That would move the tire further out, just like my 2 inch backspacing, the more I find out about this the more I think backspace change has a lot to do with who can run 35's with little or no rubbing and who can't.
I want 35's...
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That would move the tire further out, just like my 2 inch backspacing, the more I find out about this the more I think backspace change has a lot to do with who can run 35's with little or no rubbing and who can't.
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I have 35s in a sua suspension. 4" maf /ome lift, 3.65" bs on a 16x8" wheel. No rub.
Agreed. I have an 87 FJ60 waiting to do a manual swap when this A440 dies. In the mean time I'm trying to baby the tranny.
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Btw I also have 2" drop on my front bumps. I had the same Suspension with 35s on a 15x10" rim with a different BS and it rubbed.
FJ62 gears with stock 4spd and a v8....it is not a dog.
FJ62 gears with stock 4spd and a v8....it is not a dog.
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Sounds like new rims with correct backspacing and a body lift might do it. I plan in regearing in the future, but I was under the impression the stock gearing could turn 35's...
Back to the question of need...maybe I don't NEED 35's, but this is not a dd, I use it for wheeling. I'd like to do rubicon and figured 33's wouldn't cut it. But maybe they will? If I lock it front and rear I know that will help but won't another inch of tire help also? Right now I'm on 33x10.5, maybe moving wider would help...
Thanks again this is valuable information!
Back to the question of need...maybe I don't NEED 35's, but this is not a dd, I use it for wheeling. I'd like to do rubicon and figured 33's wouldn't cut it. But maybe they will? If I lock it front and rear I know that will help but won't another inch of tire help also? Right now I'm on 33x10.5, maybe moving wider would help...
Thanks again this is valuable information!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
So what you're seeing is that the tires are the easy part. Your gearing is already way wrong-remember the 62 came with 28 inch tires. That will cause more slippage of your Torque Converter, more heat, and a shorter life. The gearing is way inadequate for 35s.
If you goal is Rubicon, extra lift is good, lockers are good, gearing will be essential. I would do 4.88s or 5.29s with ARBs, then get your tires. Unfortunately there isn't a cheap way to do this.
33s are very borderline for Rubicon. I've done it on 33s, 35s and 37s. 35 are good, 37s are better. 33s were tough. For a 62 on the Rubicon you need everything from tires and gears to body armor.
One other thing to consider is that the 4.11s you have now would work better combined with a manual transmission and 33s 4.11 and an H42 or SM465 is a pretty good combo for wheeling. Just food for thought.
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At some point I'll do an H55 swap for my auto, if I do that will regearing still be necessary?
I have longer shackles already, how much of a body lift will be necessary to clear 35's with correct backspacing and without trimming?
I have longer shackles already, how much of a body lift will be necessary to clear 35's with correct backspacing and without trimming?
Yes re-gearing even with a H55F will help. 4.88 probably the way to go but check out some gear calculators / rpm and tires size charts just to make sure the gears you get will work with your auto and your manual when you switch over so you are not re-gearing your diffs twice. Also ask a lot of people which will work and drive some other tucks with correct gearing if possible.
If your 4.10 R&P are still in good shape you may be able to get a few bucks for them to off set the cost of new gears.
A narrower tire may help reduce rear tire rub also. You may consider something like a 35x11.5 tire or even a 35x10.5 tire if they make one. I know super swamper use to and I think still makes a 34x9.5x15, and they are bad ass looking on a 60 series. This may be a good compromise. A little taller tire but you may not need any more lift because it is a little less tall and narrow.
They also make a Q78 swamper that I think is 35-36" and narrower like 11" I think. (some one correct me here if I am wrong) So that may be another tire option.
Here is a couple cool cruisers from mud members with the 34x9.5 swampers on them.
It is a can of worms you are opening with one thing leading to the next. I think most people would agree you will probably get more wheel-ability with gears and lockers than slightly larger tires. I think I would do gears and lockers first, then body armor, and do the larger tires last.
If your 4.10 R&P are still in good shape you may be able to get a few bucks for them to off set the cost of new gears.
A narrower tire may help reduce rear tire rub also. You may consider something like a 35x11.5 tire or even a 35x10.5 tire if they make one. I know super swamper use to and I think still makes a 34x9.5x15, and they are bad ass looking on a 60 series. This may be a good compromise. A little taller tire but you may not need any more lift because it is a little less tall and narrow.
They also make a Q78 swamper that I think is 35-36" and narrower like 11" I think. (some one correct me here if I am wrong) So that may be another tire option.
Here is a couple cool cruisers from mud members with the 34x9.5 swampers on them.
It is a can of worms you are opening with one thing leading to the next. I think most people would agree you will probably get more wheel-ability with gears and lockers than slightly larger tires. I think I would do gears and lockers first, then body armor, and do the larger tires last.
If you are interested, I'd consider swapping you my worn, but functional stock springs from my 88 fj62 so you can go SOA for your SOR springs.
All in all, I'd agree with the last statements that you'll be more off-road worthy with proper gearing and lockers than just with bigger tires, but we all have our reasons for doing what we want to do.
All in all, I'd agree with the last statements that you'll be more off-road worthy with proper gearing and lockers than just with bigger tires, but we all have our reasons for doing what we want to do.
I've got 315 on my 85 fj60, 2" OME suspension, 1 1/2 spacers front and back. It's not so much the slight rub I get that bothers me, its the lack of articulation. I got all four 315 and four 80series wheels for $500 so I couldn't pass it up. I am going to put 33's back on eventually or put a 2" body lift on.
Oh and the 315 rub on the leaf springs
Gearing is essential. Gearing should be foremost in your plans if you want to do well on the Rubicon. Or anything similar. Budget for gears before you buy an SOA.
Gearing will get you through more spots than lift, lockers or armor. My humble opinion as always.
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I have 12" shocks in front and 10" in the rear. My truck flexes well for sua, especially in the front. If I did it again I would go 12"shocks in the rear. See my build thread for pics of flex. I agree about gearing but myself I don't want to sacrifice top end cruising speed. For the Rubicon or trails of this nature.....I would be concerned about the low belly with the t-case hanging below frame rails. Smack that on a rock and you are not going to be stoked!
worshhim said:
The bolts on shackle that holds springs together on front side, just the edge of tread on tires
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Thanks. Well it seems to me that 4.88's are the way to go so I don't have to change again when I put H55 in.
With regard to lockers, can I pull a 3rd from an 80 series with an e-locker and install into my axel. Or can I put a whole FF axel from 80 under my 62?
With regard to lockers, can I pull a 3rd from an 80 series with an e-locker and install into my axel. Or can I put a whole FF axel from 80 under my 62?
these are track measurements but I think they are the same as WMS measurements. I did a lot of searching and track measurements seem to match wms measurements.
FJ40/45/55 front and rear 55.3"
FJ60/62 front /rear - 58.5 / 57.9"
FJ80/FZJ80 front / rear - 62.8 / 63"
As far as I could find out the Full floaters for the same models will be the same track/wms width. (ie. fj60 semi-float = fj60 FF)
I did a bunch of searching and have a good list going. I may try to post a chart in hops of making it into the FAQ.
FJ40/45/55 front and rear 55.3"
FJ60/62 front /rear - 58.5 / 57.9"
FJ80/FZJ80 front / rear - 62.8 / 63"
As far as I could find out the Full floaters for the same models will be the same track/wms width. (ie. fj60 semi-float = fj60 FF)
I did a bunch of searching and have a good list going. I may try to post a chart in hops of making it into the FAQ.
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