Icon shocks

[bluecruiser]

The clearance may be close. When I had the Radf••ls, it seemed okay in mall wheeling situations but when you flex at lock, the clearance goes away and you may rub on hoses and /or resis. Just something to watch for when you get out flexing the truck.

 

[smileyboy]

Haven't completely read through this whole thread. But now that my front bumper is in my ride is tougher than I'd like.
I want to keep the OME torsion bars and 860 rear springs. What Icon shocks would you recommend? Would Stage 1's work?

 

[Slickspawn]

Some updated info on icon shocks...

The front shock spacer... The short side goes to the front.

Icon also updated the bracket for the reservoir. It is black and wraps around the front upper control arm mount. Icon sent me instructions via email but did not include them with the shocks. I can try to post the PDFs here tomorrow from my laptop.

Picture:

 

[atomsk]

@Slickspawn - So are you saying that they recommend new brackets but aren't including them? I picked up my Icons a few weeks ago and will be installing them soon. Wondering if I need to go pick up these new brackets and if I'm going to have to pay for them..

 

[Slickspawn]

Sorry, my kit had the black brackets. I will assume it is a new part vs. the previous silver colored ones I saw in this thread. Black ones are curved and allow more tire clearance vs the silver ones which are straight.

The instructions were not included, but the new brackets were. New instructions are attached as reference only. Icon may change these as they update their product.

 

[atomsk]

Very interesting. I haven't torn into my boxes yet, so maybe I have those new mounts.

 

[Slickspawn]

It is worth checking. Made things seem much more roomy in the front for those concerned with rub a dub dub.

So... In the rear did anyone do anything to brake lines or parking brake out diff breather? When I am at full droop those are all pretty taught. I relocated the diff breather and relieved some tension of the parking brake sheath.

I could see full droop extension causing some unwanted stretching there like g-out followed by full extension droop.

 

[atomsk]

I have extended braided lines going in for the brakes. I wasn't thinking about anything else being a problem, but would be interested to see if there is concern anywhere else.

 

[Slickspawn]

Trail report on my Icon 2.5 remote reservoir setup below.

- I have SPC uppers
- Torsion bars are cranked and I am at ~21.5" hub to fender
- Front reservoir bracket is installed in the recommended location - I was provided the black bracket that curves around the front upper control arm mount. The reservoir is pushed into some soft inner fender rubber and hose clamped to the bracket
- I am running 1.25" spacers from Slee Front and Rear
- Rear suspension is stock height
- 285/75r16 Falken Wild Peak AT 2, so my tires are not as large as some of you
- Steering stops have not been touched

The past two days my wife and I traveled up Goler Wash and Coyote Canyon into Butte Valley. Those who have been through Mengel Pass know it's not the most difficult, but it is ever changing with boulders over sand, over a waterfall and has dished out its fair share of damage to folks who underestimate it. OK, enough about Mengel.

Long trip story short, I didn't rub once, so the new icon reservoir location with the black bracket that wraps around is good to go.

And...my running boards are getting more and more beat is warming up to the idea of some slider steps.

 

[Slickspawn]

Installation notes, for future searchers.

1. Rears suck to install. If I were smart and had more $ to spend I'd buy the nitrogen filling setup, empty the nitrogen, collapse the shock, then install and refill the nitrogen. I didn't do that, and drooping the axle to install showed the need to relocate the breather and work some extension into the parking brake cable (I may have mentioned this previously). The top nut, as many have said, requires a 22mm flex head ratcheting wrench. I have a gear wrench brand, since Snap On doesn't sell one. I used a strap wrench to hold the shock body while loosening the top nut.

2. Fronts went in the same day as the SPC arms. Used the recommended reservoir location and everything went in easily. I used location "D" as that allows for the most droop. You'll see what I mean with the location of the ball joint and how it mounts to the SPC arm. At stock height my alignment specs were 0 camber, 0 toe and 3.4 degrees caster. So at stock height expect the extra caster to firm up the steering...but the front ride and handling improvement were a huge improvement over stock.

Overall the Icon shocks were a huge improvement on our 100, and the 50 miles of washboard roads we ran over the past few days were much much easier to deal with.

 

[Bloomer]

@Slickspawn.....let's see some pics!

 

[smileyboy]

I've had the Stage 1 kit with the longer shocks in the front. I've noticed that on warmer days the front end rides very smooth and on colder days, quite a bit more harsh. I'm wondering if my shocks need re-valved. Anyone else had this issue? I am running a BIOR bumper on the front.

 

[spressomon]

^ look into synthetic shock oil

 

[smileyboy]

@spressomon.... I didn't know that was a thing. Can you tell me more about it or do you have a link? Thanks b

 

[spressomon]

I'd contact Icon or Poly Performance (Andrew) to inquire what they recommend (for brand & viscosity) and whether they think it would help in < freezing temps compared to dino shock oil. And its certainly possible your Icons came with synthetic shock oil. In that case maybe the lighter viscosity would be of benefit.

Lucas &, Redline, among others, make synthetic shock oil. I believe, but not 100% positive, Fox Red shock oil is synthetic. This is what I am currently running in my Fox and Radflo shocks, but don't have below freezing conditions to advise you.

 

[smileyboy]

@spressomon. Thanks. I just called both places. They said they can revalve them! Thx for the info.
Edit: I needed to fix my spelling. Some of those sentences made no sense.

 

[Kofoed]

I tried fitting my 2.5, reservoir shocks on the front this morning. Aside from no included directions, does anybody remember if the stem was this long or the bushings were this thick? I had to really torque the nut just to get it to get near the top of the stem, no room for the lock nut, and the bushings were bulging.....This is not right. My guess is they added the wrong package for the bushings, and nuts....

I'll call Icon tomorrow, but my dang phone died..........

 

[Bloomer]

@Kofoed...keep us posted on the outcome.

 

[Slickspawn]

I posted the instructions. On this very page.

Tighten the top nut until enough threads show to get the lock nut on. It requires some effort.

 

[Slickspawn]

Copy/paste from the instructions I posted above:

8. Make sure the upper stem is centered in its hole and jack up on the lower A-arm slightly until the shock just starts to compress, this will help preload the upper stem bushing. Install the remaining bushing and washer(cupped down) on the stem followed by the large stem nut. Tignten the nut until 4-5 threads are showing through the nut. Install the jam nut and tighten to 35 lb/ft.