If I was to start all over again, I would... (3 Viewers)

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Believe it or not I am the one first suggested the minivan and she hated the idea. But once she tried one there is no going back. Good part of the reason is its lower/easier to get into for the grandma and great grandma. Don't want to break any bones with the SUV.

Those of you hate minivan should really try it, cruising comfortably at 80mph(even up hill) while still getting 27-30mpg is hard to beat. Then there are those fully electric giant sliding doors, then it drives and parks just like a car, then there is that HUGE cargo space to put my ARB fridge, stroller, diapers, clothe, beach umbrella, toys, blankets, beach chair, tissue boxes shoes and God know what else my wife left back there. For the hardtop there is nothing out there that can beat a minivan, not even a 200.


But there are mental block for some but it's ok, I'm man enough to bear the shame for my family. :)


That being said I just need a way to justify a 200 without selling the 80.........damn it, this is too hard. I have too many cars!!

I couldn't do it. I looked at Siennas and Odysseys. They are great vehicles but I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I bought a new 100 instead. Part of me wishes I still had it but I got rid of it because it just didn't "feel" like a Land Cruiser. It felt too minivanish...without the convenience of sliding doors.
 
both my dad and my stepdad have been minivan owners and even enthusiats since I was a kid, even doing months of expedition style overlanding in Baja in a Chrysler Town & Country (DO NOT TRY THIS). I get it from a practicality standpoint--the ability to lock bikes inside the vehicle is a big plus.

I personally would be looking at van (sprinter, E250 or express AWD) if I just wanted a camper/utility vehicle and didn't feel the need to bash around in the woods. But bashing around in the woods is a lot of fun...
 
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This might work. Quigleys van
 
[QUOTE="LS1FJ40, post: 9986328, member: 8079" bought a new 100 instead. Part of me wishes I still had it but I got rid of it because it just didn't "feel" like a Land Cruiser. It felt too minivanish...without the convenience of sliding doors.[/QUOTE]


Bingo! I didn't buy a 100 because I wanted a beater hauler and the minivan is simply awesome for the kido and the mall. Not sure how the suv people put their kids in with those tiny doors. It was complete pain to put my boy into the child seat in the 80.
 
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X2 on using the torque wrench more. Better and cheaper to use a torque wrench than to get too acquainted with helicoils [emoji32]
 
I like the concept of this thread...a sharing of Lessons Learned. So, here's my limited experience:
After buying a tired and already mod'd '95 LC and DD'ing it for several years, I actually did Start Over and could correct all the regrets I had with the first one.
1) Its much better having a spare vehicle to drive to work instead of trying to patch up a weekend Land Cruiser repair before Monday morning. I'm not a fast mechanic. Its also good to sometimes walk away and think of a better way before getting frustrated. Also, time limits prevented me from making more "while you are in there" repairs that we all find when opening up these old LC's. Time limits to get it back running before work caused me to buy parts from the local Advance Auto instead of ordering the desired Toyota OEM part.
2) Be patient and find the color and configuration you want (if that's important to you).
3) Buy one with the best interior condition possible (seats, trim, not hacked up by the PO). I enjoy being under the hood, not fighting brittle plastic trim pieces that crack when you look at it.
4) As mentioned before, baseline it with new fluids, hoses, belts, and other wear items of unknown history before you start with the toys. And, write it all down.
5) download FSM sooner
6) Decide what your Land Cruiser wants to be when it grows up. With my first one, I bounced back and forth between expo rig, hardcore offroader, family sport utility vehicle, daily driver, etc. Look at everyone else's rigs on Mud, decide what you want to use it mainly for, and have a vision of where your are going. Its more rewarding to have a plan and every repair and upgrade you make is one step closer to your vison.

John
 
well after having my LX450 all of 1 week and a half, the only regret was I should have waited and gotten one with factory lockers, now the advent of shelling out $$$ for lockers seems like a drag !

