Ignition Trouble

[Mat60]

Hello All,
Having some issues with the Cruiser. She stopped running last night and after some initial diagnostics I'm not seeing the problem. Here's what I know...
* I have gas to the carb
* I have power / the engine turns over
* There is no spark from the HT / Coil lead
* Replaced coil with cheapo ( its Sunday)
Still no spark.
* Volt meter to (+) coil terminal to ground shows 12.8 V

What do I do next?

 

[NocalFJ60]

Check your fuses if you haven't. Wonder if the igniter is bad that sits on top of the coil. So after replacing the coil you still don't have a spark on the lead going from coil to distributor cap?

 

[Mat60]

Checked fuses first. All good.
All HT leads are new from Toyota 6mos. ago.

I suspect the ignitor atop the coil too... but I need to know for sure. Why am I getting 12.8V at the (+) coil terminal yet no spark? With two different coils?

How do I test the ignitor?

 

[Norris Marshak]

Igniter

I'll take a stab: voltage in, no spark out. I've been told igniters go south without warning.

 

[Mat60]

Just checked the trusty SOR catalogue. The Ignitor lists for $394.
I'd like to be sure before I fork out that much cash.

Is there some way to test that the ignitor is cooked?

There must be some series test to iliminate other possibilities?

 

[Heartworm]

I bet that you can get a cheaper igniter (used) at CruiserParts.net (888-941-3450). I

 

[dfmorse]

Mat60;

Grounding on all of our FJ cruisers is alway suspect. Check that the clamp that hold the coil and ignitor (transistor ignition) is well grounded to the fender. Then, check that the fender is bonded to the firewall and the frame and the engine block. You can do this with alligator clips and some wire, as a temp grounding arrangement.

I'm assuming u have a reluctance distributor -no points.

The procedure is a bit lengthily and has pictures that will be needed to trouble shoot the ignitor.

The output transistor can be checked by using pub 36104E. The FSM on the 2F engine repair. See page 8-6.

For example:
U have checked the "Power source" for Ignitor-USA FJ series; by measuring the voltage from the + coil terminal to ground. Do this again and measure from the fender ground and then from the engine block [ground]. Should be around 12v, as u have measured before.

Next is a check on the "Power Transistor OFF condition. This is an almost quote from the book:
Connect the voltmeter + lead to the (-) Neg terminal and the (-) lead [voltmeter] to the ignitor body; u should read around 12 volts.

Any further check u will need the book because u have to rig some test looms to hot wire into the ignitor.

...

 

[Mat60]

Exactly what I was looking for Mr Morse.
Thank you!
Will be tomorrow before I get a chance to check it out.

 

[Norris Marshak]

I'm not certain what the Canadian dollar is worth at the moment, but clearly those of you Nprth of the border are now in the game. Tested coil and igniter at Cruiserparts.net $100. 1-888-941-3450. I think you can warranty it for a year for 10% more. Hope this helps.

 

[Mat60]

Thanks for all the advice.
Forgot that I downloaded the 2f Manual a while back. Should be able to get at it tomorrow.

 

[REKCUT]

You said you have 12.8v from one side of the coil. What do you have from the other side. It should also be the same. If it is then your problem may be the distributor. Unplug the green connector from the line into the dist and do a cont test. You should get a signal back if you the wire going into the dist. If you dont get a return signal then the wire int the dist is bad. I had this happen 3 months ago and fought the coil and igniter for a month before i found out it was the dist.

 

[Mat60]

12.8 from both sides of coil, grounded to igniter body.
The truck has had the desmog and FJ40Jim dizzy rebuild.
May be the wires (through the green conector) to the dist. I seem to remember wraping them in electrical tape for some reason. (???)
The wife said she was Puddle jumping with the kids the day before it died....

 

[Tinker]

The igniter went on my '83 so I replaced it with an Accel 300 ignition & coil: still have it (blew head/gasket shortly thereafter & had the engine from my '84 installed instead). Needed a Mallory adapter to get the tach to work.

 

[REKCUT]

12.8 from both sides of coil, grounded to igniter body.
The truck has had the desmog and FJ40Jim dizzy rebuild.
May be the wires (through the green conector) to the dist. I seem to remember wraping them in electrical tape for some reason. (???)
The wife said she was Puddle jumping with the kids the day before it died....

If you have 12.8 form both sides the coil and igniter are both fine. You need to unplug the wire outside of the dizzy and test it. If you can get a continuation signal then its good but if you cant its bad. It just about has to be this. If power is comming out of the coil and there is no spark at the plugs then it has to be between the coil and plugs and that leaves the dizzy.