I just kneecapped the choke knob on our 84 FJ60 and broke the plastic retaining nut. (2 Viewers)

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So I just stepped into the cab of our 84 FJ60 and my knee hit and broke the plastic retaining nut/washer holding it into the dash. Trying to figure out how to detach and fix. Thoughts?

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I just installed a sniper and no longer need a choke lever. Let me know if you need one.

Cheers, James
 
Loosen set screw on knob, unscrew knob. Unscrew retainer then pull cable thru dash from the backside. I bought the cable assembly from Matt years ago....PO had completely removed the choke!😬
 
I just installed a sniper and no longer need a choke lever. Let me know if you need one.

Cheers, James


that is a Early plastic tipped threads one , ?

the 2nd Gen, FJ60 has a METAL tip and there NOT interchangeable

if that IS a metal threaded Tip one ?

you have larger issues here , that no human knee caused ?

i have never seen or heard of human handed contact or a knee breaking a later metal tipped FJ60 ?


i have seen many of the early ALL plastic ones snap off all sorts of reasons ?

cold , heat , knee , binding yes ....


reason i bring up BOTH types is you say u have a 1984 ?


should be a metal one ?


i am not sure if a person pulled out a metal tipped one the could snap off the threaded tip ?


maybe ?

- lastly : what are ALL the paint Chips and ALL around the choke knob D groove metal dash HOLE from and how and what caused them ?

this is a RED FLAG to me here ...........⛳


those are the facts of my experience here ..........


hope it helps ?




matt
 
I mis-spoke, it is metal and there is a screw-driver sized slot on the threaded washer. Perhaps the two have swollen and shrunk together so many times that they are partially fused together. Since it's already broken I may just gently cut away the broken nut. Mechanically everything works fine if I remove the fuse cover and unscrew the fuse panel and slide my fingers underneath to hold it in pressure against the dash mount. If I can get the broken nut off and let it dangle in the air it will be fine until the replacement (which was available on ebay for about $15) arrives.

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I’m doing a V8 swap and have one lying around too if you need it.

You’re probably going to need to replace it because the only way you can get that broken nut off is to going to be to cut the cable or something. Unless you can unthread the nut off of the broken thread.
 
Solved. See pics.

The culprit really was the plastic threaded washer bushing inside the outside aluminum nut. I could not get them unscrewed for the life of me so I bought another 14032 and cut the old one off. Pretty hard core effort just to get to a plastic washer and even then I had a hard time cutting it off. Next time anybody looks at the youtube video where you just unscrew this in like five seconds don't believe them.

Definitely DO NOT CUT YOUR CABLE to solve this problem. You'll just end up with two problems instead of one.

Peace, Love and FJ60s.

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Solved. See pics.

The culprit really was the plastic threaded washer bushing inside the outside aluminum nut. I could not get them unscrewed for the life of me so I bought another 14032 and cut the old one off. Pretty hard core effort just to get to a plastic washer and even then I had a hard time cutting it off. Next time anybody looks at the youtube video where you just unscrew this in like five seconds don't believe them.

Definitely DO NOT CUT YOUR CABLE to solve this problem. You'll just end up with two problems instead of one.

Peace, Love and FJ60s.

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what happen to the chunk of cross-threaded black nylon media that was stuck inside the old 14032 ?

.

where is the new 14032 now incorporated in your field repair job above ...


i like your never give up mindset approach ..... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:


matt
 

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