idea for replacement Elictric locker ECU, harness & switch, (2 Viewers)

[RavenTai]

A post a few months ago got me thinking on how to replace the locker ECU or for those who are retrofitting eclectic lockers and don’t want to spring for any more EOM parts, there is a kit you can get online for such but I have worked with this kit and it stinks.

I came up with this, shown below will control one locker, you would need another mirror image of into control a second Toyota electric locker, it works in theory, and should work in reality but I have not tried it and have no intensions of doing so. You loose some of the subtleties of the Toyota ECU like engagement only at certain speeds, front rear lockers only after CDL** , rear first etc, it is also not compatible with the factory rotary knob.

the motor and limit switch are part of the actuator, you will need a SPDT control switch, 2 relays with NO and NC connections, a fuse and interconnecting wire, the light is optional, and basically replaces the blinking stage of the factory ECU, you would also wire the cluster lights to the indicator switch on the actuator (not pictured)

Your extra light would come on when the switch is put to the lock position, the motor will load the wait springs to the locked position and then shut off, when the dog teeth of the locker lien up the springs will engage the locker and the cluster lights will light, unlock is the reverse of lock.

I have not figured out polarity of the limit switch and motor someone who is doing a retro fit will have to do that, you will probalby need a locker out of the vehicle to do so, but other than that the design should be ready.

**PS you could possibly get this function by grounding the limit switch through the CDL indicator switch, unfortunaly this would inhibit both lock and unlock so you would want to make sure you unlock the axle before you unlock the center.

schematic shown in the unlocked position

 

[IBCRUSN]

Looks as though you have a winner there. Your WD simplifies the whole system. I have considered removing the OEM stuff for some of the reasons you mentioned. But alas I an either too busy or too lazy to get it done.

My one question for your setup and Toyota's is who cares that there is a light, flashing or otherwise for an unlocked condition? In transit for this type of component seems like too much information. Light on system working, light off system deactivated. The important information is that the actuator is engaged 100%. Anyone who has driven anything with open axles will be able to confirm the engagement of a locker. Why do I even ponder stuff like this, I wish I knew. Good work, will file this for future reference.

 

[alia176]

Bear in mind, if you want to use the light in the Inst Cluster then you'll need to supply it with GND, no +12vdc.

I wonder if George can Solid State this along with his fuel XFER ECU and sell it?

 

[Boston Mangler]

Anyone who has driven anything with open axles will be able to confirm the engagement of a locker. .

Copy That!

 

[RavenTai]

Alia, this is just 2 relays, 1 switch, 1 fuse and 1 light , really nothing there to package up in a box and sell.

IBCRUSN, the light is certainly optional, its main purpose is to confirm that something is happening even if the locker has not yet fully locked, if you are sitting still or going in a straight line on firm ground the lockers may not engage for a wile,

now that I think of it something that might be more useful is to wire this second light in parallel with the motor, it would be a true transit light, it would be lit only will the motor is turning would give a better indication of system heath and operation, the cluster lights would still work the same, telling if locked or unlocked. If you wanted to use LEDs you would need a rectifier (4 diodes) with gives an opportunity to get fancy, you could have one color for lock (red) and another for motor unlock (green) and of course a resistor to drop the voltage for the LEDs.

If you already have a locker ECU I don’t think it is worth your time to replace it, but some have talked about doing so anyway.

this is manily for retrofits, my first experience with 80 series lockers was on a buddys buggy where only the 3rds were Land Cruiser, the rest was Tacoma and scout. woudl have been nice to have had this then.

 

[Waggoner5]

Thats a great diagram and I may toss out the stock stuff for something like this, greatly simplifying the system. I was thinking of using a 20A polarity reversing momentary on/off/on switch with a LED on the limit switch telling me its locked. This would eliminate relays all together. Don't get me wrong I am a huge fan of Bosche relays and use them on everything, but a set of OEM power door lock switches can handle lots of amps. This should work correctly also shouldn't it?

 

[RavenTai]

Thats a great diagram and I may toss out the stock stuff for something like this, greatly simplifying the system. I was thinking of using a 20A polarity reversing momentary on/off/on switch with a LED on the limit switch telling me its locked. This would eliminate relays all together. Don't get me wrong I am a huge fan of Bosche relays and use them on everything, but a set of OEM power door lock switches can handle lots of amps. This should work correctly also shouldn't it?

the actuator does not have any stops on the motor side of the springs, without immediate disengagement you would over drive the springs and strech them. possibly even break them. my buddy found out wile testing his 80 series actuators, I dont think your reaction time will be fast enough to get the sweet spot.

leave the limit switch in control.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Better Yet, Leave It Stock and Dont F With What Works!

 

[Waggoner5]

Could you not use the limit switch to stop the motor before damage? I have not had a chance to research the locker operation.

My setup would be pretty impossible to leave stock.

 

[alia176]

Could you not use the limit switch to stop the motor before damage? I have not had a chance to research the locker operation.

My setup would be pretty impossible to leave stock.

Gary,

You could simply wire the LS in series with the output going to the motor. This way, when the motor is driven far enough, the LS will break the circuit, thereby cutting off the output to the motor. Do the same thing for the motor in reverse direction. Even if you hold down the switch for a long time, nothing will happen. Problem solved.

 

[RavenTai]

Gary,

You could simply wire the LS in series with the output going to the motor. This way, when the motor is driven far enough, the LS will break the circuit, thereby cutting off the output to the motor. Do the same thing for the motor in reverse direction. Even if you hold down the switch for a long time, nothing will happen. Problem solved.

This is basically what the current on line "kit" does, but the limit switch was never intended to carry the motors current from the factory. Weather it will be up to the task long term I do not know. The limit switch is just a set of 3 thin leaves that ride on a sheet metal programming plate like needles on a LP. No real heavy duty contact.

The kit also includes a heavy power resistor that is put in line with the motor, I assume its purpose to drop the voltage to the motor and make its current levels more palatable for the limit switch, problem is the motor does not reliably turn at this lower voltage, the stalled motor gets very hot and the resistor even hotter (hot enough to melt through the Plexiglas it was mounted to) deleting the resistor got the motor to work reliably but brings back the question of the limit switch current capacity.

My experience with that kit and some recent posts got me to come up with the above, the current of the motor is handled by the relays, and is still quite simple, count the components.

Better Yet, Leave It Stock and Dont F With What Works!

I would tend to agree that if you have a working OEM ECU no real reason to replace it (mine is staying) , but many Toy E-lockers wind up in other applications and this is also an option for retrofits. Wanted a better option out there than the current POS Kit.

It is always good to have options.