If you were to do it again..???

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I like the 2F motors, but since you have a SBC, stick with that. TBI is pretty simple and robust. I'd take fuel injection over a carb, but that's just me.

If you want a cheap but good set up, consider an SM420/SM465 to Cruiser 3 speed case. Tt won't be fast, but you can't really drive an FJ40 fast anyway. The 4 speed transmissions are nice because they are short, and leave you with reasonable drivelines. Plus they tend to be very inexpensive-#$50-$100 for a working example.

If you want something really nice, but expensive, SBC/ NV4500/ Split case would be a great combo and the gearing is deep enough to cover almost anything you would want to do.
 
It would have a Ranger Overdrive, SBC, stock LC trans and split t-case, ARB lockers F&R. Hint, this would be a sweet setup for an FJ40 too. ;)

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Why a Ranger Overdrive instead of an H55f?
 
reliable and good looking. I know how I want it to look, What I am hoping for from you lot is the best way to get a simplified, economic :hhmm:, mechanical build.

personally i think a 4bt would be the perfect daily driver / weekend warrior .

there is only 1 wire going to the thing and it turns it off not on , there isn't much to go wrong with them . personally i think it will get better millage then a sbc or any stock toyota engine .

the only draw back i see of the 4bt is that it is about 200-300 lbs heavier then a sbc , i think the 4bt is about 700lbs dry compared to a 550lbs sbc .

i have to stop talking about this or my cruiser is going to be in pieces again .
 
I have become a fan of EFI of many reasons, but a couple of large ones that most here never consider...

All weather starting.... when it is 20-30 below and you forget to plug the block heater in, EFI will usually kick over and start in one or two revolutions of the crank. Ask a carb to do THAT!

Water crossings... I have had to tear down and practically rebuild several carbs on the trails during the past few years do to water intrusion. Usually not from contaminated fuel caches... we are pretty good about avoiding that. But from water that finds it's way into the intake tract/snorkel. The bowl vent of most carbs is in or beside the carb throat. Any water that getds into the intake tract (more than you might expect, even on snorkeled rigs) will be pulled in and pass through the engine... normally not a problem. But small amounts find their way into the bowl vents as they pass by. one the water is in the bowl, it collects and winds up clogging things up and shutting down the show.


EFI on the other hand.... completely sealed under the hood, so water entry in this manner is eliminated. And if you do wind up with water contamination in your tank... the high pressure in an EFI system will blast the water through, not allowing it to clog up the way a carb does. If the contamination is bad, the rig will run like crap... but it will run. I have been amazed at how much water an efi system will put up with.


These to factors are enough all by themselves to make EFI the hands down winner in my book.

Mark...
 
Why a Ranger Overdrive instead of an H55f?
The Long Ranger acts as an adapter between a Chevy bell housing and the Toyota transmission. One item gives you an adapter and overdrive, at a cost savings. I think the LR also adds about the right amount of length to the drive train that the V8 would be far enough forward to use a mechanical fan and the t-case would stay close enough to it's original position that you wouldn't need to get new Drive shafts. No short rear DS! unless you add the mythical Toybox.:rolleyes:

Shawn and I have kicked this idea around for a couple of years. If I win the lottery I'll nail down the details. ;)

Personally I wouldn't see much advantage from an OD with the 2F. Here in the mountains you spend most of your life in 3rd climbing grades or 4th compression braking down them. :lol: 5th would be something I would use for a few miles between mountain ranges. So the V8 is kind of tied to OD for me.
 
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I have become a fan of EFI of many reasons, but a couple of large ones that most here never consider...

All weather starting.... when it is 20-30 below and you forget to plug the block heater in, EFI will usually kick over and start in one or two revolutions of the crank. Ask a carb to do THAT!

Water crossings... I have had to tear down and practically rebuild several carbs on the trails during the past few years do to water intrusion. Usually not from contaminated fuel caches... we are pretty good about avoiding that. But from water that finds it's way into the intake tract/snorkel. The bowl vent of most carbs is in or beside the carb throat. Any water that getds into the intake tract (more than you might expect, even on snorkeled rigs) will be pulled in and pass through the engine... normally not a problem. But small amounts find their way into the bowl vents as they pass by. one the water is in the bowl, it collects and winds up clogging things up and shutting down the show.


EFI on the other hand.... completely sealed under the hood, so water entry in this manner is eliminated. And if you do wind up with water contamination in your tank... the high pressure in an EFI system will blast the water through, not allowing it to clog up the way a carb does. If the contamination is bad, the rig will run like crap... but it will run. I have been amazed at how much water an efi system will put up with.


These to factors are enough all by themselves to make EFI the hands down winner in my book.

Mark...
I wish I felt more comfortable with the technology. Carb engines just seem less complex to me, no controller, no sensors.
 
I am doing it again. This is my second 40. Follow the link of my sig.
 

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