Well I still have the cruiser and finally installed the o2 sensors and they work great. Check engine light went off after running 1 minute after installation. Haven't checked the mpg the performance is better. Even my wife noticed. Tonight I bought the 45 dollar r134 conversion kit from NAPA. Came with three cans of 134 co2, oil, sealer combo, guage fittings and hose. The AC has never worked on this truck but I figured I'd give it a try. Screwed on the new fittings and pumped in a can and a half and the AC was ice cold. My wife made me shut it off. After about half of the first can the compressor kicked on. No noises so I'm good unless its empty again tomorrow. Now all I need is bumpers and paint and I'll have a pretty nice truck. I couldn't be much happier. I guess if I had 4.88 gears I'd be happier. Anyway thoughts of selling this and getting another minivan are fading. Although I still miss cruising at 80mph and getting 20 mpg.
I'm back with updates
- Thread starter DJForrestA
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Well, thats good, I'm glad you didn't sell it.
There is some merit in going slow though....
There is some merit in going slow though....
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did you vacuum your system
i see u charged your A.C. but di dyou vacuum it down first (all of the air out ) before you put the 134 in?
i see u charged your A.C. but di dyou vacuum it down first (all of the air out ) before you put the 134 in?
extremetoy1 said:
Not to mention the oils are probably not compatible, if they are...then there is now too much oil in the system. If a vacuum was not pulled, there is moisture in the system. The receiver/dryer was not changed....etc, etc...
Sorry to rain on anyones parade...but proper A/C work requires that certain procedures be done. Especially as concerns a retrofit.
Time and time again you read about someone who has changed over to 134a using a "kit" suffer major repairs later. If you follow the instructions on most kits.. you would be lead to believe that charging the system simply involves "pouring in the cold"!
Indeed, if you have a system that has been inoperative due to a low charge...and you add refrigerant, you will likely get some cold air at the vents (for awhile). But, IMO..if you don't take the time to locate and repair leaks, install new O-rings, install new dryer, and pump the system down...then you're asking for trouble.
A/C rant over.........sorry.
- Thread starter
- #5
Its cold as ice and no problems. My father in law is running a suburban we used the same kit on four years ago and its still running cold on the same charge. My cruiser sat idol for a couple years and it did leak down. Ac in my experience seals pretty dependably on vehicles that have normal use. It took 28 oz of 134a and the system calls for 33 so it must have been pretty dry. Have used it every day for two weeks and it is still ice cold. No noises or issues at the compressor. At 12 bucks a can if I have to add some every couple years it won't be earth shaking. So don't worry about the rain. I got the results I desired and it took all of 10 minutes and cost 40 bucks. Having used this kit serveral times for years I don't give alot of creedance to the doomsayers and I've never had a problem. The way I see it if you do your compressor was bad to begin with. Hell I used this kit on a IH travellall that had been sitting in a field for 10 years and was 35 years old at the time. That was nine years ago and while it isn't quite as cold as the day I converted it it still blows cold enough to do the job.
I won't waste my telling you all the reasons why a 134a conversion should be done correctly. You have already joined the "pour in the cool" crowd, and will never post back here when your compressor fails, or your system clogs up with a thick black goo.
Did you at least pull a vacuum on the system?
There is a natural tendency for CFC and HCFC ( r-12, 134a, r-22. r-502 etc.) refrigerants to absorb water and form acid. This tendency is referred to in the industry as hygroscopicity. Hygroscopicity is the reason why we originally developed vacuum pumps to remove moisture laden air from the system. It's the reason there's a dessicant in the system to absorb anything the vacuum left behind.
Good luck Sir.
Did you at least pull a vacuum on the system?
There is a natural tendency for CFC and HCFC ( r-12, 134a, r-22. r-502 etc.) refrigerants to absorb water and form acid. This tendency is referred to in the industry as hygroscopicity. Hygroscopicity is the reason why we originally developed vacuum pumps to remove moisture laden air from the system. It's the reason there's a dessicant in the system to absorb anything the vacuum left behind.
Good luck Sir.
