Icon shocks

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FYI: I ran extended shocks upfront and didn't realize the upper ball joint was the limiting factor. A few months go by and the ball joint was trashed. It had 1/4" of play and created some interesting driving characteristics. I would not allow the ball joint to stop down travel. I assume the LBJ will stretch the socket when extended past the service angle.



Here is my UCA play after I removed them.




What extended shocks did you run? Are these the profenders? Did you use limit straps up front to stop it?


Sent from my iPhone
 
What extended shocks did you run? Are these the profenders? Did you use limit straps up front to stop it? Sent from my iPhone

I run Total Chaos UCA's now, which allow for the shock to be the limiter.I am running ProFenders with no limiting straps.
 
I am curious how my spc's plus profenders will work. I don't know of anyone with that setup yet.


Sent from my iPhone
 
My '03 LC OEM 18x8 LC wheels are identical in backspacing to my '07 Tundra OEM 18x8 wheels (both @ 746mm).

Same for mine. OEM 18" wheels from my '03 and OEM 18" steelies from an '07 Tundra…which are currently on the truck with 275/70-18 BFGs. Must be something else at play here.

Also, it seems like I could move the reservoirs forward a bit more (and out of the way), but I'm limited by the length of the hose. Is there any magic to the length of the hose between the shock body and the reservoir?
 
^ sounds like you need longer hoses. I would think Icon would swap them for you. Worst case any hydraulic shop could fab longer hoses too.
 
Please tell me you're not driving around with your upper control arm mounts acting as your droop stops. I too measured 24.5" of droop when my SPC arms hit the control arm mounts. For me, droop was reduced to 23.75" after bolting in my Fox shocks (which limit the droop travel).

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I'm not. It is close, maybe too close, but the UCA doesn't touch the mount. Not the most precise measurement tool, but I had the folded instructions from my Helton shower nearby and they could easily slide between the UCA and the mount with the wheel lifted off the ground.

gap1.jpg



Using the same measurement tool, I found a pretty tight gap between the caster adjustment plate (not sure what it is officially called…the thing you put in position D per SPC's instructions) and the shock. Much tighter clearance here, but the folded instructions could still slide relatively easily through the gap.

gap2.jpg


So, it appears the shock is limiting droop. Loosening/removing the top shock nut causes the wheel to drop a bit more…not much, but maybe another quarter inch.
 
^ good info. Assuming the spacer puck Icon is using for the droop limiter is hard (like UHMWP, aluminum, etc. and not soft rubber) then your 1/4" of ball joint over-travel should be adequate to protect the ball joint at droop out.
 
^ sounds like you need longer hoses. I would think Icon would swap them for you. Worst case any hydraulic shop could fab longer hoses too.

I mentioned the longer hose option to them. Hopefully that becomes a regular option for those of us needing the space due to bigger/wider tires.
 
How's the valving of the icons? They are stiff like Radflos? Can you compress the shocks with your hands?
 
I am curious how my spc's plus profenders will work. I don't know of anyone with that setup yet.

Easy, ask Nick (2000UZJ) to fully extend his front suspension (front tires off the ground) and measure from the center of the hub dust cap to the bottom of the fender lip. If it’s less than 24.5”, the Profenders will work, and limit suspension droop (as they should). If it’s more than 24.5”, the SPC upper control arms will hit the upper control arm frame mounts. Then it’s up to you to clearance the frame mounts (using your grinder of choice) and cycle all suspension components checking for clearance.
 
How's the valving of the icons? They are stiff like Radflos? Can you compress the shocks with your hands?


Excellent question about the valving. I’m curious too. And I think he got the shocks with the optional compression adjusting knob which allows you to choose 1 of 10 different compression settings.

But just to be clear, compressing a nitrogen-charged shock with your hands really isn’t a function of shock valvling. That just means you can use your hands, and/or body weight, to compress the shock and move the volume of oil displaced by the shock shaft into the space that was previously occupied by compressed nitrogen gas.
 
I'm not. It is close, maybe too close, but the UCA doesn't touch the mount. Not the most precise measurement tool, but I had the folded instructions from my Helton shower nearby and they could easily slide between the UCA and the mount with the wheel lifted off the ground.

Using the same measurement tool, I found a pretty tight gap between the caster adjustment plate (not sure what it is officially called…the thing you put in position D per SPC's instructions) and the shock. Much tighter clearance here, but the folded instructions could still slide relatively easily through the gap.

So, it appears the shock is limiting droop. Loosening/removing the top shock nut causes the wheel to drop a bit more…not much, but maybe another quarter inch.


Thanks for clarifying, and excellent feedback! I actually have a very similar measurement tool, except mine is made by Delta. :D
 
Excellent question about the valving. I’m curious too. And I think he got the shocks with the optional compression adjusting knob which allows you to choose 1 of 10 different compression settings. But just to be clear, compressing a nitrogen-charged shock with your hands really isn’t a function of shock valvling. That just means you can use your hands, and/or body weight, to compress the shock and move the volume of oil displaced by the shock shaft into the space that was previously occupied by compressed nitrogen gas.

I don't have experience with the Radflos (or really anything besides the OMEs and OEM on this truck) so can't comment on them. I didn't spend a ton of time trying to, but could not compress the Icons by hand. Not at all. I could compress the OME shocks with a bit of effort.

Also, I didn't get the adjustable Icons. I'm way too lazy to make trail side adjustments on stuff like this...and didn't want to cough up the extra money.

SDC, you're welcome to test drive my truck if you'd like. Shoot me a PM.
 
Not going to compress a shock with 200psi by hand. This is why, for these types of shocks, guys are going to want a nitrogen tank system in their garage...for easier installation, removal and overhaul (required).

Oh yeah...everyone understands these need to be overhauled once in a while...with new shock oil right?!

No gain...no pain :D
 
Oh yeah...everyone understands these need to be overhauled once in a while...with new shock oil right?!

No gain...no pain :D

Yup, that is the issue with them here "jumpin shocks!" Unfortunately people except that they will never have issues with them because of price. We inform anyone that buys high end shocks that with the added performance comes a certain amount of maintenance and hands on.

One of the huge issues are leaks and how they are dealt with in warrantee etc. We tell everyone if you want a put on and forget suspension, these are not for you.
 
Static height: 20 5/8"
Full droop: 25 1/4"

The TC arm is very close at full droop.

So with longer front shocks you sacrifice compression. What's better - more droop or more compression?
 
Just received my ICON shocks

Do you think there's a leak?

How do I verify if there is a leak?

Is it safe to install?

2014-03-01


2014-03-01


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2014-03-01


Cheers
 

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