Ignition Problems...making me insane! (Long)

UltraFJ40

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First off, sorry for posting a question that has been asked at least a hundred times this month. I did search but could not find anything that related to my problem.

I just put in an HEI by Davis Unified. I removed my dist. and coil. Being sure to place the new dist in the exact same position my rotor was in when I took out the old one. Once in place which went decent except for the heater pipe, (no big deal). I have a wiring problem that doesn't match up. I have printed wiring diagrams for refernce from here and have them for the F engine as well as a few others.

They say they are for the FJ, FJ(L) or the 71 FJ 40. Problem is, some of the diagrams have connections going to the old coil from the battery which I assume is the built in coil side of the new dist. The others don't. They have wires from the ammeter going to the coil, some have them from the friggin' ignition switch. I am going to try and figure this out a little more, but damn this is frustrating.

These are the wires I am clueless about: The red wire coming off the side of the starter, one book says to the coil, the other doesn't mention it. The HEI instructions say wire from battery to the batt connection on the dist, WTF?

I guess I'm just frustrated and venting, but does anyone have an idea of how to explain this wiring mess in english. The books and diagrams I have are all contradicting each other!

Thanks in advance for any help.

Doug M. /71 FJ
 

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All you need to hook up is a ignition switch controlled 12v power to the battery connection on this distrib. The only other connection that I am aware of on these is a tach hook up.

Hope this helps.

-Steve

If you are still confused, PM me, and I will give you a call.
 
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on the stock set up. the wire off the starter is(or should not be needed) its purpose it to send a full 12volts to the coil on startup, so it would go directly to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor(you don't need or have this anymore with the DUI)

I dont have DUI on my fj45 but when I replaced the starter with a gear reduction unit I left the wire off(that goes to the coil) and no problem. But with the DUI it's not needed at all.

I don't know jack about the DUI, just what the wire is for ;)

John H
 

UltraFJ40

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I can't tell you what a relief it is to have you guys lend your experience to a complete eletrical moron.:doh: I did exactly what Poser said and it started and ran perfectly. OK, it ran for a few minutes then died. But when it was at idle it was perfect and strong. I started it again and went to shut it off and it kept running. That told me the black wire was for the ignition switch. The red one is not needed so I can eliminate that one. Thats it, no more wires to F with. :D No more splicing or switching them up.

Thank you so much. Now if I can keep a charge on my batt, I'm good to go. I'd like to get this thing to FSUSteves house so he could take a peek. I really don't want him to have to come over to fix my junk when I first see him!

Oh yeah, I hooked the valve sub assembly or solenoid on the carb to the tach side of the dist, is that ok?

Thanks again,

Doug M./Running 71 FJ
 

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Guess that I am not sure if hooking it there is alright, as I only ever ran the idle solenoid to a switched 12v. You are talking about a stock Asian carb, correct?
 

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No, my bad I should have said its a non-USA carb from Spectre. When I connect the wire the solenoid clicks like its in an on position. ??? What should I connect it to? Any idea?

I know I should re-gap my plugs (open them up) as the HEI makes a lot more power (in case someone else reads this).

BTW, check your PMs when you can.

Doug M.
 

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My understanding is this solenoid is controlling the fuel in the idle circut, if you do not have power to it, it does not click, you do not get the truck to idle for anything. I would connect it to the same circut that the power going to the coil is comming from. The solenoid only requires a small amount of power to do its task, and the coil in the distributor needs a switched 12v also.

Open the plugs up as soon as possible, if you have not already. It makes a huge difference.

Got my note. You are welcome man, no problem. Glad to help.

Have a good one!

-Steve
 
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I put a chevy HEI in my 75/76 crossbreed. I used a 12 volt relay switched on by the positive that went to my old ballast resistor. (the old ignition was powered by a dodge coil and resistor) The power to the HEI came fron the battery via a fusible link and 12gauge wire. I hear the heavier wire can be important. The relay will keep the ignition from draining the battery when the car is off. Any auto parts store should have the relay you need, get a headlight or aux light relay. I used a positive from the voltage regulator for the idle solenoid. The tach output would be a bad idea since the signal gets smaller and smaller at lower RPM, possibly allowing the solenoid to close at idle.
 
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The HEI and DUI's don't need any connections directly to the battery, or any connection that is HOT (battery) all the time. The 12vdc required is SWITCHED. The switch is your ignition switch, so it will shut off when you turn off the key.

As Pimp stated the wire from the starter is to provide the full 12vdc to the coil when starting, and is only required for vehicles with ballast resitors, which function to reduce the voltage to the coil when in RUN mode.

As far as the ASIN carb solenoid, that must be connected to the same source type, ignition/swtched 12vdc as the HEI. The solenoid must be hot with the key in the run position. If not your Cruiser will not idle when warm, or choke off.
 
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I was not clear. :whoops: Power to the HEI comes from the battery through the fusible link and RELAY I mentioned. (A relay is an electrically operated switch) The relay is switched by the ignition switch using the wire that went to the old ignition system. It is my understanding that the higher energy requirement of an HEI system could damage the not so heavy duty wiring that fed the old coil or even the ignition switch itself, particularly if the coil shorts. You are correct that hooking the thing straight to the battery is a poor idea, as you would be unable to shut the truck off.

BTW SpaceGhost, I saw TBI on your truck spec. Is that on your F? I am starting to look into getting rid of my carb for something a little more modern and not so troublesome. What sort of setup are you using?
 

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