Ideas for Moving Front Axle Around Shop Easily (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

Doing some significant work on the cruiser (at least for me). OME lift, Knuckle rebuild. I wanted to completely remove the front axle out from under the truck to get better access to it to be able to degrease and clean it up some. Maybe some paint. Got everything torn down and axle free ready to move on jackstands. I thought I would just use my jack to move it where I can work on it but its proving a bit more difficult than anticipated. Thing is really heavy and I don't seem to have enough space to quite get the angle I need to get it turned enough to get it out with the Jack.

What would be really helpful are wheeled jackstands to set the axle on so I could move it easily out from under the truck. Seems that's a lawsuit waiting to happen and no one is making anything like that I could find. So anyone have a slick way to move an axle from under the truck? I saw this:

AutoTwirler AT-AXLE-DOLLY AutoTwirler Axle Dollies | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - AutoTwirler Axle Dollies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Axle Assembly Adapters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

But I am not sure this is low enough to get under the truck where I have it positioned and would rather not spend that sort of scratch on something I may use once. Maybe just some plywood with casters on it and squares to set the stands in. Hoping someone has an easy way to do this I am not considering. Stupid thread I know but hoping someone has a grand idea on how this is done. Thanks. as always.

 

[OSS]

in my younger years I replaced my rear axle housing with a full floater just using a normal hydraulic floor jack you can get anywhere. But I was a lot stronger when I was in my twenties. I don't remember it being an ordeal. In fact I don't even remember taking it out of my pickup truck by myself. But being 20 something is like living in a different universe.

If I were to attempt it now, I'd just get two furniture moving dollies from Harbor Freight along with some wood blocks or whatever and lower it down to them and wheel it out

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

There was a rolling dolly at Walmart I noticed, it said it could hold 2k lbs. It wasn’t as long, (maybe 24x36”) as the axle but I could see it being modified easily enough. I think it was about $26.

 

[brownbear]

I don't think removing is helpful at all. Better than removing is raising the vehicle higher to make it comfortable to work around.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Friend of mine in Maine.... @remy1974.

 

[remy1974]

I had to set it on the creeper and roll it 100’ from where I had worked on it in shop

 

[Gretsch]

If I were to attempt it now, I'd just get two furniture moving dollies from Harbor Freight along with some wood blocks or whatever and lower it down to them and wheel it out

There was a rolling dolly at Walmart I noticed, it said it could hold 2k lbs. It wasn’t as long, (maybe 24x36”) as the axle but I could see it being modified easily enough. I think it was about $26.

Yeah I was thinking about moving dollies, but made things more difficult as usual.....trying to come up with some silly way to put jack stands on them and wheel it that way. Was over thinking it. Your way as usual is much more sensible @OSS and @NeverGiveUpYota. Had in my head the axle needed to end up higher to make it easier to work on so got blocked on getting it on jack stands. But the moving dollies would prolly get this done easily and I can just lift it back onto stands once moved. My real issue here is my limited space. If I were outside somewhere with plenty of room around me it would be much easier. I may just try and clean it up under the truck. I wanted to replace the third member seal which would also be easier out of the truck IMHO. Its not leaking currently but though with the knuckle work it would be a good opportunity to replace it. Just the weight of that thing may make me chicken out on that. Taking rest of night to ponder. Thanks as always for the responses.

 

[Gretsch]

Friend of mine in Maine.... @remy1974.

View attachment 2012913

If I only had a crane.....

 

[FJ60Seth]

Assuming you want to remove it before disassembly, couldn’t you put the wheels back on and roll it around? Support the diff with a movers dolly. An engine hoist works perfect, but sounds like you don’t have room.

If it’s already torn down for a rebuild, pull the diff out. The bare housing is pretty light.

 

[Gretsch]

Yeah the more I think about this, the more I realize this is more to do with the room I have to maneuver and not so much with how to move the diff around. Your idea about getting the wheels back on is sound but I don't have the space to move the axle wide ways like that. This is really my issue:

I just don't have the space on either side to swing the axle around very easily, much less work on it. Small garage filled with clutter, but beats the hell out of working in the Texas sun. I may just bag the axle removal altogether until I can get a proper workspace to move large pieces like this. I wanted to pull the diff off the housing and replace the seal there while I had the axles out of the case. But would be difficult to get it off in this cramped space. Its not leaking now but just trying to be somewhat proactive. Perhaps I should just not searching for trouble. I can simply leave the axle where it is and get the lift on to makes things easier. Then get the knuckle rebuild done with axle on the springs. Trying to get this rig ready for SAS in August so running out of days quick. Still mulling this over. Thanks all for the replies.

