I've been working on getting the old 40 back up and running. I have another thread detailing a bit of trouble with my stuck steering wheel. I haven't updated that thread because I'm trying to get the truck running so I can drive it down to a buddy to help get the steering wheel unstuck.
Onto today's problem, the darn thing just won't start. I rebuilt the carb many weeks ago. It fired up perfectly, first try, only to find a fuel leak I wasn't confident in fixing myself. Sent the carb (quadrajet on 350 swap) to get repaired and it got tested thoroughly before I got it back. Today I tried to figure out the problem and found a few issues. First, the wire leading into the coil is fried, it arced into the distributor. But looking closely, it doesn't appear to be damaged, other than the melted jacket. I haven't tested it for continuity yet, but I will. I've insulated it and will give it another try, at least just to try it before I buy a new coil. But this brings me to my next problem. I put a multimeter on the 12v input into the distributor. I swear I got 12v with the key in the start position one time today. Saw it with my own eyes, swear it happened. Now, I can't replicate it. Now I get nothing with the key in start position, and less than 1v during cranking.
I have a toggle switch start, so I am not using the starter pole on the ignition switch. On my truck, the distributor is wired to the accessory pole on the ignition. I put the key in the accessory position and hit the toggle switch to start it. In my limited knowledge with every car I've owned, the accessory pole gets very little to no power during cranking, which is why the radio and other accessories stop working when the engine cranks. But since my truck keeps the key in the accessory position, I suppose this doesn't apply.
Now, bypassing the fried wire on my coil, I have tested the 12v lead. Like I said, I swear I saw 12v today, but can't replicate it. What I see now is basically less than 1v when cranking and nothing when the key is on. I have no visible spark and I'm not about to lick my fingers and stand in a puddle. This 40 has always been finicky to start. If the battery isn't fully charged, it needs to be jumped, even with a new battery. But it did start first try after I rebuilt the carb. So now I'm trying to figure out which poles I need to be using, how to test with a multimeter and also figure out why it started right up after the rebuild but it won't now.
Can anyone shed a little light on how I should be wiring or testing my ignition? if I am starting in the accessory key position, how do I test voltage and troubleshoot this? Any help is appreciated.
Onto today's problem, the darn thing just won't start. I rebuilt the carb many weeks ago. It fired up perfectly, first try, only to find a fuel leak I wasn't confident in fixing myself. Sent the carb (quadrajet on 350 swap) to get repaired and it got tested thoroughly before I got it back. Today I tried to figure out the problem and found a few issues. First, the wire leading into the coil is fried, it arced into the distributor. But looking closely, it doesn't appear to be damaged, other than the melted jacket. I haven't tested it for continuity yet, but I will. I've insulated it and will give it another try, at least just to try it before I buy a new coil. But this brings me to my next problem. I put a multimeter on the 12v input into the distributor. I swear I got 12v with the key in the start position one time today. Saw it with my own eyes, swear it happened. Now, I can't replicate it. Now I get nothing with the key in start position, and less than 1v during cranking.
I have a toggle switch start, so I am not using the starter pole on the ignition switch. On my truck, the distributor is wired to the accessory pole on the ignition. I put the key in the accessory position and hit the toggle switch to start it. In my limited knowledge with every car I've owned, the accessory pole gets very little to no power during cranking, which is why the radio and other accessories stop working when the engine cranks. But since my truck keeps the key in the accessory position, I suppose this doesn't apply.
Now, bypassing the fried wire on my coil, I have tested the 12v lead. Like I said, I swear I saw 12v today, but can't replicate it. What I see now is basically less than 1v when cranking and nothing when the key is on. I have no visible spark and I'm not about to lick my fingers and stand in a puddle. This 40 has always been finicky to start. If the battery isn't fully charged, it needs to be jumped, even with a new battery. But it did start first try after I rebuilt the carb. So now I'm trying to figure out which poles I need to be using, how to test with a multimeter and also figure out why it started right up after the rebuild but it won't now.
Can anyone shed a little light on how I should be wiring or testing my ignition? if I am starting in the accessory key position, how do I test voltage and troubleshoot this? Any help is appreciated.