Ideal Front Brake Rebuild

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Sep 3, 2004
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My 91 needs new shoes, I figured while I was under there I would see if the is anyway to increase the stopping power. I have ceramic pads which have helped. I heard mixed reviews about the drilled rotors. What would you guy's do for a good brake job other than the normal switcheroo of pads? Does someone make an oversized rotor and caliper combo or is there a cool kit somewhere let me know.

P.S. I'd like to keep it under $500 if possible, please don't laugh I know it's not much but I'm cheep!
 
Dino,

A few days ago I posted a link to a cool kit that should dramatically improve your braking. It's 10x your budget but it SURE meets the cool part of your criteria.

Many guys do not like the drilled rotors if you do a lot off-road. Mud, rocks, and water crossings create problems with drilled rotors.

Maybe you can improve it with new OEM rotors and a premium metallic pad like the Axxis MM? Plus SS brake lines, a good fluid flush, and Syn brake fluid.

-B-
 
B, how tough is it to rebuild the front calipers? I could do a search but just curious if CDan puts together a kit and its a :banana: job or a :banana: :banana: :banana: job.
 
We've posted on the front caliper rebuild a couple of times. IMHO, the rebuild is a 1 banana job after the caliper is removed. I use CO2 but any compressed air source will do. You'll need air to remove the pistons from the caliper. Cleaning it up and installing the new seals and boots is simple and quick. Toyota has a front caliper kit that does both sides and includes the brake grease. The kit is cheap and there are good instructions in the FSM.

I wouldn't rebuild the caliper thinking that will improve the brake performance. It will resolve sticky caliper issues and uneven pad wear issues. It is unlikely to improve pedal feel or braking distance.

-B-
 
Thanks B, you answered my question. I'll do a search to get the specifics.

I seem to have sporatic fade during braking. Could have something to do with my 0 degree caster, but noticed the left padds seem to wear slightly faster than the right. Might be a sticky calliper. I have jacked the truck up, pressed the brake, let it off, and then spin the wheel to see if it was sticking. Didn't seem so, but perhaps it's hit or miss.
 
My RF was wearing uneven and wearing quicker than the LF. I did a caliper rebuild for that reason.

-B-
 
Brake Pad

i did a bit of research on pads, ceramic is what most race cars use, they grip better and put 1/10 of the brake dust metalic and bi metal pads. I was hoping someone would say " Hey the front rotors from a plymouth prowler will bolt on with a little work" and then you can stop on a dime" or something of the same. Oh.... The ceramic pads decreased my braking distance by about 20%
 
Dino said:
" Hey the front rotors from a plymouth prowler will bolt on with a little work" and then you can stop on a dime" or something of the same. Oh.... The ceramic pads decreased my braking distance by about 20%


Just tell Barney and Fred to stick their feet down dude. Seriously man, unless you're smoking wicked crack you'll need to remember that some of us are driving 7,000 lb trucks.

You already have a great braking device.... it's the :princess: 3fe that won't let you go above 20 mph. :flipoff2:
 
3fe

Man, htere is no love here for my triad and true buddy, I just wanna know how many of you guys with the BIG V-8's have 200 + miles on your trucks with NO major MEchasnical Problems like my lill ol' 3FE
 

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