- Thread starter
- #21
Solid wisdom. I took the old one off and started to clean up the exterior of it only to discover a pinhole leak.
Any recommendations on where I should source a new one?
I turned FJ40 today
- Thread starter jtmosca
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Any recommendations on where I should source a new one?
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Operators standing by
I sell them, you could also buy from your local dealership if you don't want to pay shipping, which is very understandable.
I also keep the level senders, gasket, filler neck hose, proper size fuel hose and OEM clamps, the cloth-braided vent hose, pumps, filters etc etc all in stock.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Matt offers a pretty significant easy button option but if shipping is prohibitive don’t forget about Phil Stetson at Vann York in HP.
- Thread starter
- #24
This distributor is in rough shape. The vacuum advance was capped off and the internal rotation is seized up. Tons of debris in the bottom of it. I can feel grinding when I spin it…
Check out the metal shavings I’ve dug outta there.
Check out the metal shavings I’ve dug outta there.
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That’s a shame, that’s the desirable 78-79 electric pickup version.
- Thread starter
- #26
Plugs from rear to front.
- Thread starter
- #27
I’m open to recommendations
Used OEM appears to be $300+. Any solid aftermarket options?
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- #28
jfz80
Cruisin’
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- #30
That would awesome! In the meantime I have cleaned it up internally and freed up the inner bearing that rotates when the vacuum advance activates (assuming it activates). I also freed up the springs and added some missing e-clips. The main shaft doesn’t seem to have noticeable play up or down or side to side. However with only mild pressure upwards from the bottom the scraping nearly goes away. I’ve reinstalled it so that I can move it around the parking lot but it is definitely at the end of it’s 50 yr useful life. Sheesh, it only lasted 50 yrs…
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Do not put the cheap Chinese dizzy in your truck. They are usually not the correct height and don’t properly engage the oil pump gear.
New OEM points distributors are available for about $300. That is what I would recommend. It will last your lifetime. You would need a appropriate ballast resistor for it. Another option would be a used +8/80 big cap dizzy which would work with your ignitor, but you would need to change the pushrod cover on the block to accommodate.
New OEM points distributors are available for about $300. That is what I would recommend. It will last your lifetime. You would need a appropriate ballast resistor for it. Another option would be a used +8/80 big cap dizzy which would work with your ignitor, but you would need to change the pushrod cover on the block to accommodate.
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- #32
Well it appears that I have disrupted a very delicate ecosystem underneath the hood. I cannot seem to get the old girl to start now. I assumed that since everything was in a deplorable state, but running, then by taking things apart and cleaning them up then it should run slightly better (or at least no worse then before).
Thus far, I can see fuel in the carb site glass but don’t see spark when I pull the #1 plug.
In the meantime I have done the following:
- replaced the plugs
- replaced the dist cap
- replaced the rotor button
- double checked the timing flywheel mark-to-TDC-to-Cylinder #1 rotor positon
- cleaned and put back together the distributor. (Freed up the vacuum advance bearing)
- cleaned and improved the coil wiring removing unnecessary splices and cleaning ground contact points
My guess is that the distributor is no longer viable on any level.
I open to any suggestions while I contemplate dizzy replacements. The one that is in there was used in the late model 40s and FJ60s. It is part# 19100-61102
Thanks!
Thus far, I can see fuel in the carb site glass but don’t see spark when I pull the #1 plug.
In the meantime I have done the following:
- replaced the plugs
- replaced the dist cap
- replaced the rotor button
- double checked the timing flywheel mark-to-TDC-to-Cylinder #1 rotor positon
- cleaned and put back together the distributor. (Freed up the vacuum advance bearing)
- cleaned and improved the coil wiring removing unnecessary splices and cleaning ground contact points
My guess is that the distributor is no longer viable on any level.
I open to any suggestions while I contemplate dizzy replacements. The one that is in there was used in the late model 40s and FJ60s. It is part# 19100-61102
Thanks!
Last edited:
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- #34
Well good news! Either everyone was collectively praying for me or simply the act of posting on this forum has magical mechanical powers that defy space and time.
In all seriousness I've been fighting with this 'no-start' situation for a few days. Earlier today I cleaned up the coil and wiring and I was sure that this was going to be the solution. As I mentioned previously it did not seem to help and when I looked for spark I saw nothing.
However only hours after my last post I went back out to the 40 to show it to a friend and just out of formality I turned the key (I didn't ever bother pulling the choke out). Much to my surprise it gave me a reluctant sputter. After a 2nd attempt it gave me a half-dead rough idle, but didn't stall. Little by little it smoothed out but still didn't sound great.
The dizzy was in approx. the same position it was in when I removed it. It was rotated counter-clockwise to almost 85-90% of it's range. As it was idling I slowly rotated it clockwise (20%) and the idle began to sound worse. As I rotated it back past it's original position to the maximum counter-clockwise position the idle improved. If I understand correctly I essentially advanced the timing when I rotated it counter-clockwise right? I am a little surprised that I have to put the dizzy at it's furthest setting for it to idle/run decent. It makes me wonder if I'm one tooth off somehow...(?)
I haven't driven it under load yet so I'm interested to see what it does then. When I first got it weeks ago it would backfire and stumble if I stayed in the higher rpms too long. I've wondered if that was due to the vacuum advance bearing being rusted and seized up in one spot...?
Anyhow, I'm happy it is at least running. I'm open to any additional insights or suggestions. Thanks!
In all seriousness I've been fighting with this 'no-start' situation for a few days. Earlier today I cleaned up the coil and wiring and I was sure that this was going to be the solution. As I mentioned previously it did not seem to help and when I looked for spark I saw nothing.
