Ignition gremlin….

[sleepycruiser]

Why would my ‘64 FJ crank/turn over when I turn the key to the start position, but won’t actually start the engine until I let go of the key and it is in the run position? I swear that before it would crank/start the engine when in start position. I’ve checked the wiring and it is wired correctly. The only thing that I changed was added LEDs in the gauge cluster. Maybe I should take those out and see if those are making the 60 year old FJ wonky.

Should I change out the ignition switch? If so, which one would work with my ‘64?

Am I losing my mind?

Every day is an adventure!

 

[TEakins]

Make sure your ground strap to the frame has a clean connection. It fixed my ignition hesitation. Always a good starting point.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Make sure your ground strap to the frame has a clean connection. It fixed my ignition hesitation. Always a good starting point.

From the starter to frame? I’ll check that tomorrow when I have a chance.

 

[TEakins]

From the starter to frame? I’ll check that tomorrow when I have a chance.

Yes that is the one. Just take it off and hit it with a wire brush or wheel. Your Cruiser will love you - like scratching your dog behind the ears.

 

[45Dougal]

When you're cranking it, the ignition coil is fed directly, but when you release its fed via a resistor on the coil iirc.
Therefore there are two separate feeds from the ignition switch. One of them has lost continuity.

Could be your ignition switch, but most likely you've disturbed the ignition switch connector while fitting LEDs in the panel (they won't cause you any problem).

Separate the ignition switch connector and spray some wd40 in there and jiggle it back together a few times.
Spray some more in the back of your ignition switch and jiggle back and forth.
Check wiring at the coil and add a photo if it persists

 

[sleepycruiser]

When you're cranking it, the ignition coil is fed directly, but when you release its fed via a resistor on the coil iirc.
Therefore there are two separate feeds from the ignition switch. One of them has lost continuity.

Could be your ignition switch, but most likely you've disturbed the ignition switch connector while fitting LEDs in the panel (they won't cause you any problem).

Separate the ignition switch connector and spray some wd40 in there and jiggle it back together a few times.
Spray some more in the back of your ignition switch and jiggle back and forth.
Check wiring at the coil and add a photo if it persists

Thanks for that advice. I was thinking I might have jiggled a wire loose, but I checked for continuity at the battery, starter solenoid, alternator and they all seem to have continuity. I will squirt some WD40 in there as suggested.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Closing this out. After thinking for at least 78 hours I realized that the ignition gremlin popped up after one of the wires came off and I re-attached it. My flawed thinking was that since both the studs on the ignition cylinder had continuity that they had a similar function. After looking at the FSM I decided to pull the cylinder out. Sure enough, I was wired to the ACC instead of the IG. So although it would start it was only after the key was let go. Wires to IG it operates properly.