- Thread starter
- #7
Bro all I can tell you is that it works. Like I've said I've done this on a dozen different vehicles over the last 13 years and never had a compressor fail. I've had a couple lose some coolant over the winter but thats the worst of it. You may be pissed that is doesn't take a phd to fix this problem 90% of the time but sorry bro it basically pretty simple. Now if you continue to pour in coolant and oil when your compressor is screaming and it gets warm within a week you're right there are definatly bigger issues. But for a system that doesn't work initially but holds cold and the compressor is fine Why pay someone 75 bucks an hour to go buy the same kit and itstall it. I'll take my 10 minutes and forty bucks and be happy all summer. BTW I appreciate you're knowledge on the subject and the information you've shared. Don't want you to think I'm not appreciative because I am. My real world experience has been that if you engage the compressor and it is quiet and you find the lines hold cold over time adding 134 is a simple and safe procedure for any rookies auto owner.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Hey Forest, if you can get that beast over 80mph it will likely be able to hold speed and cruise....until you hafta go uphill at all that is
Above 2750rpms mine will hold speed from stock to my current setup still the same thing. It just needs a little help from gravity or some good drafting technique. Dont sell out...the cruiser!!!!!
Above 2750rpms mine will hold speed from stock to my current setup still the same thing. It just needs a little help from gravity or some good drafting technique. Dont sell out...the cruiser!!!!!
If he never opened the system, there's no air in it. The old refrigerant would have leaked out until the system pressure was equal to the outside atmosphere, and then stopped. No reason for moisture to enter. Of course, there's still a leak to contend with (if I understood what's going on) but maybe the 'stop leak' stuff will do something.
-Spike
-Spike
Fine with me guys, its your rig.
- Thread starter
- #11
Don't let him fool it. It works and great. Just add straight 134 a until your compressor kicks on and see if it operates ok. Drive it for a couple weeks and see if it holds the 134. If it does add until its full. That way you don't waste 134 and you can see if the system checks out. I usually put in one can of the oil\sealer\134 stuff and then just add 134 straight after that. Or you can take it to the shop and pay them to do the same thing at 500 bucks.
DJForrestA said:
IMO it is irresponsible to come on the forum and advise others to perform this modification this way. You may think you have gotten away with just dumping in some 134a because its blowing cool right now. It doesn't take much searching to find those who regretted not doing it right the first time.
The PAG/ESTER oil you added might not be compatible with the mineral oil that was in the system before. If it is...you probably have too much oil in the system. The sealers in the kits can fill small holes in some systems..but they cure by exposure to air. If you have any air in the system then the same "sealer" can clog your expansion valve/device. If you have moisture in the system and traces of R12 (which has chlorine) then it will form hydrochloric acid. Moisture (even one drop) can cause freezing of the expansion valve/device. How can you think any of this could be good? Why do you suppose A/C shops have and use the equipment they do?
At best... you have charged an A/C system the least efficient way humanly possible. More likely, you have created a situation where your components are now subject to accelerated wear because of contamination.
Please post back here (honestly) when your system fails.
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- Thread starter
- #13
Maybye you've ignored all my previous posts. I've used these kits for years and never had a failure. I still know where 8 of the 12 cars I've used it on are and they've never had a compressor failure. You are proposing tearing down the entire system/ installing all new seals and reassembling when a small shot of sealer and a recharge is all that is needed. I'd be honest if I had had problems but I haven't. It is also irresponible to give the worst case scenario as the norm when the chance is very small. Either way you'll have to tear the system down. I'd rather spend 40 bucks and use my head then drive to an AC shop, give them a blank check and say make it work. The only time I've not seen these kits work is with a broken hose or a bad compressor to begin with. Like I said if its making noise or leaking profusely rebuild the system. IF not add a shot of sealer and recharge. If I have my first failure of 12 I'll be sure to let you know.
DJForrestA said:
Then, in effect...you are saying that is not necessary to: Not overcharge your system with oil, no need to prevent air or moisture from entering, no need to change the drier (desiccant lasts forever I guess), no need to locate and properly fix leaks (the miracle sealer will do that).
Evidently, from your experience...the whole rest of the of A/C world are wasting their time and money on Manifold gauges, Vacuum pumps, etc...and they are bilking us in the process. Heck, all you really need is a good ear (compressor not making noise) and to make sure there is not a geyser of a leak in the hoses.
Man, you learn something everyday!
Thank you for straightening me out. Good day Sir.
