggest you put horseshoe backed shim on inside pad.
 
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread here however I found a solution to properly oriented wear clips making noise. I found that the lower outer clip had worked it's way in toward the rotor and I was able to grab it with a needle nose vice grips and pull it outboard away from the rotor. Noise gone! I guess if it happens again I'll have to take it apart and figure out how it is slipping out of place and likely replace. Anyway hope that helps someone. Been driving me nuts for the last few days after new pads and rotors.
 
FYI, shim kit from power stop (quarter of OEM price) works great. Many other shim kits likely work just as well. It only comes with one shim for each pad but with CNC Brake Stop Squeal applied between them they are dead quiet on my cruiser now. This application of deadening silicone/soap grease is recommended with factory pads as well and nets same results on OEM pads up front and Power Stop Pads I have in the rear.

I had loud brakes when cold, and they would get noisy occasionally when hot. My OEM pads did not have (or come with) anti squeal shims and $60 for a shim kit from Toyota is highway robbery.
 
aharlan001 said:
Sorry to resurrect an old thread here however I found a solution to properly oriented wear clips making noise. I found that the lower outer clip had worked it's way in toward the rotor and I was able to grab it with a needle nose vice grips and pull it outboard away from the rotor. Noise gone! I guess if it happens again I'll have to take it apart and figure out how it is slipping out of place and likely replace. Anyway hope that helps someone. Been driving me nuts for the last few days after new pads and rotors.
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Just re-did mine, and had re-used the OEM "pad support plates" for several brake changes, but couldn't get rid of the squeal. Smart shopper OEM price to replaces these little stamped parts is three bucks and change apiece, so I went with NAPA kit UP91446A, which had all 8 plates, plus rubber boots for the slide pins for ten bucks (ish). NAPA description is "NAPA Ultra Premium Rear Disc Brake Hardware Kit". Save you a few dollars... I had to go OEM for the shims (04946-60031) for my 2000.
 
I'm do a little update with respect to anti squeal shims orientation. Whereas the intuitive orientation has cut side of shim out, so wear indicator to outside. Which this matches inner rubber horseshoe to shape caliper. Then flat side or full rubber meet piston on inside.

But I find the inner brake pads are the thinnest 8 out of 10 time. The times, outer pad wearing faster (2 out of 10), is when the retainer clips or shims or pins have issues like sticking.

It may be wear indicator is affecting drag of inner pad, hanging up inner pads. IDK. But because I see so often inner pads wear faster. I've switched to wear indicator on inside. This puts shim in reverse of intuitive orientation for shape of rubber backing.

If I get reports back of pad wear more on wear indicate side, regardless of in or out. Then I'll go back to wear indicate out. But for now I'm place shim cut for wear indicator inside and wear indicate inside.

If anyone has put wear indicator out, and is now replacing pads. Speak up! Which pads have worn the most?
 
2001LC said:
Here a shot of 07LC w/64K and no record of rear brake work being done. You can see the anti shim plate on outside is the full (uncut). It has undercut shim with horseshoe back on back/inner against piston. It also has wear indicator on inner top. You can also see correct orientation of clips (Rear disc brake support plate)
View attachment 1776123 View attachment 1776124
Orientation of clips (support plates) is same on rear
View attachment 1776125
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for the front pads, should the retainer catch both of the shims and pad or only catch the inner shim and pad then the outer shim is isolated (which with clip for piston )?
 
zhloea said:
for the front pads, should the retainer catch both of the shims and pad or only catch the inner shim and pad then the outer shim is isolated (which with clip for piston )?
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I'm not sure what you're asking. But if you go back to OP (post #1). Look at FSM pictures posted there fpr front back pads & shims. That's how they go!
 
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Yes ^.

Note: The shim's clips that fit into pistons. Have a small span side and a large span side. Just as there is a small piston and a large piston. Match them!
 
2001LC said:
But I find the inner brake pads are the thinnest 8 out of 10 time. The times, outer pad wearing faster (2 out of 10), is when the retainer clips or shims or pins have issues like sticking.

It may be wear indicator is affecting drag of inner pad, hanging up inner pads. IDK. But because I see so often inner pads wear faster. I've switched to wear indicator on inside. This puts shim in reverse of intuitive orientation for shape of rubber backing.

If I get reports back of pad wear more on wear indicate side, regardless of in or out. Then I'll go back to wear indicate out. But for now I'm place shim cut for wear indicator inside and wear indicate inside.

If anyone has put wear indicator out, and is now replacing pads. Speak up! Which pads have worn the most?
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Just had the wear indicator on the inner pad, and it was far more worn. (Passenger side, which was where the wear indicator was making noise. I didn’t notice the driver side and can’t figure out much from examining the trash.)

I put the wear indicators on the outers of the new pads.
 
Wait... you don't use all 4 shims for each side? Isn't that what the FSM is showing?

I bought two kits and used all 4 shims on one caliper. The grooved one on the inside and the smooth one on the outside, but now that i think about it, they didn't quite fit right

You guys think I need to pull it all apart tomorrow?
 
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