I am however glad I found this forum site and this particular thread , because it completely changed my mind of what I should do ... I was thinking about my old rig 89 yota pu, 5.5" lift, 5:29's, 22RE, Marlin 4.7 Tcase, quicklocks, 35" swamper Trxus muds, etc ... I spent thousands , for a very capable rig, used it 11-12 times on the 'con, duesey ershim, the hammers , and a few other spots... and basically chased problems after initially doing a lift for bigger tires and thought well on this more or less cruiser, I need to get a OME 2.5", put 33's on , regear to 4:88's , etc.... thats now changed ....

Decided before getting a LC ( Lx ) , that this was gonna be different , I'm not a kid anymore (54 ) and could care less about "crawlin" ! , not sayin' only the youngsters do that , but for me , I'm done with that sort of wheelin' ! I am more into just taking the easier softer way to the remote spots to camp / fish. and also this fun truck ( not my DD ) is to be used as a errand runner, too ... so keeping' it stock , except for the added at least rear locker , etc. is the way to go.

I Certainly had that old yota, but also had a 6" lifted 86 k20 straight piped diesel burban ... another rig I chased problems with once lifted ! I do miss 21mpg, and the 40 gal tank ... also miss covering prius's in black soot when they were near ... ha

so after those ... I began to think "who am I to think I'm smarter than the original designers" of this very capable (80) .... Just leave it alone, put the lockers in it doesn't have and just go enjoy it ... I am reluctant to not at least get a rear locker , since ... I know what open punkin's and elevated wheel spins are like....

So thanks to the Thread starter and to all who posted the posts that talked about keeping their rigs stock ! That sounds way better this time !

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Buy the best possible option, at the very top of your budget, at every point along the way. From your initial purchase, to every component and fix along the way, all the way to the aftermarket add-ons.

The adage always holds true. You get what you pay for; or, buy nice or buy twice. Whatever your flavor.

I've spent more money replacing cheap Chinese and second tier parts than I have on actual repairs. OEM is the way to go for parts, without fail. Without exception.

Starting again, I would have held out for a pristine high dollar, low mileage rig. Top of the line Slee lift kit and bumpers, price be damned. I've spent at least as much, if not more, to "correct" incomplete lower height lift kits. Could have had a proven, complete kit for the same bucks from the start.

Last, but not least, buy a FSM. Do everything yourself if you are able. It's the only way to know it's correct. "They" read the same FSM you will, but only you are OCD about your FZJ80.

Why would you be here otherwise???
 
I've had my 80 16 years and been pretty pleased with it, but here's what I would do different or again:

-Leave the gearing alone. 4.11/33 is perfect for what I use this truck for. I have 4.88s and 35s and it's ok but not necessary. You want a crawler, get a mini-truck.

-Get sliders early and save your rockers.

-Avoid factory lockers. ARBs are so much better that it's worth paying a bit extra for them. Rear especially.

-You need something else to drive. Either during projects or down time, you need another truck/car/beater. Normal.

-Do yourself a favor and do a 4x4 Labs rear bumper kit you weld yourself. It's a great bumper and cost effective. Plus, you learn something.

-Do a moderate lift. 33s fit with 2 1/2 inch lifts and that's good. You'll only need caster plates that way.

-Don't skimp in the winch. You'll want an M12000 in the end, so do it up front with a bumper that fits the M12000.

-Do a dual battery early, and use it to power your fridge. This is THE BEST camping mod you can do.

-Replace the head gasket before you need to. Who needs the mental stress?

-Replace the radiator every 120k miles whether it needs it or not.

-You don't need "off road lights" unless you do. Save your $$.

-You don't need a snorkel. Resist the urge. Get a snorkel if you live in Alaska. Otherwise, not needed.

-Keep your 80 out of the sun when you can.

-Don't buy any amount of rust. Just don't.

-Install a sub-tank early in your 80 relationship. Don't think, just do. Then go to Southern Utah.

-Never trade a mod for the truck for a trip in the truck. If it's one or the other, go on the trip.
 
If anyone makes it this far and still cares...

I've owned an 80 for 10 years /112,000 miles.
-I'd take better care of the interior. This is where you live. If something doesn't work, the seats look like a badger lives there, and it smells like a locker room you won't love it so much.
-Maintain fluids and baseline every other year.
-Keep a spreadsheet of the maintenance and repairs so I'd remember when to do it again. It's tough to remember exactly when you did your birfs or that last baseline.
-Armor up early. That front bumper could have saved my '95...maybe. Sliders would have allowed me into some areas I didn't go.
-Fix the AC.
-Fixed scratches before they went to rust.
-Keep it simple.
-Fix things as soon as I notice they are wrong instead of waiting for issues to pile up. It goes back to the love thing. You can't love it if you are always aware of what's not right.

