Icon shocks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stevopike
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can't wait to hear results and poser shots!! I'm saving and really considering dropping some major coin on this set up...that being Autocrafts AUS specced custom long travel slinky kit including custom valved ICON remote resi's with CDC...lots and lots of hard earned dollars though. Not enough feedback and pics for the 100. I don't doubt their quality but it would be nice to hear some used in anger/action!
Cheers!
perrobravo
SILVER Star
Just installed 2.5" remote reservoir fronts on my '03 with SPC UCAs. Haven't fully tested yet, but here are some pictures of the install and a few early observations.
On delivery.
See that hole in the box right below the Icon logo? that's from the threaded portion of the shock tower. Gave me a bit of grief getting the nut to thread correctly, but wasn't a show stopper. If I were Icon's shipping guy, i'd put something between those threads and the box.
Wait for it…
...but don't wait for instructions. There aren't any in the box or on Icon's site (at least based on my search over there).
Ahhhh!
Not precise, but here's a side by side length measurement, in this case between the 2.5"s and OME Sports
On the passenger side there was a place to bolt the reservoir bracket using provided hardware, but on the driver's side, had to drill a hole and put a nut on the backside (using my own hardware) to mount the bracket. YMMV.
Before, the OME shock appeared to be limiting droop, which measured ~24.25" (center of hub to fender lip). It is tough to see in this picture, but here is the gap between the SPC upper control arm and the UCA mounting bracket.
Now, with Icon shock in place, droop appears to be limited by the UCA hitting the UCA mounting bracket (as pictured below). Droop now is ~24.5", a hair more than with the OME shocks.
All done. Took a bit longer than expected since I had to drill a bit and because I spent 30 minutes trying to thread the nut on the shock tower…part due to the threads getting banged up in transit and part because the bushings took some muscle to compress to the point that I could get the nut to grab.
Before even leaving the driveway, it became apparent I'd need to adjust the position of the reservoirs. Even on flat ground when the wheel is fully cranked, the tires rub (BFG AT, 275/70-18). Odd, since I "think" I mounted the reservoirs exactly where they were in the pictures earlier in this thread. Advice anyone?
On the road/dirt, the initial feel is super-smooth! The front end is far less harsh and much more controlled both over bumps and when turning, both at high speeds and when moving slowly. Because of the reservoir rubbing, I didn't push it on the first test, so will report back after a more thorough trail test.
So far so good!
On delivery.
See that hole in the box right below the Icon logo? that's from the threaded portion of the shock tower. Gave me a bit of grief getting the nut to thread correctly, but wasn't a show stopper. If I were Icon's shipping guy, i'd put something between those threads and the box.
Wait for it…
...but don't wait for instructions. There aren't any in the box or on Icon's site (at least based on my search over there).
Ahhhh!
Not precise, but here's a side by side length measurement, in this case between the 2.5"s and OME Sports
On the passenger side there was a place to bolt the reservoir bracket using provided hardware, but on the driver's side, had to drill a hole and put a nut on the backside (using my own hardware) to mount the bracket. YMMV.
Before, the OME shock appeared to be limiting droop, which measured ~24.25" (center of hub to fender lip). It is tough to see in this picture, but here is the gap between the SPC upper control arm and the UCA mounting bracket.
Now, with Icon shock in place, droop appears to be limited by the UCA hitting the UCA mounting bracket (as pictured below). Droop now is ~24.5", a hair more than with the OME shocks.
All done. Took a bit longer than expected since I had to drill a bit and because I spent 30 minutes trying to thread the nut on the shock tower…part due to the threads getting banged up in transit and part because the bushings took some muscle to compress to the point that I could get the nut to grab.
Before even leaving the driveway, it became apparent I'd need to adjust the position of the reservoirs. Even on flat ground when the wheel is fully cranked, the tires rub (BFG AT, 275/70-18). Odd, since I "think" I mounted the reservoirs exactly where they were in the pictures earlier in this thread. Advice anyone?
On the road/dirt, the initial feel is super-smooth! The front end is far less harsh and much more controlled both over bumps and when turning, both at high speeds and when moving slowly. Because of the reservoir rubbing, I didn't push it on the first test, so will report back after a more thorough trail test.
So far so good!
As soon as i saw the pic of where the reservoir was mounted, I was going to ask you about this. That mount looks very much like the mount that metal tech provided for the first set of radflo shocks. I kept rubbing that resi body. I had to bend the mount and finally, it wouldn't rub. Keep us posted. Did you also order the rear shocks? Were these the CDC shocks?
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Yep, those look fairly similar to the mounts that Radflo supplied. I couldn't get them to work. Radflo then came up with a different style that ended up working. Also, if you are running a different rim, tire/tire size, spacers or no spacers that the truck Icon used for testing, you may have some additional tweaks to do.
Never had success in that location. Horrible bracket design and location IMHO. But, some have had success and perhaps you will too. As blue mentioned there are a ton of variables that will affect it. I run my Radflo's on the frame rails using a bracket made for 4runners. Zero problems since going that route. I know the Kings remote was a larger diameter and didn't work on the frame....
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
I had no problems with rubbing in that location, I'm running a 285/75/16 KM2.
took the Icons out yesterday, spent the day flying down dirt roads, washboards and technical trails. I probably hit some tails way faster than I should have but the Icon 2.5 never missed a beat and rode so so smooth.
took the Icons out yesterday, spent the day flying down dirt roads, washboards and technical trails. I probably hit some tails way faster than I should have but the Icon 2.5 never missed a beat and rode so so smooth.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
But do you have the same wheels? Do you have spacers? Did you adjust your turn stops? There are quite a few factors to compare when trying to figure out why something works on one rig and not another.
perrobravo
SILVER Star
I have Tundra steelies (same specs as OEM 18" wheels as far as I know), no spacers, no body lift, didn't do any adjusting of the turn stops, and have the front lifted to about 21.5" from center of hub to fender lip.