 

[NookShneer]

Yeah the more I think about this, the more I realize this is more to do with the room I have to maneuver and not so much with how to move the diff around. Your idea about getting the wheels back on is sound but I don't have the space to move the axle wide ways like that. This is really my issue:



I just don't have the space on either side to swing the axle around very easily, much less work on it. Small garage filled with clutter, but beats the hell out of working in the Texas sun. I may just bag the axle removal altogether until I can get a proper workspace to move large pieces like this. I wanted to pull the diff off the housing and replace the seal there while I had the axles out of the case. But would be difficult to get it off in this cramped space. Its not leaking now but just trying to be somewhat proactive. Perhaps I should just not searching for trouble. I can simply leave the axle where it is and get the lift on to makes things easier. Then get the knuckle rebuild done with axle on the springs. Trying to get this rig ready for SAS in August so running out of days quick. Still mulling this over. Thanks all for the replies.

@red66toy

Wheel dollies, or furniture movers from HF.

Easier if leaf springs are unattached on one side and and axle is slid out onto the dollies.

Furniture mover and a old tire work well for just moving around, diff gets centered in the tire.

Wheel dollies with a 4x12 on top with a jack stand was what I used when prepping a rear 80 axle for my 60. If your worried about it popping off you can use a tie-down to secure the axle to the wheel dolly.

If your not seeing significant leaks from the front seals I’d spend the time working on other systems to prep for a long drive and SAS.

 

[brownbear]

I just would not pull the whole axle assembly to just do a knuckle rebuild. way to much effort.

The biggest hurdle in a small garage like that is when pulling the birfs, shafts and not hitting the walls. I had to cut a hole in my wall to get the long side out.

 

[Gretsch]

@red66toy

Wheel dollies, or furniture movers from HF.

Easier if leaf springs are unattached on one side and and axle is slid out onto the dollies.

Furniture mover and a old tire work well for just moving around, diff gets centered in the tire.

Wheel dollies with a 4x12 on top with a jack stand was what I used when prepping a rear 80 axle for my 60. If your worried about it popping off you can use a tie-down to secure the axle to the wheel dolly.

If your not seeing significant leaks from the front seals I’d spend the time working on other systems to prep for a long drive and SAS.

Well crap. Seeing that video tells me it can be done fairly easily, even in my little garage. The knuckles on mine need addressing for sure. The diff seal is OK and was just going to be done just because I would have the axles out for the knuckle rebuild. The knuckles can be done with axle housing in place but thought it might be easier to get access to all sides of the axle for cleaning/painting if I had it out from under the truck. The knuckle rebuild and even the diff seal can still be done where the truck sits without removing the axle housing from under the truck (can move things around to gain clearance for pulling the axles). Again just thought it might be easier to get at everything outside of the truck, but its not a requirement. Moving the axle to me was one of the easier parts of the project...….until I actually tried moving it. That's one heavy SOB. The real issue is I really don't have a good place to move it to. The more I think through this having it under the truck is really the best place for it in my particular situation. If I didn't need to keep spending money on the Cruiser, maybe I would have enough money for a bigger house. Thanks all for the replies.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I've had mine in and out a bunch, including an 80 last weekend in a garage not much bigger than yours. It is much easier to cleaning/painting/mods/repairs with the axle out.

2 floor jacks to roll it out and then a cherry picker to move it around. Harbor Freight dollies are also helpful. THey are rated at 1000 pounds and a complete front axle is less than 400.

The key is to have very large (12 ton) jack stands behind the front spring hanger to hold the remains of the truck in place while the axle is elsewhere. We also blocked up the truck with timbers, in case the stands failed as a back up.

This pic has all the ingredients! HF dollies, floor jacks, cherry picker, and multiple jack stands including the 12 ton holding up the front of the 80 and @TrickyT on the grinder (this was his axle)

 

[Seth S]

 

[Gretsch]

It is much easier to cleaning/painting/mods/repairs with the axle out.

Agreed. I was able to get under there and clean mine up pretty good. Not as nice as I wanted but for now it will work fine:

 

[Gretsch]

Additional progress shots....

I'm slow I know. I called it quits early today. Texas heat was getting me after three straight days of this. Need a break. Rears are soaking so should be set to go for when I pick up in the next few days.

 

[Seth S]

What is the paint and method for the axles? Sandblast to clean and rustoleum prime/paint layers or epoxy paints?

 

[brownbear]

My thoughts are clean with a wire brush, of course full de grease, and use a stiff brush. Then some primer like red oxide. And then top coat with rustoleum. Then after it cures use a light coat of fluid film or krown oil on it. Let it get greasy again.

 

[Gretsch]

Photo above is just epoxy paint. Cleaned and degreased. Hit it with brake cleaner dried it off and hit it straight away with epoxy paint. Looks better than it did. Maybe some day when I am rich I'll have the axle totally rebuilt and sandblasted/repainted but this works for now.