Our 2015 LX 570 hvac door is working properly thankfully! With the number of time the Lexus dealership changed the filter for the previous owner I was assuming it would be broken when I went to check it out.
IMPORTANT: Check your HVAC recirculate door and answer Poll
- Thread starter John E Davies
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Checked mine today and put me down for another broken door. When putting the A/C in recirc, the door is down. I can easily open the door without any resistance at all. What is weird is that when I turn the truck off I can feel the actuator trying to close it.
Initial inspection and I don't see anything broken. I've heard of folks trying to "gently" push the door back into the gear so that the door stays open when in recirc mode. But I'm honestly too chicken to force it and end up breaking something that may well be just something that slipped out of gear.
Any thoughts/ideas?
Initial inspection and I don't see anything broken. I've heard of folks trying to "gently" push the door back into the gear so that the door stays open when in recirc mode. But I'm honestly too chicken to force it and end up breaking something that may well be just something that slipped out of gear.
Any thoughts/ideas?
In my case, I had to lie on my back in the footwell and look up into the dash to see the mechanism where it had become disconnected. I used a long screwdriver to pop it back into place from underneath.
Jan 2019: purchased 2017 LC...39,000 miles.
Dec 2019: read this thread, checked my filter in recirculate mode...door closed, no movement, filter looked like a rat's nest.
June 2020: Toyota dealership diagnosis ...new blower assembly ($682) plus $1,435 labor. Fortunately, I had purchased an extended warranty with a $250 deductible. Disappointed Toyota has such a pathetic design flaw.
Dec 2019: read this thread, checked my filter in recirculate mode...door closed, no movement, filter looked like a rat's nest.
June 2020: Toyota dealership diagnosis ...new blower assembly ($682) plus $1,435 labor. Fortunately, I had purchased an extended warranty with a $250 deductible. Disappointed Toyota has such a pathetic design flaw.
I thought this was a big deal on my 14 LX but it’s really not. I propped the door open for recirculation mode in the summer. Better AC performance etc. As it stands, my 20 Cruiser, with functioning door, is almost exclusively in recirculating mode above 75F as stated in the manual.
I just removed the prop going into winter for fresh air only mode. This prevents condensation build up on the windows.
I still have plastic JB Weld but the above works for me on my wife’s mall cruiser.
I just removed the prop going into winter for fresh air only mode. This prevents condensation build up on the windows.
I still have plastic JB Weld but the above works for me on my wife’s mall cruiser.
I have been steadfastly ignoring this thread for two months now. Today I read the entire thing and decided to check mine. Ofc, mine is broken right where everyone else is. The bottom half of the plastic insert on the door appears to be totally gone. Has anyone successfully rebuilt the connector on the door. I refuse to replace and entire blower because of this. I replaced an entire refrigerator last year because of a tiny piece of broken plastic that was non replaceable. This far, no further!
The bottom part that broke off is likely sitting in the filter housing grove and accessible to retrieve. Others have rebuilt that area stronger than new. it will take some Mud thread reading, special glue, above average mechanical skills, a days time, and the standard cussing. But if you’ve drawn your line, tear into it!
I'm so glad I found this forum and just joined. Been driving my 2014 for about three years and wondering why I could always smell outside smells even while I had the AC set to recirculate! Problem solved ... the female part of the door assembly is broken. Ughhh.
I've read through both of the posts related to this topic and want to try the JB Weld or Epoxy solution but have some questions. I am not very handy but being that it is so expensive to fix I figured I'd give it a try.
1. Am I right in assuming that when the door is down, it is operating as fresh air and not recirculating?
2. Should I apply the JB Weld or epoxy to the (i) post. (ii) the female part, or (iii) cover both parts up so its all locked together?
Clearly I'm a little confused on how to use the JB Weld or epoxy. Any help, tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I've read through both of the posts related to this topic and want to try the JB Weld or Epoxy solution but have some questions. I am not very handy but being that it is so expensive to fix I figured I'd give it a try.