Am going to try mounting then along the frame in front of the wheels, but eyeballing it doesn't give me a ton of confidence. The hose length looks like it will limit how far forward and out of the way I can get the reservoirs. Their large diameter won't help, at least in this regard.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
IIRC, the Tundra wheels fit the 100s, but are not the same offset/backspacing as the 100 series wheels.
perrobravo
SILVER Star
Update: Tapped existing holes on the frame ahead of the wheels and mounted the reservoirs there. On my driveway, neither side rubs. Not sure this location will work without clearance issues when compressed, but it is certainly better.
Driver:
Passenger:
However, I may have discovered a separate problem. Seems both sides rub the frame on the inner front edge when the opposite tire is compressed. Pictures taken with the opposite wheel heading up a pile of dirt (if that makes sense). The tires don't hit the reservoir (at this angle), but certainly look like they could…maybe an inch of clearance.
Driver rubbing:
Passenger rubbing:
After installing the SPC control arms a week or so ago, I went in for an alignment that didn't go well (long story involving an incompetent "technician"). Maybe something got tweaked that is now causing rubbing? There was absolutely no rubbing on the front before. Same wheels and tires have been on for more than a year and through every possible suspension position.
I'll head to a competent alignment shop this week to at least take that variable out and try to eliminate the rubbing on the frame. Maybe that'll help resolve the potential rubbing issues with the reservoirs.
bluecruiser, I was under the impression the Tundra wheels had the same offset/backspacing as the OEM wheels, but I'll do some research to confirm. Since I've never had any issues until now, and because I don't want to change wheels, I'll keep my fingers cross that there's something else going on.
Driver:
Passenger:
However, I may have discovered a separate problem. Seems both sides rub the frame on the inner front edge when the opposite tire is compressed. Pictures taken with the opposite wheel heading up a pile of dirt (if that makes sense). The tires don't hit the reservoir (at this angle), but certainly look like they could…maybe an inch of clearance.
Driver rubbing:
Passenger rubbing:
After installing the SPC control arms a week or so ago, I went in for an alignment that didn't go well (long story involving an incompetent "technician"). Maybe something got tweaked that is now causing rubbing? There was absolutely no rubbing on the front before. Same wheels and tires have been on for more than a year and through every possible suspension position.
I'll head to a competent alignment shop this week to at least take that variable out and try to eliminate the rubbing on the frame. Maybe that'll help resolve the potential rubbing issues with the reservoirs.
bluecruiser, I was under the impression the Tundra wheels had the same offset/backspacing as the OEM wheels, but I'll do some research to confirm. Since I've never had any issues until now, and because I don't want to change wheels, I'll keep my fingers cross that there's something else going on.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Looks like a possible turn stop issue. Verify that they are there. Maybe the bad tech messed with them. Seems like every time I adjust mine, one would fall out. I now use threadlock on them. With my OEM steel tundra wheels, I ended up needing the 10mm (Spressomon recommended) spacers to make things work with reservoirs. I'm pretty sure I still get some rubbing in very rare situations, but I'm not messing with it any more. Good luck figuring it out, I know it can be frustrating.
Please tell me you're not driving around with your upper control arm mounts acting as your droop stops. I too measured 24.5" of droop when my SPC arms hit the control arm mounts. For me, droop was reduced to 23.75" after bolting in my Fox shocks (which limit the droop travel).
Please tell me you're not driving around with your upper control arm mounts acting as your droop stops. I too measured 24.5" of droop when my SPC arms hit the control arm mounts. For me, droop was reduced to 23.75" after bolting in my Fox shocks (which limit the droop travel).
Pretty sure this was the reason that carl said these were designed around his UCA (JT's), and should only be used with those UCA.
as far as fixing that issue, I would grind out the bottom portion that the SPC UCA is hitting. the shock should be acting as the droop limiter.
^ you're right: The shock should act as the droop limiter...
But best to check it so the ball joint doesn't take the hit...
It all gets back to cycling the suspension...and knowing full well where bottom and top out is and what stops each. Sorry to sound like a broken record but...
But best to check it so the ball joint doesn't take the hit...
It all gets back to cycling the suspension...and knowing full well where bottom and top out is and what stops each. Sorry to sound like a broken record but...
The Tundra rims have a deeper offset than the 100 series, therefore you will have rubbing issues with the reservoir. When I originally came up with the reservoir mount for the Radflo's I had them mounted the same way as Icon with zero problems (customer had factory rims). You will need to run a spacer to push the tire away from your frame and reservoir.
On a FJ Cruiser/4Runner/Tacoma set up the reservoirs are mounted in a similar location up near the UCA with no rubbing issues.
FYI: I ran extended shocks upfront and didn't realize the upper ball joint was the limiting factor. A few months go by and the ball joint was trashed. It had 1/4" of play and created some interesting driving characteristics. I would not allow the ball joint to stop down travel. I assume the LBJ will stretch the socket when extended past the service angle.
Here is my UCA play after I removed them.
Here is my UCA play after I removed them.
I think there might have been some other factors there, how old we're your ball joints? I figure this thread wouldn't matter to those that don't wheel hard, and otherwise keep to the roads.