However only hours after my last post I went back out to the 40 to show it to a friend and just out of formality I turned the key (I didn't ever bother pulling the choke out). Much to my surprise it gave me a reluctant sputter. After a 2nd attempt it gave me a half-dead rough idle, but didn't stall. Little by little it smoothed out but still didn't sound great.
The dizzy was in approx. the same position it was in when I removed it. It was rotated counter-clockwise to almost 85-90% of it's range. As it was idling I slowly rotated it clockwise (20%) and the idle began to sound worse. As I rotated it back past it's original position to the maximum counter-clockwise position the idle improved. If I understand correctly I essentially advanced the timing when I rotated it counter-clockwise right? I am a little surprised that I have to put the dizzy at it's furthest setting for it to idle/run decent. It makes me wonder if I'm one tooth off somehow...(?)
I haven't driven it under load yet so I'm interested to see what it does then. When I first got it weeks ago it would backfire and stumble if I stayed in the higher rpms too long. I've wondered if that was due to the vacuum advance bearing being rusted and seized up in one spot...?
Anyhow, I'm happy it is at least running. I'm open to any additional insights or suggestions. Thanks!
There is an electronic pickup in that dizzy. Did you change the gap in the pick-up when you disassembled it? I use a feeler gauge to set mine at .008 when I have them apart. The outer port on that dizzy is for the high altitude compensator. If you aren't using yours, it will be fine capped-off. You can test the function of your vacuum diaphram by attaching a vacuum diaphram hose to it and sucking on the hose with your mouth. This works for inner and outer ports. Pull some suction. When you let off, you should hear a click inside the distributor. Another way to check is to do the same thing, but with the distributor cap off. When you pull vacuum, you should see the internals of the distributor move. When you let off, they will move back. If your diaphram is not functioning, you'll have to source a new distributor, as the diaphrams are NLA. Last thing...be careful when you install / uninstall the distributor. It is very easy to make a mistake and not fully engage the oil pump with the distributor shaft. Always check that you have oil pressure when you have uninstalled and reinstalled the distributor. This has killed way too many 2Fs.
I will add one more thing. Your distributor is missing the stop pin bushing which is a little nylon sleeve that slides onto the stop pin. The bushing prevents the dizzy from over-advancing. Probably the least of your worries at this point, but important in the grand scheme of things in order to have a properly operating dizzy. I have had success with using an aluminum bushing from the hardware, drilling it out ever so slightly and tapping it onto the pin. Once you verify that this dizzy is a keeper, you'll want to install that bushing.There is an electronic pickup in that dizzy. Did you change the gap in the pick-up when you disassembled it? I use a feeler gauge to set mine at .008 when I have them apart. The outer port on that dizzy is for the high altitude compensator. If you aren't using yours, it will be fine capped-off. You can test the function of your vacuum diaphram by attaching a vacuum diaphram hose to it and sucking on the hose with your mouth. This works for inner and outer ports. Pull some suction. When you let off, you should hear a click inside the distributor. Another way to check is to do the same thing, but with the distributor cap off. When you pull vacuum, you should see the internals of the distributor move. When you let off, they will move back. If your diaphram is not functioning, you'll have to source a new distributor, as the diaphrams are NLA. Last thing...be careful when you install / uninstall the distributor. It is very easy to make a mistake and not fully engage the oil pump with the distributor shaft. Always check that you have oil pressure when you have uninstalled and reinstalled the distributor. This has killed way too many 2Fs.
- Thread starter
- #37
This is great info. Thank you!
Thanks again for the advice!
I didn't intentionally change the gap that was there but perhaps I could have inadvertently somehow. When I removed the pickup I left it attached to the race. In my mind, when I reinstalled it (still attached to the race in it's original position), the gap would be the same. Nevertheless, I should probably find a gauge and doublecheck the gap.
I eventually figured that out.
Cool, I'm gonna try this to see if it's working or not.
Warning duly noted. Fortunately, I can confirm that I'm getting good oil pressure. During the multiples re-installs I have been making sure that the entire housing is fully inserted into the engine by confirming that the fixed timing flange that is attached to the outer casing is completely seated on the block when I tighten the timing bolt.
I spotted the nylon bushing in some other pictures and posts. If this distributor decides to live a little longer I think I'll try the same fix you described with the aluminum bushing.
Thanks again for the advice!
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- #38
I borrowed a timing light. It is set to 12degrees and running great now!
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- #39
So yesterday I drove it to O’Reilly’s and decided to check / replace the fuses. In the picture below is a diagram of what theoretically should be in each fuse location and what size fuse should be there. I have labeled off to the side what I actually found in there when I checked them. Some looked corroded so I changed them all and attempted to installed the “correct” size fuse as well.
Interestingly enough after swapping them out the old girl didn’t seem to want to start. After a number of attempts I decided to swap out the new 15A for the original 30A in the “engine” spot. In other words put it back the way I found it. After a few more try’s it fired back up. I have since left it that way.
I’m somewhat puzzled by that. Any thoughts / input is appreciated.
Interestingly enough after swapping them out the old girl didn’t seem to want to start. After a number of attempts I decided to swap out the new 15A for the original 30A in the “engine” spot. In other words put it back the way I found it. After a few more try’s it fired back up. I have since left it that way.
I’m somewhat puzzled by that. Any thoughts / input is appreciated.
Clean your contacts...the little metal "clips" that hold the fuses and try again with the correct fuses. You may have simply seated the new fuses onto a corroded spot on the contacts. I like to use a wire brush on a dremel to knock off the corrosion. The brush I use is intended to clean the barrel of a .22, but any small wire brush will do.
