bluecruiser
SILVER Star
I'd do whatever it takes to get that returned, hopefully recouping as much money as possible. Good luck.
Idiot or Moron? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter homer78749
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This is a good idea, especially if the vehicle is not safe (hole in the frame I think would qualify as safety issue if you got into an accident).
Coming from a life deep in the rust belt, your pictures are pretty familiar to me. My LC is similar in places. At times I have thought what the heck have I gotten into but then I just take the truck out for a drive and it reassures me I am making the right choice in keeping it and constantly trying to make it better. It's definitely a labor of love tho.
If everything else is right on the truck I am not sure I'd walk if you had to eat a substantial financial loss.
You'll definitely run into broken bolts. Example, Pic4 where the rear sway bar mount attaches to the frame. I have had both bolts on each side break off in the frame. Just have to drill out the bolt and tap new threads and I fully expect that to last another 10+ years. I'm sure I'll run across many more situations like that but it's part of the game. Pic5 where you have the most concern is that cross member but I think that is replaceable. However when you go to drop your plastic covers and front skid plate you'll probably face more broken bolts, again ask me how I know. but once they are fixed, and they are an easy fix on a lift, you won't ever have to mess with that again.
For the rear quarter panel that is rusted thru, so what? No one will ever see that. It is completely covered by bumper cover. Knock the loose rust out and cover with fluid film. And the comments about the tube in that pic being the rear AC drain is incorrect. The rear AC drain is in that area but it is a black tube coming directly out of the bottom of the rear evaporator.
With all that being said, all your pix are undercarriage related. How is the tail gate, visible rocker panels, windshield corners? If you have holes in those areas that can lead to some expensive body work.
If everything else is right on the truck I am not sure I'd walk if you had to eat a substantial financial loss.
You'll definitely run into broken bolts. Example, Pic4 where the rear sway bar mount attaches to the frame. I have had both bolts on each side break off in the frame. Just have to drill out the bolt and tap new threads and I fully expect that to last another 10+ years. I'm sure I'll run across many more situations like that but it's part of the game. Pic5 where you have the most concern is that cross member but I think that is replaceable. However when you go to drop your plastic covers and front skid plate you'll probably face more broken bolts, again ask me how I know. but once they are fixed, and they are an easy fix on a lift, you won't ever have to mess with that again.
For the rear quarter panel that is rusted thru, so what? No one will ever see that. It is completely covered by bumper cover. Knock the loose rust out and cover with fluid film. And the comments about the tube in that pic being the rear AC drain is incorrect. The rear AC drain is in that area but it is a black tube coming directly out of the bottom of the rear evaporator.
With all that being said, all your pix are undercarriage related. How is the tail gate, visible rocker panels, windshield corners? If you have holes in those areas that can lead to some expensive body work.
If it's any consolation, lots of guys buy used FJ60s with rust way worse than that and feel lucky they got a good truck. It's all relative. But on a 100 I'd want something a bit less orange.
And having lived the orange life myself for a long time, I'd want my next vehicle virtually orange free. I'm tire of rust.
But it's not true what many people say about rust. It's further development can definitely be controlled to the point that it's just a maintenance issue and not a dissolving issue.
And having lived the orange life myself for a long time, I'd want my next vehicle virtually orange free. I'm tire of rust.
But it's not true what many people say about rust. It's further development can definitely be controlled to the point that it's just a maintenance issue and not a dissolving issue.
2001LC
SILVER Star
IMHO your decision to sell is a good one. I agree with what has been said: "dumping" on some unsuspecting buyer is not cool. But there is a thing called fair disclosure.
Full disclosure means you're going to likely lose 2-3K on the resale. So at this point it's a financial decision.
Lose 2-3K on the resale (saying you sell it for 4000-5000), turn around and spend 7-9K on something you get to actually see in person first, and now you've lost 5-7K. Not to mention any gremlins (they always do) that might pop up after the next purchase.
Tough pickle you're in right now. I'm digging into mine as we speak and my rear end looks nasty with rust. The rest of the truck isn't bad at all, but cleaning up and repairing the rear is going to be a pain for sure. Eastwood's internal frame rust encapsulator and regular chassis rust encapsulator is what what I'm going to be using. As for the rocker panels and rear quarter panels, I have a body guy that's going to tackle that ($500 or so).
Tough call on your part but do what feels right to you
Lose 2-3K on the resale (saying you sell it for 4000-5000), turn around and spend 7-9K on something you get to actually see in person first, and now you've lost 5-7K. Not to mention any gremlins (they always do) that might pop up after the next purchase.