1. Am I right in assuming that when the door is down, it is operating as fresh air and not recirculating?
2. Should I apply the JB Weld or epoxy to the (i) post. (ii) the female part, or (iii) cover both parts up so its all locked together?
Clearly I'm a little confused on how to use the JB Weld or epoxy. Any help, tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
1. Yes, when the door is down it is in fresh air mode.
2. I did (ii) the female part on the door because on mine that's what was broken. I disassembled things enough to remove the door and did the gluing and reinforcing on my workbench. There are excellent threads on here with extremely useful step by step guides with photos for pretty much any part of the mechanism that's broken. Before you start, read through those and you'll get a good idea of what you're in for and what tools/glue you need. I used the 2-part 3M product listed in one of the threads and it was perfect for the job. You will be a lot "handier" when done because you'll learn a lot!
thank you so much! I’ll do some more reading and come back with some pictures when done (if it works haha).
2015 LX here. My door works just fine, but I want to include two observations:
1. My mechanism is whisper quiet. I do not hear any faint buzzing sounds at all.
2. There is no warning label on mine.
Thanks, and good luck on a fix, gentlemen. I may be needing it in the future too so I am watching this closely.
1. My mechanism is whisper quiet. I do not hear any faint buzzing sounds at all.
2. There is no warning label on mine.
Thanks, and good luck on a fix, gentlemen. I may be needing it in the future too so I am watching this closely.
I wanted to come back with an update. I used a chopstick to apply the JB Weld "Plastic Weld" and it worked. I hope it lasts!
Thought I would also share with the forum the sticker that I made. I'm going to attach the .pdf version if anybody wants to use it. I just cut it out, then "laminated" it by using packaging tape on both sides. I then used Crazy Glue to stick it to the door.
Super stoked this worked because it sounded like an expensive repair otherwise! Thanks for all the information contained in this thread
Thought I would also share with the forum the sticker that I made. I'm going to attach the .pdf version if anybody wants to use it. I just cut it out, then "laminated" it by using packaging tape on both sides. I then used Crazy Glue to stick it to the door.
Super stoked this worked because it sounded like an expensive repair otherwise! Thanks for all the information contained in this thread
201k miles on my 08 LC. Been changed a few times at the dealership. I'm 3rd owner but someone wrote on the door
So here's a good reason to never use carcarekiosk.com. The video is just slightly wrong on cabin filter replacement. 
www.carcarekiosk.com
Cabin Air Filter Replacement: 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser 5.7L V8
Follow these steps to replace cabin air filter on a 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser 5.7L V8
Others have linked to YouTube. Give it a shot!
I lock the glovebox and remove the key when I take my '15 in for service, they even note that they inspect the filer on the paperwork until I point out that the glove box is locked and I have the key....never trust them with changing the filter
Put me in the broken door and dirty filter camp. Worst part is that I had that part of the dash pulled apart this summer.
The broken piece is still there as the rubber gasket is holding it.
One question, in looking at the broken bit it appears that originally it is a hole for the sprocket to fit. So the piece has actually broken in two places. I see where gluing it is temping but getting glue in both places is tough. Then getting back over the sprocket.
The broken piece is still there as the rubber gasket is holding it.
One question, in looking at the broken bit it appears that originally it is a hole for the sprocket to fit. So the piece has actually broken in two places. I see where gluing it is temping but getting glue in both places is tough. Then getting back over the sprocket.
Bummer. If you disassemble enough to get the white door out, you can retrieve the parts that make the hole and glue those back together. The sprocket has just enough movement available to get it back in as you reinstall the white door. Mine was also broken in 2 places. I have no idea if you could glue it in place without removing the white door. It's a finicky job, but doable without removing the dash.
Thanks for that. Sounds like a reasonable project. How much did you have to disassemble?? This summer I had the whole glove box out as I installed a glass breakage sensor.