I'm in round 2 and have a moderate lift, front ARB bumper, perfect (if a little heavy) roof rack, and the interior is just starting to go. 305's are a little meaty, but I didn't buy them. Prefer something a little skinnier.

I'd never have wasted my time and money on a minivan. Useless in the snow and they limit family vacation to pavement. Had one for 2 years and took a loss on it just to make it stop depreciating in my driveway.
 
Agreed on stock but its hard to tell what stock was with 20 years of saggy suspension.
 
Agreed on stock but its hard to tell what stock was with 20 years of saggy suspension.

mine sits level , doesn't bob up and down ...I assume its fine ? how else would I know , other than it being 20 yrs old ? is there a standard or measurement I could go by ?
 
I've learned a ton on Marjan, but if I did it all over again, I'd buy a flat fender Jeep.

I wouldn't restore it, or mod it; rather, I'd set it up to be as stock as practical.

The electrical/electronics on the Series 80 are just not worth the ass-pain. And I really don't need the highway capabilities of a Series 80, either. I live in freaking Germany, and drove it on the autobahn for the first time yesterday, just to say I did.

What I really want is a well-supported off-road capable vehicle where I can fix everything that's broken myself without being a f*cking witch-doctor. And frankly, Series 80s are an electrical/electronic nightmare waiting to happen.
 
Agreed im saying to replace old springs and shocks with oem spec
 
Way too many people obsess over "stance" or "lean".

Put good shocks and springs on it and forget about it.

saggy springs , are usually a good thing as far as articulation is concerned ! ;)
 
I've learned a ton on Marjan, but if I did it all over again, I'd buy a flat fender Jeep.

I wouldn't restore it, or mod it; rather, I'd set it up to be as stock as practical.

The electrical/electronics on the Series 80 are just not worth the ass-pain. And I really don't need the highway capabilities of a Series 80, either. I live in freaking Germany, and drove it on the autobahn for the first time yesterday, just to say I did.

What I really want is a well-supported off-road capable vehicle where I can fix everything that's broken myself without being a f*cking witch-doctor. And frankly, Series 80s are an electrical/electronic nightmare waiting to happen.

I've had one single electrical issue in 24 years. I posted a question on mud and figured it out once I stopped panicking. I am not an electrical genius by any stretch of the imagination.

Wasn't your "electrical issue" related to corrosion/water infiltration? I don't see that as being the fault of the 80...

And how the hell are you going to haul around a bevy of beauties in a GD Heep!!?!
 
I've owned a few cruisers but my 97 FZJ toy is a bit over the top (35's, supercharger, a bit loud exhaust, bumpers, sliders, snorkel, etc.) and I have to say, I love it this way. It could get by being a whole lot simpler but I work like a dog and dammit, this thing is a fun outlet without apologies. It really boils down to what suits you. I love peoples trucks that are built exactly for what suits them be it mild or crazy. That is what it is all about. Do your thing and you'll be king! Most of all, pay attention to opinions here and previous write ups here because it's the best source of info that you'll ever find.
 
I've had one single electrical issue in 24 years. I posted a question on mud and figured it out once I stopped panicking. I am not an electrical genius by any stretch of the imagination.

Wasn't your "electrical issue" related to corrosion/water infiltration? I don't see that as being the fault of the 80...

So??? And the next time, the time after that, and the time after the time after the time after that it will ALSO be corrosion/water infiltration related. And each time I "fix" something, I break off a fixture/bolt/ piece of s*** piece of 20 year old age and sun hardened plastic, so now I drive a s*** mobile.

Yesterday, it started malfunctioning in another new and exciting fashion. An itinerant shudder under accel, and a P0420 code, accompanied by reduced power. And the forum is packed full of people chunking down thousands for attempted fixes for this very thing that don't work.

Doesn't sound like fun to me.
 

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