Ignition Control Module? (1 Viewer)

[theBlue62]

Good Day to all! I am the equivalent of a long-time listener, first time caller. I have sifted through dozens of threads and you all have helped me before. I hope my first thread will garner the response I need to get me rolling again.

My ride:
`88 FJ62, pretty much stock. Its my Daily Driver, with occasional pop-up towing. ~239,000 mi on the Odo.

My problem:
Worked just perfect the night before. then the next morning, crank, no start.

Things I know:
No spark at Plugs.
The Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when key is the "on" position.
Pressurized fuel in the fuel rail.
Good voltage on battery.
All Fuses are good.
All relays are good (bench checked)
Rotor Spins
The points and pick up stuff under the dist cap was a little junked up, so I cleaned it really well
NO Voltage at the coil (during cranking, or "on")

I replaced the Ignition Coil, Dist Cap, Rotor bug, plug wires, (throwing a cheaper part at it in hopes for a quick fix) I had most of those parts lying around for my next tune up.

My Ignitor has a connector on it that has 4 posts inside of it, plus two leads that go to the coil. (4 in, 2 out).
That is where I'm getting confused. A lot of posts on here are dealing with the 2 wire connector for the ignitor. I've priced New & Used Ignitors (A.K.A. Ignition Control Module to Advance, O'riley's and Autozone), and am not too pleased. At the connector too the the Ignitor, I have 12 volts between the Red & Brown(?) wire of the plug. So, I'm seeing voltage going into the ignitor, and none coming out. Is this a fair assumption that I need a new one?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
I'd post some pics, but I think I need to be registered for at least 2 days...

 

[Lugal]

Hopefully someone who knows 62s will chime in, but check this thread for my FJ60 igniter repair: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/igniter-repair-for-cheapskates.802849/

 

[theBlue62]

I did see that post, and I was wondering if there is a way to just wire the GM style in to the connector...for troubleshooting purposes... In a perfect world I would shell out the $400 for an OEM replacement, but I'm still not quite to the point of shoehorning in a compatible component, yet.

 

[Lugal]

If it's the same as in the 60, you could probably snip the wires in the original, attach spade connectors, and connect up a GM unit. If that works, then you know the culprit. If it doesn't, you could reattach your original w/o any ugly mods. But before you go that route, have you looked at the FSM for guidance?

 

[theBlue62]

Okay, so as it turns out, I do have voltage at the Ignition coil. And according to the Book, I've got codes 12,14, and 51. It looks like I might have to get back into the distributor and check some stuff out...tomorrow

 

[EastCanFJ62]

I just went through this nearly identical issue and it turned out the problem was my distributor. Not saying this is your issue, just my 2 cents.

Mark

 

[freepowder]

Don't have a 62 so your mileage will vary. . .

I tried the GM swap on my 60, no joy. Finally ended up going to the junkyard and stripping all three of the 60s there of coil and ignitor.

Check Cruiser Yard. I think they had some ignitor/coils for sale quite reasonable at one point.

 

[theBlue62]

Thanks Freep...I had never heard of them. I will definitely check them out.

Code 12 - no "NE" or "G" Signal to ECU with in 2 seconds of cranking
Code 14 - no "IGF" signal 6-8 times in succession
Code 51 - no "IDL" signal or NSW

Since I do have voltage at the coil, should I go back to looking at the the Distributor?
Mark, how hard was it change out your Dist? From what I've read here on Mud, it can be quite a bear...

 

[freepowder]

Thanks Freep...I had never heard of them. I will definitely check them out.

Code 12 - no "NE" or "G" Signal to ECU with in 2 seconds of cranking
Code 14 - no "IGF" signal 6-8 times in succession
Code 51 - no "IDL" signal or NSW

Since I do have voltage at the coil, should I go back to looking at the the Distributor?
Mark, how hard was it change out your Dist? From what I've read here on Mud, it can be quite a bear...

Check the FSM on the proceedures--I"m a FJ60 guy and 62s are a deep and terrifying mystery to me.
Look for Cruiser Yard in the vendor section of the forum.

 

[theBlue62]

After hassling ALL the salvage yards in the area, I have found out that I might have the only Non-Moving 62 in Tornado alley.
So I'm going to order from CruiserYard (thanks to Freepower)
Im going to get the Distributor...
The 3FE book had me check the Resistance of the Pick up coil (G- to NE) and I was reading 800k to 1.2 M ohm...way high, should be 185-265 ohm

Now to study the "Do's & Don'ts" of 3FE Distributor Replacement, and wait for my Salvage dizzy!
Any tips are always helpful, and thanks for all the help so far!

 

[theBlue62]

 

[EastCanFJ62]

It was not difficult at all...worst part was getting number one cylinder TDC...lots of info on this site for help on that plus the FSM if you have one. You're do fine..good luck!

Mark

 

[TobyB]

...and yes, it does sound like your distributor isn't generating a trigger signal to the ECU...

t

 

[SteveH]

Now to study the "Do's & Don'ts" of 3FE Distributor Replacement

One standard one for any dist. replacement is to be DARN SURE the oil pump drive shaft is fully seated, or your distributor will be the least of your problems. Watch this like a hawk.

 

[theBlue62]

I'm going to try and get everything lined up, and marked and labeled and everything before I take the old one out...hopefully I can line up the new one before the installation. IF that Pump shaft is not lined up, will the Dist sit flush?

 

[theBlue62]

Well...hopefully the salvage distributor will be here tomorrow. I orderded it last Wednesday, I guess a week isin't so bad for a salvage part to be pulled and shipped. It sure is tough seeing a motionless cruiser in the driveway though.