Tough pickle you're in right now. I'm digging into mine as we speak and my rear end looks nasty with rust. The rest of the truck isn't bad at all, but cleaning up and repairing the rear is going to be a pain for sure. Eastwood's internal frame rust encapsulator and regular chassis rust encapsulator is what what I'm going to be using. As for the rocker panels and rear quarter panels, I have a body guy that's going to tackle that ($500 or so).
Tough call on your part but do what feels right to you
Corrosion can never be stopped. Corrosion is a metal attempting to return to its original state. Thus it can't be prevented. It can however be slowed by proper treating. The absolute best stuff you could use in a situation like this is a chemical called ACF-50. I have used it for decades in aviation. It's made by the same company that makes corrosion block. But ACF-50 have properties that far exceed corrosion block. It will hold off corrosion from growing. But it does require routine maintaince. You will need to reapply at certain intervals depending on the area and exposure to the elements. Say under the hood every 8 months or so. Undercarriage every couple months to be safe. It's also completely safe for electronics. I've seen a tv on in a fish tank filled with it. It really is an amazing product. Best applied with a fogger type tool to get in areas you can't even see such as a boxed frame. Food for thought
- Thread starter
- #49
I've got an offer from Carmax for $5K and I feel zero guilt because a) I disclosed and b) they are usually re-selling to dealers who know exactly what they are getting themselves into. I'm going to try one last hail mary with ebay and tel the dealer i pay to ship back you give me my money back and keep the deposit and we call it a day. When that doesn't work I'll sell.
The $ sucks but it's not a big deal. I think I'm more pissed at myself for being a dupe and the fact that I had a line on a pristine one for $15K and walked away over $800. Karma is a mfer.
The $ sucks but it's not a big deal. I think I'm more pissed at myself for being a dupe and the fact that I had a line on a pristine one for $15K and walked away over $800. Karma is a mfer.
Original state? What does that mean? Is this some sort of holistic concept?
If you are talking about rust as in iron oxide, sure it can be prevented. Just make sure there is no Oxygen available for the iron to be oxidized with.
If the frame has a hole, and Carmax is offering $5K, I would let it go quickly. Sorry for the trouble, but maybe it is time to move on and start fresh.
Just out of curiosity did you win the auction, use buy it now or go out of e-bay and pay the seller? Where did you get the truck shipped from? I do not believe that the seller did not inspect the car as they are putting themselves at risk if someone gets hurt for example if the brakes don't work. Make sure you give them a negative review
2001LC
SILVER Star
Ebay has a buyer protection program. One time I and a buyer got in dispute. My description was spot on, buyer just didn't read or understand product. Ebay step-in found my description spot-on and no fault on my part, and refund buyer as well which surprised me, everyone was happy. If seller will not workout a full or agreeable refund get ebay involved for final word. Seller may offer ~1/2 your money back (you keep) or return for full. If a lack of fair disclosure is evolved, then they should pay all shipping if you do a return.
IMHO; There is no way they didn't no about rust if they're a dealer.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
Pic number 1, what piece of metal is that separating?
rust on parts is not a big deal, they can be replaced.
Frame rust is a big deal, but if it is only that one section, it can be cut out and replaced or rebuild.
Look at some of the older cars that are complete rust buckets and the become show cars, all it takes is time & money
You can try the Ebay buyer protection program, it might be worth the time.
Should you do this again, try and find someone to go and look at it, it might save you this headache.
Should you decide to keep it and get the frame repaired and other rust parts, look into POR-15 paint.
many, many years ago I restored a Triumph TR6 with rust holes on the floor board, with a little bit of cleaning and using the POR-15 products, I was able to restore the floor and it was very solid.
rust on parts is not a big deal, they can be replaced.
Frame rust is a big deal, but if it is only that one section, it can be cut out and replaced or rebuild.
Look at some of the older cars that are complete rust buckets and the become show cars, all it takes is time & money
You can try the Ebay buyer protection program, it might be worth the time.
Should you do this again, try and find someone to go and look at it, it might save you this headache.
Should you decide to keep it and get the frame repaired and other rust parts, look into POR-15 paint.
many, many years ago I restored a Triumph TR6 with rust holes on the floor board, with a little bit of cleaning and using the POR-15 products, I was able to restore the floor and it was very solid.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
The paint no, but their putty and a little screen mesh does wonders. I would not use it to repair major frame rust, but to cover small holes, yes. The paint will stop new rust from starting.
I have had POR15 paint hold up better than powder coating.
I have had POR15 paint hold up better than powder coating.
