I want to burn metal with FIRE!

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If you mean the ESAB..
Cause the ESAB was setup to run gas when I got it.
I prefer not having to clean off slag.
The ESAB does not weld outside. (big reason)
And I get plenty of penetration without going to flux-core.

Actually, I am contemplating going with a dual-shield wire in the ESAB for the weld quality. That is using flux-core wire with gas...

Also, I have a roll of .035 flux core wire sitting on the ESAB just in case I run out of gas on a Sunday and need to keep welding..

So your saying its not your first choice for 4x4/automotive fabrication and garage work, but it does have a few special uses.
:clap:


I recommend a plain ol 220V mig welder with a bottle for a noob to use once in a while.

Who knows maybe the guy likes chippin slag out in the wind. :cheers:
 
Everything has it's place.

All I was saying is that flux core is not only for tweekers welding a scooter back together..
 
I love my Millermatic 211. I would have liked to gone bigger but my garage currently does not have 230v The Miller 211 machine can run on 120v or 230v. Gives you some room to grow.

you think its cool on 120v....try it on 220v...its a whole new machine.
we have some at work, and i decided i could set my game up at home. its a great little blue box.
 
stick with a lincoln/miller lines, 240v models, you'll be fine.

in terms of technique....night schools and the local jr. collage should have a welding class available. a great place to learn and ask questions. ultimately, its practice,practice,practice!
 
I have a Snap-On Muscle Mig 140
MM140SL, Welder, "Muscle Mig" Wire Feed

Its 120V but is 100% duty cycle and does 1/4in in a single pass
and it TIGs too

I would not own one. Too much money for what you get and good luck finding consumables.

Don't think you could do 1/4" in a single pass at 140 amps with solid mig wire.
 
I get consumables from the same place I got the welder.
Yeah it was expensive but compare it to Miller or Lincoln with 100% duty cycle then buy a tig to go with it.
It does single pass on 1/4 with soid core just fine.
Miller doesn't even have a 140 or lower that has 100% duty cycle. Miller - MIG Welders - 1-Phase
But say I buy a 252 at $2200
and a Diversion 165 for $1300
I am now at $3500 and do not have the support that comes with the Snap-on and I spent
$500 more
 
3k for a 120v machine:eek:
the duty cycle only comes into play when running the unit at full wick.
i've got a 1k blue box that runs 120 or 220v mig.
another 1.5k will get me another blue box that runs tig or stick on whatever voltage i feed it.
i'll stick with the blue boxes.
 
But say I buy a 252 at $2200
and a Diversion 165 for $1300
I am now at $3500 and do not have the support that comes with the Snap-on and I spent $500 more

You also have a MIG that will do 1/2" instead of 1/4" and I notice that the TIG kit for the Snap-on is another $612 and it is only DC.

So you're $200 under the $3700 that the Snap-on equipment cost, can do over 1/4" with MIG, can do aluminum TIG since you have both AC and DC TIG, and you have the support that comes with Miller equipment... ;)
 
I paid nothing for my TIG and dont weld aluminum so I dont see the down side of DC. I sold a 251 before i bought this and I am happier with the Snap- On. I bought it because I am currently stuck in Rental hell until my house in NV sells so the 120V is a good thing and so is the integral TIG. But thats just me.
 
Quick shot of my rig.....
Cruiser1008.webp
 
if you get a stick welder, get a ac/dc welder. A/C welding is good for heavy machinery that might have static build-up issues, like farm equipment.

d/c is a bit easier to weld with and what you will use more often, on a daily bases.

All mig welders are d/c.

I use a stick, but almost everyone uses wire-feed welders these days.

If you get a smaller unit, you can make multiple passes to get heavier welds completed. Not ideal when you are in a hurry, but it is an option.



good luck..
 

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