ICON lift users, how is the ride? (1 Viewer)

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I got the stage 2 kit with OME 2721 springs in the back and SPC upper control arms.

My review was based on the non-adjustable suspension - it's great. Once I get more advanced I'll add the adjusting capabilities later when it's time to rebuild the system.
 
All great info for you newb's.
Happy holidays!
 
I run them too. Details of my setup are in my build thread in my signature below. Front end is Tundra conversion with700# springs and rear are OME 2723 springs.
 
As I just posted in the BP-51 thread, I'm having some noise issues with that suspension. So, approaching the build for my wife's '16 LC I planned on Icon Stage 4's to be done at a different shop, because 4 Wheel Parts does not carry Icons.

After getting getting the quote, the shop informed me that they wouldn't take on the job. Reason: They recently installed a set on an LC 200 and ran into issues with the KDSS resulting in a costly repair which they ate, and having to put all of the original suspension back on the customer's ride. It didn't have anything to do with the Icons.

So, now I have a high level problem. Bummer.
 
As I just posted in the BP-51 thread, I'm having some noise issues with that suspension. So, approaching the build for my wife's '16 LC I planned on Icon Stage 4's to be done at a different shop, because 4 Wheel Parts does not carry Icons.

After getting getting the quote, the shop informed me that they wouldn't take on the job. Reason: They recently installed a set on an LC 200 and ran into issues with the KDSS resulting in a costly repair which they ate, and having to put all of the original suspension back on the customer's ride. It didn't have anything to do with the Icons.

So, now I have a high level problem. Bummer.

Sounds like they didn't get the memo about only turning the KDSS release valve three turns. They likely loosened too far...sprayed 600psi oil all over the place and had no way to re-pressuriize it... Toyota probably charged them a mint to fix it, and now they're intimidated.

If you have your suspension done at all...be sure to instruct them about KDSS. Loosen the screws EXACTLY 3 turns and no more...and all will be fine.
 
As I just posted in the BP-51 thread, I'm having some noise issues with that suspension. So, approaching the build for my wife's '16 LC I planned on Icon Stage 4's to be done at a different shop, because 4 Wheel Parts does not carry Icons.

After getting getting the quote, the shop informed me that they wouldn't take on the job. Reason: They recently installed a set on an LC 200 and ran into issues with the KDSS resulting in a costly repair which they ate, and having to put all of the original suspension back on the customer's ride. It didn't have anything to do with the Icons.

So, now I have a high level problem. Bummer.

Wherever you take your rig for install...make sure you show them THIS PDF FILE (see attached file from ARB).
 

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4 Wheel Parts did a great job re-leveling, and knew exactly how to tweak the KDSS. So, just before making the deposit at the other shop I asked "are you SURE you know how to deal with it," and that's when the memories returned :)

Anyway, was really looking forward to trying the Icons. may have to travel to get it done.
 
4 Wheel Parts did a great job re-leveling, and knew exactly how to tweak the KDSS. So, just before making the deposit at the other shop I asked "are you SURE you know how to deal with it," and that's when the memories returned :)

Anyway, was really looking forward to trying the Icons. may have to travel to get it done.

If you already have BP-51's, ARB will send you a brand new updated set that improves the noise according to critics...and save you about $4K before you buy another set. Also... Be sure the noises you are attributing to your BPs are REALLY from them. You can often have noisy upper control arms, and other squeaks that have nothing to do with the shocks.
 
10MM
12MM
14MM
17MM
19MM
21MM
39MM
5MM Hex
Needle Nose/Wire Cutters
Pry Bar
Jack and Jack Stands
Makers Mark

That's all you need for a DIY suspension swap. It's a lovely experience too.

When you gonna do a walk-through video of that with just those tools? ;)
 
I was thinking of making one when I did my suspension. I can't remember why I didn't. This guy covers it though.


I'm gonna call BS at 1:36 into the video: If you didn't loosen the LCA bolts, you are not going to just use a little screwdriver to push the LCA down, especially when you go to put in the longer aftermarket strut. You could also do it, very carefully, with a large pry bar (which you can see in the background at 1:55), but then your LCA bushing would not be at rest at the new, lifted position (i.e. you still should loosen them and retighten once the weight is back on the suspension).
 
That's the only issue I have with the video. The rest is fairly (mostly) accurate.

I had a hell of a time getting the lower strut into the LCA without loosening some extra bits than what was addressed in the video. I'm not sure what (if anything) he left out of the video, like the LCA bolts, but somehow it slid right in for this dude.

He did make the rear look like a cakewalk but I had to resort to taking a sawzall to the rear strut due to siezed upper mount bolts.
 
Timbrens are required if you plan on running 35s or larger, regardless of using the Tundra conversion.

I ran into no issues running 285/75/17 tires with the Tundra set up.
I would recommend longer bump stops, if for nothing else to keep the coils from binding up at full compression. Timbrens may be the top of the line, but the Tundra guys are having good luck with much cheaper energy suspension bushings.

Back to the OP: One of the benefits of going with the wider Tundra arms, is the clearance from the sway bars and KDSS components.
Anytime you modify your vehicle there will be trade offs. Stick with cruiser parts and deal with clearing the sway bars, trimming the wheel wells and limited offset wheels.
go full Tundra and you clear the sway bars, but now are somewhat limited in wheel selection and width unless you are willing to have your tires sticking out past the fenders.

Everyone that has done the Tundra conversion has loved the way it turned out. It is more labor, and more parts, but if you are going to drop a couple thousand dollars on a lift, why not add 700 to it and get a wider track width, a little more travel, and more availability of spare parts.
luckily nothing has broken yet, but I know I have a better chance finding Tundra parts than cruiser...

How do I order Tundra kit for $700 more? Is it from an Icon dealer? Does that include CDCV resorvoirs? I want to do 35-37s on my second RW set. Will I be able to swap wheels/tires easily?
 
The tundra swap requires upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends, and cv axles.
I sourced the parts from Craigslist and eBay over the course of a couple months. I had more time than money...
With those parts, just order the tundra front coilovers, with or without the cdc valves. I don't have them. Would be nice, but again, more money.

35s look good, but add a level of effort to maintain performance. Braking is affected, acceleration is diminished without gearing.
285/75 17 is about the best size without going wild....
 
Love the ride, incredibly composed and sure footed compared to stock. Well worth the money.
 
When I upgrade my suspension, my magnificent mechanical skills will allow me to do it using only two tools: a telephone and a credit card.
 
Thanks
Love the ride, incredibly composed and sure footed compared to stock. Well worth the money.

Do you think the CDCVs are worth it for street use? Andrew at Icon said no and now I am all confused. I am usually very picky about ride. Want to catch the sale this weekend CDCV or not ($1000 extra than stage 1).
 
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